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I see that others have had issues with tight 64 interior lock ***** and wondering if anyone has found a fix? I spent this afternoon taking off the passenger side door panel to make sure all crank mechanisms were lubed, including the door lock mechanism as it has not worked right since I purchased the car. Originally thought maybe just needed some lubricant! With panel off key works fine and freely spins the interior lock **** shaft as it should. Once the panel is back on, not so good! Hole for shaft was tight so I enlarged it a bit and cut away some of the foam under the vinyl where the **** goes, but still no way! Anyone have a trick or fix for this issue? That **** is so tight against the panel don’t see the key ever turning the interior ****?
Are you able to determine where the interference is coming from? If enlarging the hole didn't help, it seems the thickness of the panel itself might be the problem. Can you get something like a cup, just larger than the diameter of the inside lock, place it over the **** and have someone push in against the panel (pushing out toward the outside of the car) while you turn the key?
Are you able to determine where the interference is coming from? If enlarging the hole didn't help, it seems the thickness of the panel itself might be the problem. Can you get something like a cup, just larger than the diameter of the inside lock, place it over the **** and have someone push in against the panel (pushing out toward the outside of the car) while you turn the key?
looks like the **** is so tight against the panel that it will not turn because of the binding. I will try the cup idea!
This may be a dumb response, but do you have the plastic or nylon disk under the lock ****?
It didn’t at first and it was still too tight. I have tried it both ways, thinking maybe the disk would reduce the friction, but either way it seems the panel is too thick or that the shaft should be a bit longer to accommodate the thickness of the panel. It’s always the little **** that is so frustrating!
looks like the **** is so tight against the panel that it will not turn because of the binding. I will try the cup idea!
Of course all the cup will do is confirm what you are already suspecting. If so, maybe there is something you can cut or remove to adjust it. I don't have a panel handy - is there "stuffing" inside? Presumable plastic foam if there is. Remove panel and use tweezers to pull a bit of it out? Sorry no actual answers, just suggestions for you to consider.
Sorry about your frustrating problem as delt with a similar issue in my 66 on an unoriginal driver's door panel. Can't help with your problem, but was wondering if it is an original door panel? Good luck. Mark
Railroad man, certainly appreciate the advice! There is thin padding behind the vinyl, which I removed around the circumference of the ****. Unfortunately didn’t change anything. The cardboard base of the panel is probably thicker than the original which doesn’t help anything if the **** shaft is still the original length. I wonder if this was a problem with original panels? Maybe someone with original set up could chime in.
Alternatively, could the interior **** be aftermarket, and a bit thicker? If using a cup to compress the panel makes it work ok, maybe taking a couple thousandths off the part of the **** that faces the panel would help.
The little PITA's can drive you nuts at times! They (presumably) worked fine when brand new, but something isn't the same as it was 60 years ago.
The answer to your latest question is yes, the window cranks and vent window cranks are supposed to have plastic backplates.
For your original issue, I’ve just installed the door lock today on the passenger side of my ’63. I had the same issue that you are having. Like you, I’ve removed the foam and some of the cardboard, but I’ve also pushed the metal plate on the back of the panel a little (see picture). I used a one-inch socket on an extension and just tapped it a few times. I’m not sure if you have this metal plate or not. I was then able to attach the **** and plastic backplate. The **** is very tight to the panel, but I can use the key to unlock it.
Now, just to be clear, your door project was to lube all the door parts that were already assembled on the door for, maybe, a long time? Years? My door project was part of a complete car rebuilt. Meaning that I’ve completely disassembled the doors, cleaned, rebuilt and lubed all the appropriate parts. So, my point is that the **** on both of our panels may have the same tightness, but my key on my door can unlock the **** because all the parts are cleaned, rebuilt and lubed. Just a thought.
Thanks Gary! After I took the panel off and lubed up the lock assembly the key turned the interior **** easily, so I believe it’s definitely the panel. I will take mine off again and see what is backing the lock ****! While on the topic of *****, Can you please post a picture of your vent window crank gap between the spacer and panel?
Here is the vent window crank. It is not as tight as the lock ****. Note about the plastic part: The crank plastic part has a larger diameter than the lock ****.
64 interior lock *****
