I think i have had the good fortune of finding a 1966 427. My current C2 194676S106157 was originally a 427. I bought it with a 350 in it and that needs a rebuild so ive been keeping my eye out (ten years) for a year correct motor. Obviously it wont be numbers matching but it will be close. Can anyone share any info or thoughts on this?

Casting number for 427 is 3869942 with a P underneath the casting number

Motor vin is 6110282.... T 1227 IL

Any comments welcome. Also perhaps you might suggest a carburator. Im not trying to win any races just best efficiency.

TIA

 

IL is a suffix code for a 427/390 from a Corvette . the Stock carb was a Holley 4160 585 CFM carb. I would be looking for a service dated correct carb

 

I just had my 427/390 rebuilt to factory specs and last week on the dyno the highest CFM recorded (using a 750 CFM Holley) was 514 @5400 rpm. The original oval-port heads and manifold definitely cut the air flow. Folks say the stock carb is too small for the engine, but if it total airflow stays below the rating I don't see how a larger carb is going to perform any better.

 

I'm GM spent many hours figuring this out But they also had to warranty that engine too

 

Seemz you may accidentally have an extra digit in the VIN... and does the block casting date correspond properly?

 

If its a 66 390hp motor it came with a 3370 holley carb , an original dated restored one are 2K and up
Bob

 

You can't tell us you had it on a dyno and not say how much power it made.

 

he did

 

The figure of 514 was CFM and not HP.

 

The stock 600 cfm carb is probably adequate for the car in stock configuration running the fuel available at the time, but only "just". If a person is going to do any sort of modifications, then they should probably consider more carburetor.

 

It made 375hp/460 torques. I was a little disappointed that it didn't hit 390, but it's a true restoration rebuild with stock everything -- except 0.030" overbore forged pistons instead of cast, but identical dome height & CCs -- factory-profile hydraulic lifter cam, steel shim head gaskets, stock valve diameters, small port heads & intake, etc.

Regardless, I'm looking forward to getting it back in the car and seeing if I can notice any difference from before. It was a virgin, untouched engine with ~70k miles, that had great acceleration and power, even with the 6-8 broken rings, one piston with broken ring lands, moderately worn cylinders, a camshaft that had some rounding to the lobes, etc. The old parts showed about 10-15% leak-down with the broken piston showing an 80% loss. I've known the engine had issues for many, many years; the rebuild was definitely in order!

 

Thanks for that information. I just had my 427 all gone through as well, mostly stock specs except for Howards roller cam. Mine wasn't running when I bought it so I"m really looking forward to seeing how it runs.

 

It could be just a fluke of their engine dyno or conservative timing for the break-in. That’s close enough it should be pretty healthy.

 

been there, done that....

95% of folks will get by just fine with a stock rebuild. I myself can't tell 375 HP from 425 HP by the seat of my pants. Each 10th of a second in the 1/4 mile will cost you bunches.
installing hop up parts merely raises the HP and torque Curve to a higher RPM range, which decreases longevity of the build.. and decreases streetability.

Its great to have a date correct engine and your investment would probably be somewhat of a lateral move. Maybe dollar for dollar but not a massive increase of marketability or price of the car.

one can find most all the date correct parts but if your are building piecemeal and paying someone to remove/replace/build and pay someone to do all the work it is $15K plus
to convert to BB theres a hundred things to do and buy.. all the way from bellhousing to radiator support to many parts in between. but since your car is originally a BB then some if these hundred might already be there.

a 550 CFM engine doesnt need a 850 CFM carb. it is only bragging rights.

now back to your questions. you said your car is #6157.. makes it a mid to 3rd week october 1965 build.
your 427 is stated as #10282 , makes it around a 1st/2nd week January 66 car, which agrees with a 12 27 build you stated. .
This is almost 3 months too late and would never be construed as possibly original. you would need a engine build early to mid october to match your car build date minus a couple weeks.
this would need to be correct long before any stamping considerations could be factored into the equation.
If you really want to do this, look for a september/ early october 65 block..
There's one that is close on EBAY right now. although every used part has a risk.

IMHO

 

Block Casting Date J 18 6

The stamped numbers on the passenger side front of the block are:

T 12 27 IL 6110282

Casting number on driver side rear of block is 3869942

 

Thanks for the info. My car that I will put this in was orginally a big block car. It has the tach radiator ect. I did find the date stamp on the starter side of the motor to be J 18 5.

 

Wouldn't VIN 194676S106157 equate to an approx November 18, 1965 build... and wouldn't an engine casting date of 'J 18 6' be for a 1967 model vehicle?
In any case, a T1227IL engine assembly date (Dec 27th), seemz too late for your car (even if the assembly date was 'J 18 5')... if you actually care about that aspect.

 

You do realize that the 390HP was a SAE Gross number where your engine was likely set up differently. Was your water pump attached? the alternator? Did you use the stock exhaust manifold? If yes to any of these, you did not test as these engines were tested when new.

 

my date stamp actually is J 18 5. Hard to read upside down lol