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Dan - I have see survivor ncrs judged as impeccable top bow tie cars with completely faked main cases that because its a friends car were judged "perfect" bow tie. Worse the tires did not match BRAND side to side.
I added a picture of trans VIN at the beginning of this thread for easy comparison. It's a little difficult to get all sides and good pictures today without a lift at my disposal.
Do the two stampings look to match? Any sign of surface work on the trans?
Thank all!
Pete
Dan - I have see survivor ncrs judged as impeccable top bow tie cars with completely faked main cases that because its a friends car were judged "perfect" bow tie. Worse the tires did not match BRAND side to side.
I understand your point about the VIN stamp on the engine should show the same font characteristic as the transmission VIN stamp. That’s not a point I remember seeing discussed but I can definitely see the logic and how it could help authenticate a car and motor.
This forum has helped me in many ways and I am grateful to all of the participants.
I removed the paint from my 65-engine pad this morning to see what I’ve got. Looks good to me but I would appreciate any comments as to the stamping being original. All the other numbers on the engine are what they should be including the casting date and I have no reason to believe the pad stamp is counterfeit.
Photos of before and after paint removal.
Thank you in advance for your thoughts and opinions.
Pete
In my opinion your stamps look very typical.
Without having other same day stamps to compare to, I find it hard to see how anyone could question the originality of either your engine or transmission stamps.
I did some research on different engine pad stampings photos and found four others in the SN 14XXX range, all within a 3-week engine build date. two were consistent to my #14359 with the same font throughout and slightly raised 4, (fourth number from the right). Another one also had a slight raised (4) but had a poor or partial engine code stamping. And one did not have the raised (4) but was 313 from my baseline 14359.
I am not an expert on corvette engine pad stampings however during my professional working days I was a qualified inspector of military equipment concentrating on counterfeit parts, so somewhat qualified here.
For copyright and intellectual property rights I am not showing full pictures of the four other pads.
With the help of all contributors to this thread and my research I am 100% sure my stamped pad is authentic.
Attached is an example pad stamping with last digit masked out. Last digit masked out
Out of curiosity, is the cast date the date it was poured or the date it was removed from the mold? Molten iron takes a long time to cool and I find it hard to believe that a block could be accurately machined on the same day the mold was filled.
A lot of years passed between the time these engines were built, and the time anybody cared one whit (or even knew anything about, in most cases), deck stampings. I pulled the heads from plenty of engines back in those days when I was wrenching in a gas station, and I cared only about getting gasket surfaces clean enough to seal before bolting heads back on. Scuffing a stamp pad in the process was something I never even gave a thought to, and it would have seemed to me to be a ridiculous thing to worry about at that time if I ever had thought about it. The goal was to get the engine back together and the vehicle back out of the service bay as quickly as possible without causing a "come back." I can assure you that I was not exceptional. This was the norm. I saw guys using sandpaper, drill-mounted wire brushes, gasket scrapers, razor blades, etc, to clean all manner of gasket surfaces, and used each of those myself on various surfaces. Some of those practices inevitably left their footprints behind. Some of the more aggressive approaches could easily obscure broach marks.
-As far as transmission casting dates, look at the side pictures ( post 28 ) of the transmission. The 3 represents the 3rd month of the year, the three dots under the 3 represents the third week of that month. The number 8, represents the number of the casting mold. I think John Z. told me that there was thirteen molds as I remember. So after the casting was completed the assembly was followed days-weeks later. Thanks Mark
Out of curiosity, is the cast date the date it was poured or the date it was removed from the mold? Molten iron takes a long time to cool and I find it hard to believe that a block could be accurately machined on the same day the mold was filled.
The date has to be the day liquid iron was poured into the mold as it's an embossed set of characters.
