Convertible Top Adjustment
thanks for your help!!
[Modified by Kid_Again, 6:18 PM 2/3/2003]
Welcome to the forum! :seeya
Yes tops will shrink when not stretched...put up. You should never store or leave the top down for any extended period of time. That said...now how do you fix yours? I would get the top very hot....good 100degree summer day..and get it latched in the back and slowly weight to top front to stretch it back out. It might just work....other than that the top must be replaced.
It might stretch out. If not, call Al Knoch :) Chuck
Adjustment of the top on a C1 can really be a lot of "trial & error"! First off, I won't pretend to be an expert, but have gone through the process.
If you have the ST-12 manual, it will give you the basics. If not, please get one from one of the many suppliers (Corvette Central has them for sure).
Since the top is in such good shape, it is possible that it was installed incorrectly and never will fit! I doubt that, since any competant installer would of verified his work (wouldn't he????????????? - mine didn't, so there is always that possibility).
The following is the method I found useful.
Start with attaching the top to the windshield header, and clamping them in place (but do not attach the rear hold-downs), and then loosening the outer plate nuts that support the pivot plates (not the inboard plates - leave that for later fine tuning).
Now raise or lower the outboard plates so that the top weatherstriping is at the correct hgt. for the side windows (assuming that the window adjustments are correct to begin with), and also move these plates fore or aft so that the top is "tight", and then tighten the nuts. This is the initial position to see if the rear clamps can now be clamped in place. If not, then readjust these outboard plates as necessary (probably several times!). The inboard plates are adjusted to ensure that the side weatherstriping and bow does not form a "V", but is straight across to match the top of the side windows.
Note that when folding or unfolding the top during this process, it can contact the catch mechanism on the raised deck lid, if the top position is incorrect (check this each time before blindly folding the top across this catch and doing damage to the top!).
There is also adjustments on the top itself for the front header location, but that is normally only adjusted when the top material has been removed.
I am sure that others on the forum can give you more info as needed.
Good luck,
[Modified by Plasticman, 6:08 PM 2/3/2003]
They give me some good ideas. I will try the stretching bit this summer, when the weather warms up. I will play with the adjustments some more this weekend. I have read in some other forum topics about a video on installing a new top. Would this be any good for my problem? If so where can I purchase this video? What about getting someone locally that installs or repairs newer cars tops? Would they have the expertice? I really appreciate your feedback.... once again thanks. :hurray:
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I have to disagree (mildly). Per my earlier post, my installer did install the new top that would not latch at the back (no way, no how!), and poorly at the front! I ended up doing the readjustments myself, rather than have him try when he did not know how, and had no inclination to fix it properly. The top fits great, and was a bear to readjust, but I am very happy with it (now). It was a great learning experience. And frankly, I welcome those (as long as the end result is worth the effort).
Plasticman
Plasticman.... When you finally got yours to fit, was it all in the adjustments of the pivot points or was it some stretching as well?
BLACKJACK JIM... :auto:
Since it was a new top, no stretching was required. It was just way out of adjustment! This is a Haartz Sunbrella material top (canvas type material - same as on the newer Vettes, and used on boats as well) which is not as prone to shrinking as is the vinyl. Note that before giving the Vette to the installer, I had marked and removed the top bows, header, plates, etc. so that I could refinish them. Also replaced all of the hardware so that it would pivot smoothly & look "new". I reassembled it back in approx. the same locations, but am sure it was not in the exact same place. However, the front header did latch smoothly and the rear bow mated to the rear deck & attachment points, and the upper side plates (over the side windows) were straight and level - not forming a "V"). Then, I wrapped each bow in towels, and folded them into the top area for driving over to his shop (of course it had to rain on my way over!). He stated later that he had to realign the top bows/plates quite a bit before attaching the top straps & material (we also replaced all of the weatherstriping). However, like I said, when we attempted to put the top up at his shop, it would not attach at the rear latches and we had to give the front header some help to get the pins to go into the windshield header. He said that I should leave it out in the sun, and they would then latch. This did not sound right, since the top had only been attached the day before! We went round and round, and finally I said I would try his "sun" idea, and if it did not work, I would be back. I also know that he was under the gun to get some other work done for other customers, so I know that influenced him. As I said earlier, I eventually readjusted it myself, and am glad I did.
