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Morning. R all 327 s off set in the engine bay and why? My 65' convert engine is to the right(passenger) side 2". Is that standard ? Has my oval air filter top now cracked thru the hood!! Thanks.
Any thoughts on how i can fix my hole in the hood and stop from happening again? I know it was off set and i used clay to check clearance and thought (there was the problem) that i had enough space. Wrong.
I won’t pretend to know the actual engineering decisions behind the offset but doing so accomplishes several things. More driver leg and pedal room as Nowhere Man said. Places engine in better alignment with the rear axle pinion/yoke which is offset to maintain equal length half-shafts. Provides more room for the steering box placement.
My 2 cents, which is worth nothing, is that it was necessary for u-joint alignment and vibration control. If you read up on u-joints they work well for single-plane mis-alignments, but not in two-plane misalignments. Thus it was necessary to off-set the engine to align longitudinally with the pinion and yoke and let the driveshaft u-joints deal with just the vertical difference in the engine height and differential height. Again, I know virtually nothing of GM’s decisions.
Any thoughts on how i can fix my hole in the hood and stop from happening again? I know it was off set and i used clay to check clearance and thought (there was the problem) that i had enough space. Wrong.
Post a picture of the actual damage to your hood so we can get a better idea of what you are dealing with. I doubt that air cleaner has a drop base like the original GM air cleaners. Short of being able to maybe machine a little off the top of the intake carb base, you are going to need to go back to some form of drop base air cleaner or install a big block or custom hood.
Sound like your clearance check didn't include engine movement under load of acceleration. Have you checked your motor mounts? The driver's side mount will stretch and allow engine movement. It will also break after sever service. Maybe a steel mount is what you need?
Thanks for the answers!!! The motor mounts r new(not sure if that means anything any more) i will post a picture of the hood damage, and i was thinking big block hood but paint match and all for a forty year old paint , i think would be hard! But i am a electrician retired!!! What the person said about solid engine mounts?? Can that lower the engine at all?? Can a guy mill off the carb. Pad mont on the alum. Intake enough and not create other issues??? Oh my. I thought it was awesome to have the beautiful air breather!!!!!! Lol. Thanks
Thanks for the answers!!! The motor mounts r new(not sure if that means anything any more) i will post a picture of the hood damage, and i was thinking big block hood but paint match and all for a forty year old paint , i think would be hard! But i am a electrician retired!!! What the person said about solid engine mounts?? Can that lower the engine at all?? Can a guy mill off the carb. Pad mont on the alum. Intake enough and not create other issues??? Oh my. I thought it was awesome to have the beautiful air breather!!!!!! Lol. Thanks
Smaller/shorter air filter or Modify/drop the base of yours....
EDIT:
Call Summit Racing tell them your problem, maybe they have something that will work
Not sure what carb you have but if an Edelbrock (with 14" air cleaner) I had to go with a drop base and then raise it with a 1/2" spacer to clear choke housing. Now it barely clears standard hood on my '66, but it clears. Now my problem is I want to add a 1/2" heat insulator between intake and carb to help with hot starts and percolating fuel. I'm going to try and modify the 14" drop base to clear choke and if that doesn't work maybe a 10" filter? I might add that it's not original 327 but a BluePrint 350.
The crack in the paint is slight, but it is there, breaks my heart that i did this!!! My car is not a Bloomington Gold, nor matching numbers , has 70s paint, Flair fenders were installed in the 70s and i love the car!!!!! I had installed a polished Alum. Edelbrock intake , a Holley Brawler 750 (i believe) so i purchased Ansen Amercian Made vavle covers and a 14" round Ansen air breather with drop base, and it left no hood clearance so i then bought a 15" Ansen Oval filter , dont belive i can use a drop base on it, but figured with being oval i was not out into the tighter area of the hood. Also used 2" oval K&N element!!!! But still no luck , now with cracked hood paint!!!!! 😩
Can't help what spilled milk you have now, but you might want to consider the newer interlocking motor mounts required in the 70s to prevent this from happening again if you choose to continue utilizing the cast aluminum air cleaner assembly.
I used some NAPA motor mounts that were made in india on my 67 dodge resto..... I hadn't had the car up and running for very long but I had the hood up and in reverse and slightly power braked the car ( for some reason I cannot remember) and the engine looked like it raised up about 10 inches.... I assumed the motor mounts did'nt survive the 440 but when I removed them off they were not broken.....
I had alot of comments back then that " MM's from India" were made of whale blubber etc.... Basically the stuff was junk
Ordered up some expensive aftermarket MM's and the problem went away but I certainly felt more engine vibration with the new MM's.....
Just saying....
Hard to tell but being old lacquer (or maybe enamel) paint from the 70s there’s a good chance just the paint cracked and not the fiberglass. The old paints are brittle. The only way to know for sure would be to remove the paint in the area to examine the surfaces. The problem is matching an older paint as a lot of the tints used in lacquer are no longer available or have changed. If you can get a lead on an old school custom paint shop in your area from local car groups you might find someone who can match it with some old stock or match it to current single stage urethane. Good luck with getting her fixed up.
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327 off set
