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My steering shaft has been altered and so was the rag joint coupler. They used an oversized bolt and the old shaft had a groove cut in it to let the bolt pass through. The steering box was not altered and the bolts were forced through and it ruined the bolt threads. I used taps and dies to fresh up the threads, but the bolt will not go through without damaging the threads. I bought a new shaft and don't want to cut a groove for the oversized bolts.
Does anyone know the spline count and diameter of the original coupler? They don't make this part any longer and the price for used ones is between $400-$600. I see that some suppliers offer a Rag Joint-Steering Conversion that might work if I can determine the right one. Does anyone have this info handy? I'm going to see if I can find this out by calling some suppliers, but that doesn't always work. Thanks.
when you say steering shaft are you referencing the box splined input or the steering column? Both splined. Sounds like the input but maybe posting some pictures so I can look would help.
Here is what I'm dealing with. The bolt will not go through the coupler if the shaft is in place.
The shaft in the column did have a spot ground away to let one of the bolts pass through.The steering box shaft has not been altered, This coupler came off this box, but it will not go back on. When I removed it the threads were trashed, so I used my tap on the coupler and die on the bolts to fretting them up and they thread in smoothly. I think the last time this was installed the bolts were forced on the box side and then they ground a spot on the shaft to avoid ruining the bolt on that side.
The box input appears to be correct. You have a new column shaft I would compare the depth of the Flat to make sure it is milled deep enough. The rag flange holes may have been drilled in the wrong location originally.
The rag flanges are the same on each side of the rag. If they both slide on the box input and the pinch bolt screws in, then they are good and the new shaft is the issue. The flange holes are 3/8-24. The fact someone spotted the old shaft to get the bolt in seems the flange hole is suspect.
So, using the box as the reference check both sides of the rag on it.
there are few rag joints out there that look like they are correct but in fact the hole location is off just enough for the pinch bolt will not pass thru,
i still have one looks perfect fits the splines good but the pinch bolt will not go thru . You need to find a good used or reconditioned one
Bob
there are few rag joints out there that look like they are correct but in fact the hole location is off just enough for the pinch bolt will not pass thru,
i still have one looks perfect fits the splines good but the pinch bolt will not go thru . You need to find a good used or reconditioned one
Bob
I had a similar issue, probably not as bad as yours. What was done to fix the issue was to draw a flat file along the shaft where the splines blocked the bolt hole. This took a lot of trial fitting. File the part that blocks the hole, not the entire flat. You might have to wedge the coupler slot open to make easier to do the trial fitting. Also if you can count the number of splines showing in the hole work on filing to this point then work on getting the flat to clear. you could use a bench or hand grinder to do this but with caution. Think the shaft may have had the flat milled in the wrong place.
What is so strange is I removed this coupler and the only thing I did differently is freshen the threads. I'm thinking maybe the easiest way to solve this is to buy a complete new column w/tilt and replace everything including the rag joint. There isn't much left of the original parts on my car, so it won't hurt anything and just might be the smartest thing to do. Just the individual parts if sold on eBay should more than cover the cost of a new unit.
Rag Joint-Steering Conversion
