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Dual Master Kits?

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Old 05-10-2024, 01:56 PM
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Freakinhobo
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Default Dual Master Kits?

65 SB with no power brakes. I would like to add a dual master for safety reasons and wanted to see what folks use for kits. Looking for the most simple quality replacement.

Thanks!
Old 05-10-2024, 03:45 PM
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Nowhere Man
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65-66 came with a dual m/c when ordered with power brakes. so you can add that but those m/c are not cheap. the easiest thing to do is use all 67 parts. lone star calipers is great place to buy from
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Old 05-10-2024, 04:12 PM
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larebob
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If I was the original poster, I'd want to know

Do I need to drill the firewall?
Do I need special lines or size adapters?
How about the pedal?
In other words, a complete kit and problem areas. I know from intercooler kits and the like, that most, if not all "kits" are not complete and often need hard to source addition parts. What is EVERYTHING needed - in other words a complete kit, so you don't need to re do the whole car and you can get it back on the road. I think he'd like to know "Yea, get the such and such kit from "this guy" and you're ggod to go."
Old 05-10-2024, 08:07 PM
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Factoid
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Any MC/booster for a 65-67 C2 is a true bolt in. Yes, the booster braces have to be drilled, but that is very easy.
Old 05-10-2024, 09:27 PM
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Vitaminmopar
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Forget the 67 brake line plumbing, use the 65-66 version. You do not need the pressure differential switch of the 67 version and your 65 does not have wiring provision for it. I would also forgo any kit having stainless steel lines. Do use the 67 style 1" inch bore master cylinder. If you are also adding power brakes then as Factoid stated the firewall reinforcement plate will need to be added but you do not need to rivet it to the firewall as the bolts will retain it. Apply some adhesive to the plate to hold it to the firewall if you think you will remove the booster sometime on the future. Since you have a 65 the factory rear brake line is routed across the top of the driver's side frame rail. You will have to decide if splicing into the existing line or rerouting the line makes sense to you. A bunch of C2 owners have done this. This link as a reference add power brakes
Old 05-11-2024, 07:59 AM
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gbvette62
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It's not quite clear to me from your original post, but are you interested in converting to dual master and adding power brakes, or just converting your single reservoir master to a non assisted dual reservoir master? Also, I assume you're not interested in removing the body to do the conversion?

If all you want to do is convert what you have to a non assisted dual master then it's a pretty straight forward mod with a kit available from Lonestar, or most Corvette parts companies. Lonestar's kit LS599 comes with everything you need to convert a 65-66 to a non power dual reservoir master cylinder, including two-piece front to rear brake line so you don't need to lift the body to install the line.

If you want to convert to a dual master and add power brakes, again without lifting the body, then Lonestar's kit LS521 comes with the correct lines to use with power brakes. You have to buy the booster separate because the kit is designed for use by both people who already have power brakes or those wanting to convert to power when upgrading the master. Besides the booster, to convert to power brakes you'll also need a vacuum fitting for your intake, and a vacuum hose to connect it to the booster. While not impossible, the toughest part of adding power brakes is probably drilling the holes in the firewall to mount the booster.

Both of the above kits use the 67-82 style master cylinder.

There is a third option if you want your 65 to remain 100% stock, original appearing, converting to the 65 power brake and stock dual reservoir system, but this gets very expensive and requires lifting the body. Where the conversion kits using the 67-82 master only run a few hundred dollars (and another $300 to make it power), the 65 master cylinder alone runs about $900, plus another $500 or so for the lines, clips, booster, etc. And of course to do a stock conversion you'll need to lift the body to replace the stock one piece front to rear brake line.
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Old 05-11-2024, 10:30 AM
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Freakinhobo
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Originally Posted by gbvette62
It's not quite clear to me from your original post, but are you interested in converting to dual master and adding power brakes, or just converting your single reservoir master to a non assisted dual reservoir master? Also, I assume you're not interested in removing the body to do the conversion?

If all you want to do is convert what you have to a non assisted dual master then it's a pretty straight forward mod with a kit available from Lonestar, or most Corvette parts companies. Lonestar's kit LS599 comes with everything you need to convert a 65-66 to a non power dual reservoir master cylinder, including two-piece front to rear brake line so you don't need to lift the body to install the line.

If you want to convert to a dual master and add power brakes, again without lifting the body, then Lonestar's kit LS521 comes with the correct lines to use with power brakes. You have to buy the booster separate because the kit is designed for use by both people who already have power brakes or those wanting to convert to power when upgrading the master. Besides the booster, to convert to power brakes you'll also need a vacuum fitting for your intake, and a vacuum hose to connect it to the booster. While not impossible, the toughest part of adding power brakes is probably drilling the holes in the firewall to mount the booster.

Both of the above kits use the 67-82 style master cylinder.

There is a third option if you want your 65 to remain 100% stock, original appearing, converting to the 65 power brake and stock dual reservoir system, but this gets very expensive and requires lifting the body. Where the conversion kits using the 67-82 master only run a few hundred dollars (and another $300 to make it power), the 65 master cylinder alone runs about $900, plus another $500 or so for the lines, clips, booster, etc. And of course to do a stock conversion you'll need to lift the body to replace the stock one piece front to rear brake line.
I actually do not want power. I was hoping there would be an easy bolt in "just replace the master" kit, but I forgot the in and outs of this car. I used to post here all the time and essentially did a frame on with a crate motor back in 2008-9. But I've forgotten a lot of it over the years and have not even driven it. Looks like I have a little research to do... it's currently at a shop getting running again and was going to have them throw the kit on.
Old 05-11-2024, 10:33 AM
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With proper maintenance you don't need to swap parts. Which is a whole lot cheaper and less time consuming. Just food for thought
Old 05-11-2024, 11:07 AM
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orlandjoe
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Zip Corvette has the dual master kit manual brakes.
I installed it many years ago on a 66.
Old 05-16-2024, 04:46 PM
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Skip Fix
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Figure the 67 is a dual-and most aftermarket kits for almost all vehicles are copies. Drepnds how original you want lines to look. T the front and add an adjustable prop valve in the rear to fine tune it.
Old 05-16-2024, 07:20 PM
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polo91
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It has already been stated, but make sure it is a one-inch bore. Some replacements are 1 1/4 and you absolutely can't lock up the wheels even with power brakes.
Old 05-16-2024, 07:34 PM
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jim lockwood
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Originally Posted by Skip Fix
Figure the 67 is a dual-and most aftermarket kits for almost all vehicles are copies. Drepnds how original you want lines to look. T the front and add an adjustable prop valve in the rear to fine tune it.
The correct F/R proportioning is already engineered into the calipers if they are original.
Old 05-17-2024, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jim lockwood
The correct F/R proportioning is already engineered into the calipers if they are original.
But technically different sized tires, spring rates and driving styles can need a little fine tweaking as changes what the factory designed in. I thought there was even a factory adjustable prop valve on some brake systems. Guldstrand used to sell them put one on my 78 Trans Am as even the factory combination valve would lock up rears in a hard braking turn. Stiffer front springs helped the "brake dive" unloading rear some .

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