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So my ‘67 has an issue with opening the doors from the inside. Opening from outside with the push button doesn’t seem to have any problems.
I even replaced the pull/pivot on the drivers side, and didn’t notice any difference.
I have to yank the **** back pretty hard, and usually put my shoulder into the door. Passenger side requires more effort in the tank.
But I don’t notice any “sticking” when pulling from the outside. Doors also shut pretty well.
In researching, I found a few mentions and even videos that indicated the locking mechanism may be worn.
I though of picking up one of the rebuild kits, but I am not sure if this will work…
$42+ for the rebuild kit, versus $200 for a pair of new latches…. And now down time waiting for parts if the rebuild “ kit” doesn’t work…
now I know I have a 67, and they do not make repro latches, but I have heard that 63-66 latches will work, just that you will be able to open a locked door with just pulling the interior ****…. I am Okay with that …
so what’s the opinion, new latches a good choice? Or???
anone know if there is more than enough ne manufacturer?
I had the same problem, and repair kit did not help. After at least six attempts at remove/lube assemble, I found a solution. I wired two of the plates together, making the latch open like 66 (pull on open **** and door opens, even when Locked)
Doing this from phone while traveling. Hope it helps!
I had the same problem, and repair kit did not help. After at least six attempts at remove/lube assemble, I found a solution. I wired two of the plates together, making the latch open like 66 (pull on open **** and door opens, even when Locked)
Doing this from phone while traveling. Hope it helps!
Thanks…. Excellent information, I’ll give it a try.
Tony,
Before wiring it open, read the thread below from 2021. I think this is the best solution for your problem and it will function as it's supposed to. Be sure to read the entire thread, as there is an error early in the thread that is corrected further in. Let us know what you do and how it works out. Best with the project.
that goes appear to be an easier fix, although I am still confused the same as others in that thread; I though the first hole would add low s longer pull, and therefore help the situation…
that goes appear to be an easier fix, although I am still confused the same as others in that thread; I though the first hole would add low s longer pull, and therefore help the situation…
The hole to the left of the original hole is correct. The door pull **** is attached to the top of the mechanism. When you pull the door ****, it rotates the lever counter clockwise pulling the release rod with it. If it were in the right hole, it wouldn't pull as far. By putting the release rod in the left hole, it shortens the distance to pull. Hope this makes sense.
I tried that after reading the previous thread. I also adjusted and drilled out the lock **** holes. I installed new springs. Remember I had the door apart six times. Each time I thought it was fixed. Reinstalled door panel and thought I was good to go. But a few days later…..,
I can’t speak to your problem for sure. But mine was unique to 67 where those two plates are supposed to slide freely when door locked, and open door when it is unlocked.
Those plates must wear with age (although my car seems to be pretty low miles) and they just don’t slide, then lock up as designed. Each time I worked on mine I scrupulously cleaned and lubed. Once I wired them together I have had no problems. And I drive the car a lot.
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Door latch repair or replace
