[C1] Ignition Switch
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Pro
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Team Owner
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From: Kannapolis NC
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Race Director
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C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
To the OP: If you don't need the key to move the switch out of the LOCK position, then yes, something is wrong.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2020
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IF you need or want to get a new switch I would recommend spending the extra money and get a genuine OEM switch. During my rebuild I got it into my head to replace my ignition switch "because it was old and ---"while I am in here....." The Delco OEM was 85.00 the repro was abut 35.00. A while later I started having a mysterious Parasitic drain problem in my 62 which wold periodically result in a dead battery for no apparent reason. We eventually discovered that the "replacement" switch was bad. Even with the switch off, locked and key removed, there was still pwer going through the switch into the harness. I re-installed my original switch and the problem went away.
During my searchin for the probelm I was speaking to a frine that had a similar problem with his 57 Cevy and he said he went through SEVEN Repro switches that all had the same issue as mine and the problem only went away when he went OEM.
Evidently, this is a known problem with a LOT of repro items.
Eddie
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Really Central IL Illinois
The lock cylinder can be rebuilt. If you have an old time locksmith around, they can do it in less than 15 minutes. I have had a few apart to rekey them, but I am far from a pro and it takes a few efforts to get it right. You may just have stuck or collapsed springs behind the pins or the pins may be worn along with the key. If you can get the code off of the cylinder, you can have a new key cut and it may cure your problem.
I assume you can turn the cylinder counterclockwise past the LOCK position to remove the cylinder?
I assume you can turn the cylinder counterclockwise past the LOCK position to remove the cylinder?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 468
Likes: 155
I've had my car for 8 years. Since day one the ignition turns on w/o a key. I considered replacement but it stays positive in place at all times & never created an electrical issue. If I didn't always have it within sight & the car is stored in an alarmed garage I'd certainly replace the switch and install ignition cutoff.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2022
Posts: 468
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From: Maryland
Sent you a PM.
The key will come out in the run position, not the accessory position. Make sure the key is all the way in when you start the car and especially when you shut everything down . If the key is a little bit out when you turn the car off, the key will not go to the full off lock position. When fully off, don't keep left pressure on the key when you try to remove it. Do not try to remove key when it is in the first detent or accessory position, it will not / should not come out... Pull the key out in full off position with a lose grip. Let it seek it's own position then pull it out.
These switches are finicky and noted for doing what you are talking about, starting without a key... But recheck yours to make sure it is all the way in the off position and see what happens.
The key will come out in the run position, not the accessory position. Make sure the key is all the way in when you start the car and especially when you shut everything down . If the key is a little bit out when you turn the car off, the key will not go to the full off lock position. When fully off, don't keep left pressure on the key when you try to remove it. Do not try to remove key when it is in the first detent or accessory position, it will not / should not come out... Pull the key out in full off position with a lose grip. Let it seek it's own position then pull it out.
These switches are finicky and noted for doing what you are talking about, starting without a key... But recheck yours to make sure it is all the way in the off position and see what happens.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 962
Likes: 357
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 962
Likes: 357