I also replaced the windshield weatherstrip later, and found the 2 windshield side posts were broken at the mounts (fairly common from what I am told). When I had this repaired, now the top position was off again. So back to the adjustment process. In other words, if your going to do any work on your windshield, do it before adjusting the top!
In your case, I don't doubt that your top has shrunk. So take it easy, and see if it can be attached by streching with the application of some heat. But some adjustments certainly can be made to help. Just lowering the outboard plates will help the rear attachments. Note that there are also vertical adjustments on the rear wire mounts on the inside of the rear bow that will help to some degree. Lowering the outboard plates however, has it limits, since too low, and the side windows will catch the top when closing the doors (when the windows are up).
Good luck,
Plasticman
[Modified by Plasticman, 4:02 PM 2/5/2003]
2 things come to mind.
#1. The window angle can be adjusted (for how much they lean in or out, plus the min./max. vertical adjustments), and is covered in the ST-12 manual (page 1-14).
#2. Try a light coating of Silicone spray lube on the weatherstrip. It will help preserve the weatherstrip and provide a slicker surface for the windows to slide against.
Note that the various top adjustments "may" affect the windows, and therefore the windows may need to be readjusted as needed, once the top is in the correct position. Don't try to adjust the top for a side window adjustment problem.
Plasticman
[Modified by Plasticman, 11:10 PM 2/5/2003]
...here's my perspective, strictly as someone who has yet to fart around with the top mechanism (but i will soon enough)....one day i got the bright idea of removing the front soft top female bayonnet mounts attached to the top of the windshield trim.....unscrewed easily and i polished the mounts, cleaned up the screws and, with a song in my heart, i went to re-install them and realized that, for one screw, i couldn't grab the blind nut found inside the frame :banghead: ...well, to make this short, the inside blind nut had fallen out before, bubba somehow put a much smaller nut in, got lucky once and i get screwed so i had to manufacture a nut plate from mild steel stock, open the frame a bit to fit that in (small inspection holes were there from the factory) and I then had to split open the inside of the frame to grab the nut plate and finally got it all back together but i had the ENTIRE interior garnish removed to get this done.. a full day JUST to do that...
regarding the video on removing/installing the soft top, a forumite was kind enough to loan me the tape and, i have to tell you, it just shows common sense...you will get as good, if not better, advice from the forum guys who have done this in the past...NO special tools are required beyond an electric or pneumatic stapler - just be careful that you note everything about how you disassemble the soft top
good luck!
Adjustment of the top on a C1 can really be a lot of "trial & error"! First off, I won't pretend to be an expert, but have gone through the process.
If you have the ST-12 manual, it will give you the basics. If not, please get one from one of the many suppliers (Corvette Central has them for sure).
Since the top is in such good shape, it is possible that it was installed incorrectly and never will fit! I doubt that, since any competant installer would of verified his work (wouldn't he????????????? - mine didn't, so there is always that possibility).
The following is the method I found useful.
Start with attaching the top to the windshield header, and clamping them in place (but do not attach the rear hold-downs), and then loosening the outer plate nuts that support the pivot plates (not the inboard plates - leave that for later fine tuning).
Now raise or lower the outboard plates so that the top weatherstriping is at the correct hgt. for the side windows (assuming that the window adjustments are correct to begin with), and also move these plates fore or aft so that the top is "tight", and then tighten the nuts. This is the initial position to see if the rear clamps can now be clamped in place. If not, then readjust these outboard plates as necessary (probably several times!). The inboard plates are adjusted to ensure that the side weatherstriping and bow does not form a "V", but is straight across to match the top of the side windows.
Note that when folding or unfolding the top during this process, it can contact the catch mechanism on the raised deck lid, if the top position is incorrect (check this each time before blindly folding the top across this catch and doing damage to the top!).
There is also adjustments on the top itself for the front header location, but that is normally only adjusted when the top material has been removed.
I am sure that others on the forum can give you more info as needed.
Good luck,
[Modified by Plasticman, 6:08 PM 2/3/2003]
Do you have pictures that show these adjustment parts? Inboard and Outboard plates????





















