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My guess is someone stripped it and used a longer bolt.
Doesn’t look like high tensile, but if it’s been like that for 15 years (while not pretty) it’s probably fine.
It won’t be a quick (or easy) fix either.
Last edited by anyChevy; Jul 22, 2024 at 02:44 AM.
Yes, it bolts from above - that’s the reason the crossmember has to come out to drop the differential. Possibly the cover can be repaired with a Helicoils or similar but replacing a cover is an option and not that expensive. Good luck with the overhaul.
yes a through hole from a previous repair. You might want to look under the carpet in the over the diff to see if someone cut the floorboard to access the bolt. Common thing to do back in the day. The cross member is dented you might want to see if there is any other impacted areas. The cover has a date code on it, I think that started in 67, I can't see it clear enough to tell the date but it might not be the original diff in the car. If the axles are standard so check the end play now, over 025" I would be addressing it. I don't like 025" but for an otherwise stock diff it's ok, not good, ok. If you are rebuilding the diff or replacing the axles you want end play between 005-007" up to 010" max.
You might want to look under the carpet in the over the diff to see if someone cut the floorboard to access the bolt. Common thing to do back in the day. The cross member is dented you might want to see if there is any other impacted areas.
It’s not the original diff, and there’s evidence of a fiberglass repair in the jack storage area. My guess is that a half shaft broke off and damaged the fiberglass and dented the crossmember.
No evidence of a hole cut in the floorboard.
Any advice on how to tackle all this rust other than a wire wheel and manual labor? Is this something the trendy new “dry ice” detailing can knock off?
Did Bubba mount my diff?
