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My grandfather is working on rebuilding his 62 corvette. The old engine was shot so we found a replacement for it.
The block has the right casting numbers on it but I cannot for the life of me makes sense of the serial number. The decoders I found online don't match up with the numbers either. The person we bought it from only new that his uncle pulled it out of a wrecked corvette 20 years ago.
Are the numbers just nonsense?
They are 139459 FIO3TBR
Casting numbers are 3782870
Last edited by AUserNameToUse; Oct 20, 2024 at 08:49 PM.
Its bored 60 thousand oversized and the cylinders have some surface rust...
Everything else important looks good on it so we'll probably hone it and see if we can get it running.
It does have high compression pistons in it which my grandfather is excited for.
knowing what you just wrote I wouldn't put anther dime in that motor
He's an old machinist. He is going to take a crack at honing it and mic to check the tolerances.
We'll figure it out from there. He is tempted to sleeve the block if it's too out of wack.
Unless your worried about the high compression pistons in the over bored cylinders. It wouldn't be the first block to crack in that Corvette.
This was his racing car back in the day.
My grandfather is working on rebuilding his 62 corvette. The old engine was shot so we found a replacement for it.
Originally Posted by AUserNameToUse
Its bored 60 thousand oversized and the cylinders have some surface rust...
Everything else important looks good on it so we'll probably hone it and see if we can get it running.
Originally Posted by AUserNameToUse
I'll have to talk to him about it. He has had a pretty hard time finding block in our area so far.
How shot was the first engine compared to the rusty .060-over engine pictured? Unless it has a hole in the side, how much more work can be required than boring, sleeving, re-boring, and honing this one?
If you provide your general geographic location, you never know what one of us here may have a lead on.
How shot was the first engine compared to the rusty .060-over engine pictured? Unless it has a hole in the side, how much more work can be required than boring, sleeving, re-boring, and honing this one?
The previous had been bored 60 over then flooded in multiple storms and rusted significantly. Decent pits in the cylinder walls.
It needs helicoils on almost every important thread, sleeves for all cylinders (or bore to 80 over). Additionally, the bearing races for the crankshaft are questionable at best. Overall about 3k of work at the engine shop near us if it's even still salvagable.
I'm hoping we can just hone the surface rust away on this one and stay within tolerance. It won't need any more parts than he was already planning on buying if that's the case.
Originally Posted by 67:72
If you provide your general geographic location, you never know what one of us here may have a lead on.
I'll probably post around if this rusty engine doesn't work out.
The rest of the car is pretty rusty and the frame is substantially pitted so a rusty engine would fit right in lol.
I live in Salt Lake. On my local Facebook marketplace there are at least 5 small block engines for under a thousand, and a few for under 500. Not rusty. Rebuildable. It is the same most places I am sure.
You need to think about all the rust besides the bores. Lifter bores, cam bearings, mains, distributor hole. All the freeze plugs waiting to leak. Blocked oil and water passages. On and on.
And if you do get it running, all the rust that will be circulating.
Do yourself a favor and junk it. Start with something reasonable.
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Engine Identification Help
