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In the process of collecting parts for my 64 300hp to upgrade to 365 hp specs. So far I have managed to get the correct heads, exhaust and intake manifolds, idler pulley, deep groove pulleys, 8” harmonic balancer, air breather tube, chrome handle dipstick and chrome oil filler tube, thermostat housing, air cleaner and aluminum valve covers. I know I still need the carb, fuel lines/filter, distributor shaft, cam, water pump and heat riser tube. Someone mentioned the larger oil pan and a timing chain cover. Do I need these as well? Anything else I am missing?
Yes for the larger 8" ballancer your need the correct timing cover. And be prepared to spend a bunch for one if you can even find one Also what about the cam and lifters
I am assuming that you are planning a COMPLETE engine rebuild from bare block. If so, I would use beefier aftermarket rods. Oil pump should have the high pressure spring to deliver 60+ psi at driving conditions. Also cam should include solid lifters, newer springs and pushrods and rockers........although the 365 car probably used the same factory springs as the 300. I believe rockers were a "hardened" variety with special "O" marking. But again, not certain of this.
Be careful not to use too thick of a head gasket and lose valuable compression ratio. The 365 cam needs all the help it can get for good street operation. Rearend ratio may also need to be a bit lower for good street performance.
You might be better suited to go for the 350 HP performance with less things to change and better street manners.
Thanks! I might be able to get an original NOS 30-30 cam but I’m not sure what would be best option as I have heard so many thoughts on a cam. I plan on using solid lifters at this point.
I am assuming that you are planning a COMPLETE engine rebuild from bare block. If so, I would use beefier aftermarket rods. Oil pump should have the high pressure spring to deliver 60+ psi at driving conditions. Also cam should include solid lifters, newer springs and pushrods and rockers........although the 365 car probably used the same factory springs as the 300. I believe rockers were a "hardened" variety with special "O" marking. But again, not certain of this.
Be careful not to use too thick of a head gasket and lose valuable compression ratio. The 365 cam needs all the help it can get for good street operation. Rearend ratio may also need to be a bit lower for good street performance.
You might be better suited to go for the 350 HP performance with less things to change and better street manners.
You’ll also need a new forged larger journal crankshaft, tachometer face for the 6500 redline, forged 11.25:1 CR pistons and rings, forged connecting rods, rebuild the distributor for correct timing curve, the correct vacuum advance can, higher tension points spring, new oil pressure gauge.
You’ll also need a new forged larger journal crankshaft, tachometer face for the 6500 redline, forged 11.25:1 CR pistons and rings, forged connecting rods, rebuild the distributor for correct timing curve, the correct vacuum advance can, higher tension points spring, new oil pressure gauge.
Just a couple of points of interest...... The '64 327 takes a small journal crank. Also, the rods in the engine are already forged.
That said, even though they are forged, the factory rods are known to be weak and should be replaced.
A lot of work to convert a std 327 to a L76 spec 365hp engine. Gotta go from hydraulic lifters to solid lifters. Duntov 30/30 cam. Camel hump large valve heads. Aluminum intake. Forged rods and internals. High compression pistons. 2818 Holley Carb. Large harmonic balancer. Not to mention all the acillary items like different fuel filter, aluminum valve covers, different breather tube, different air cleaner, it will be tough and very expensive.
A lot of work to convert a std 327 to a L76 spec 365hp engine. Gotta go from hydraulic lifters to solid lifters. Duntov 30/30 cam. Camel hump large valve heads. Aluminum intake. Forged rods and internals. High compression pistons. 2818 Holley Carb. Large harmonic balancer. Not to mention all the acillary items like different fuel filter, aluminum valve covers, different breather tube, different air cleaner, it will be tough and very expensive.
all he has to do with is heads he has now is have the machine shop open up the valves to 2.02
The heads I have already have the 2.02 valves and are at the machine shop as we speak! As far as expense goes, I agree, not cheap, but it’s really the only post-purchase expense I will have. The car is not matching numbers so figured why not bring it up to 365 specs or something close to it! I also want the stock look so a replacement crate motor is not an option for me. I really do appreciate all the advice and guidance and look forward to tracking down the needed parts!!
In my continued pursuit of getting everything I need, let’s talk oil pans. What are the opinions of really needing the larger oil pan with trap door? These are hard to find and when found demand large price tags unless they look like they have been bashed with a lump hammer! As stated in my first post, my goal is to bring my non matching numbers block from 300 to 365 specs or as close as possible in performance and appearance. So what gains will I be losing or what possible performance issues will I be facing if I keep the stock pan?
The trap door oil pans ensure that there's a pool of oil for the pump to draw from when there are spirited direction and forward motion changes going on. For the vast, vast majority of us and how we drive, they are not needed. Along the same lines, there is a crankshaft windage tray to minimize oil splash and misting from the crank spinning just above the oil. This is also not required.
Why else do I need?
