[C2] C2 a arm initial alignment
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 35
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From: Bismarck ND
C2 a arm initial alignment
I have done a body off restoration on a 65 coupe. How many shims would you use and placement for the front a arms to get the car close for driving to the alignment shop?
Paul klemetson
Paul klemetson
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You record the thickness of the installed shims at each location before you remove the upper A-arms, and then put the same thickness shims back in the same location when you install them.
You do the same with with everything else that is fit with shims - body mounts, rear trailing arms, radiator support, doors. I probably left something out.
Duke
You do the same with with everything else that is fit with shims - body mounts, rear trailing arms, radiator support, doors. I probably left something out.
Duke
Last edited by SWCDuke; Nov 23, 2024 at 08:55 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 8,879
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From: Richardson Texas
You record the thickness of the installed shims at each location before you remove the upper A-arms, and then put the same thickness shims back in the same location when you install them.
You do with with everything that is fit with shims - body mounts, rear trailing arms, radiator support, doors. I probably left something out.
Duke
You do with with everything that is fit with shims - body mounts, rear trailing arms, radiator support, doors. I probably left something out.
Duke
It sounds like that horse has left the barn...restoration is done already.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,652
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From: Central Arkansas
Roll the car or frame on to as level a piece of pavement as you can find - at least from side to side.
Front End
Get the steering wheel centered and find a 4-5 ft straight edge (straight lumber or 4’ level). Lay the straight edge horizontally against the tire sidewall and look to see if it angles out or in towards the side of the body. Turn the tie rod sleeve until the level is as parallel to the side of the body as you can visually determine. Do the other side and tighten the tie rod sleeve clamps.
Then use a 6” level held vertical against the wheel rim and shim the upper a-arm until the level is reading vertical. It’s best to start shimming with a couple of shims in the rear first and then add additional shims at the front and back both until the wheel is vertical. That should ensure that you have a bet of positive caster. Tighten the a-arm bolts.
Rear end
Use the straightedge against the tire sidewall again to get the rear wheels parallel to the sides of the body and install shims on both sides of the trailing arm to fill the space solidly and snug up the trailing arm bolt. The last shim should take a bit of effort to push into place or even have to be lightly tapped in.
Use the 6” level again to adjust the rear tires to a vertical position by turning the eccentric bolt on the strut rod bracket. When vertical, tighten the nut on the eccentric bolt.
This will be less than perfect but should be good enough to slowly drive a few miles to an alignment shop to get it professionally aligned. If you have to go more than a few miles, on the front I would get two tape measures and measure the distance between the inner thread groove front and rear and tweak the tie rod sleeves until the rear dimension is about 1/8” greater between the 2 tires, than at the front. That will give a bit of toe in and as long as the front tires are vertical it should drive fine without scrubbing any inside or outside tire edges. Be sure all the suspension bolts are tight.
Front End
Get the steering wheel centered and find a 4-5 ft straight edge (straight lumber or 4’ level). Lay the straight edge horizontally against the tire sidewall and look to see if it angles out or in towards the side of the body. Turn the tie rod sleeve until the level is as parallel to the side of the body as you can visually determine. Do the other side and tighten the tie rod sleeve clamps.
Then use a 6” level held vertical against the wheel rim and shim the upper a-arm until the level is reading vertical. It’s best to start shimming with a couple of shims in the rear first and then add additional shims at the front and back both until the wheel is vertical. That should ensure that you have a bet of positive caster. Tighten the a-arm bolts.
Rear end
Use the straightedge against the tire sidewall again to get the rear wheels parallel to the sides of the body and install shims on both sides of the trailing arm to fill the space solidly and snug up the trailing arm bolt. The last shim should take a bit of effort to push into place or even have to be lightly tapped in.
Use the 6” level again to adjust the rear tires to a vertical position by turning the eccentric bolt on the strut rod bracket. When vertical, tighten the nut on the eccentric bolt.
This will be less than perfect but should be good enough to slowly drive a few miles to an alignment shop to get it professionally aligned. If you have to go more than a few miles, on the front I would get two tape measures and measure the distance between the inner thread groove front and rear and tweak the tie rod sleeves until the rear dimension is about 1/8” greater between the 2 tires, than at the front. That will give a bit of toe in and as long as the front tires are vertical it should drive fine without scrubbing any inside or outside tire edges. Be sure all the suspension bolts are tight.
Race Director
Joined: May 2000
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Yes, I know. I'm just being my old irascible self.
With all the distributor issues going on (and add the recent "oil thread") I'm about ready to jump off a cliff, screaming: I JUST CAN'T TAKE IT, ANYMORE.
Duke
