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Drove it to the muff shop yesterday to get the header collectors hooked up to the pipes. No issues at all with the CF II clutch, nice and quiet, very easy on the leg with no weights riding anything. :D If you remember I had an issue with the clutch rod on the '64. One year only aparently and on back order. Ordered the later year rod, it was longer by an inch or so, so I had to get the shorter bellcrank to clutch assy rod also. Lots of adjustment left. Works great if anyone with a 64 wants to do this.
Master Dave, I had the same problem as you with the worn fork to bell crank rod. Where did you order your rod from? I found one for my 64 that was the same length as the original at paragon. I'm wondering if maybe the original was wrong to start with, but I don't think it was. :confused:
Interesting that I am having the same bell crank rod problem with my 1960 C1. I am in the middle of a engine swap putting a ZZ4 crate motor with a 11" CFII clutch. Once I got it in and hooked up, the adjustment is max'ed and there is still about a half inch play in the the petal. I am working with my partsman to get a longer rod but it seems that he can only find one that is about a half inch longer (I would prefer 2 inches for future adjustment). He is sending me the longer rod anyhow and the adjusting piece off a 1st generation camaro thinking that this will get me the lenght I need. Any other suggestions?
I got the longer pedal to bellcrank rod from a '66/'67 if I remember correctly. I can find out for sure tomorrow if you want me to. I also had to get the corresponding shorter bellcrank to T.O. bearing arm from the same year car. The clutch pedal bracket and the bellcrank stayed the same. Strange. The old rods (64) were like yours, maxed to the last threat and I could do nothing except push the pedal into the carpet in order to shift. The clutch disc wasn't that worn out either. Now I have about 1.5" to 2" of threads left and the clutch releases perfectly, heck I actually had to loosen the adjustment up some so the pedal would release just before the half way point in the pedal travel and I still have an inch or so free play. The pedal pressure is much less also. The only thing I can think of at this point is that the fulcrum point of the bellcrank was changed and allowed for this easier pressure. I recommend it highly for the '64 and maybe the '63 or earlier vettes also.
Be carful here 71 zman. As I stated before in your other post, make sure your FLYWHEEL is for that ZZ4 motor.BAD VIBRATION can be had with wrong applications. And the clutch you have may assume you have the correct ZZ4 flywheel.......not a 1960 Corvette flywheel that was in the car at the beginning of your project.
For years, I have used GM parts with the engine in question. Every aftermarket product will work......but not as well as factory parts . I am talking about street application now. Racing is something all together different. Aftermarket clutches have a habit of lining up differently with the clutch linkages.
In the next couple weeks, we'll be doing a swap over from my stock-ish 327 and clutch to a 406 w/ a Centerforce DF clutch and 400 flywheel.
I've never done anything like this before so bare with me here... I purchased an adjustable pivot ball, but do you think I'll still run into the same issue you did? Should I buy the same parts as you and where did you get them?
By "the same issue" are you talking clutch rods? If so and yours are worn you may indeed have a problem finding one. I got my rods from Pacific Corvette 1-800-228-2857. Just called them. The clutch rods are for the 65-66 and the part #'s are in the AIM or you can get them from any vette source. GM changed these rods due to the bellcrank angle was off some causing too much pressure to be used. Mine works great with easy pressure and lots of adjustment is left. The old rod was at its limit of threads. Also the adjustable pivot ball is prolly a good idea. I however did not have an issue just using the stock pivot ball. Hope this helps.