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C2 iron head 427 engines used a 11 in clutch. 65 396/425 and L88 engines used a 10.4” clutch. Not sure about L89 but hardly enough of them made to even consider.
OK. You got me curious. Tell the beginner more. All new to picking a clutch. Can you tell me which Dual Friction Clutch, from Centerforce I assume, you used. I am guessing the clutch you tried worked OK. Was this in a C2? What engine, hp and torq ? How was the foot pedal pressure to operate the clutch ? More, less or can not tell much difference in the force needed to operate the Dual Friction clutch ? Did you run a 10.5 or the 11 ? Ugh!
Last edited by Nelag; Dec 26, 2024 at 09:42 PM.
Reason: Adding info.
When I started racing back in the 70's I was talking to my engine builder about a 11" clutch and he asked me why I wanted a 11" clutch. He said , what are doing pulling stumps ? I never bought an 11" clutch again and haven't regreted it. You just don't need it.
When I started racing back in the 70's I was talking to my engine builder about a 11" clutch and he asked me why I wanted a 11" clutch. He said , what are doing pulling stumps ? I never bought an 11" clutch again and haven't regreted it. You just don't need it.
I have the 168 tooth flywheel in all my cars with a basic 11in diaphragm clutch. Needed or not, that's what is in all of them
If an 11” clutch is considered an antiquated, truck oriented, stump puller, anachronism - then I can only imagine what they think of the 12” McLeod clutch behind the stroked FE in my ERA Cobra roadster. McLeod clutches, if you look at the specifications, have equal total clamping force in 10.4 and 11 sizes. The only way I figure they can accomplish that with reduced surface area, is stronger springs in the pressure plate. That has to equate to higher force - and pedal pressure - to disengage the clutch. Maybe it’s not that simple - maybe they use a different lever ratio on the fingers to keep the pedal pressure down but I suspect that means more pedal travel distance to fully disengage the disc, which is pretty restrictive in a Corvette foot box. I don’t know if that’s true for all makers but I generally use McLeod so I’m just fine with the big clutches.
The 11 inch clutch will have more wear surface and will pull more load before slipping given the same clamping force from the pressure plate.
Back in the day, I ran 11 inch clutches in a 71 Vega with a 302 (400+ HP) and Nash 5 speed on the drag strip. I say clutches as I changed them every year and even then a couple of times on the back of the trailer at the track when they lost the metallic friction face.
The OP is not going for the 11 second passes on the drag strip nor pulling 12,000 lbs. in a grain truck.
I believe the pedal pressure is greater on an 11 inch pressure plate than the 10.4 inch making driving a little more uncomfortable for the older driver and most women. The 10.4 inch clutch assembly will provide adequate service for the lightweight C1 or C2 for thousands of normal spirited cruising miles. The 11 inch assembly will most likely provide more miles in a cruiser. The metallic or ceramic friction facings will be more durable than the organic friction facing.
He must decide how he is driving the car and what durability he needs. I am thinking the LUK 10.4 inch clutch and pressure plate would last him many years. A metallic or ceramic face disc would last longer, but wear the flywheel surface more.
When I installed my TKO, we installed the new clutch that came with the kit to replace a Centerforce Dual Friction. Drove it a few times and hated the engagement/feel. Pulled the TKO (big pain) and replaced with all Centerforce Dual Friction parts (not sure who's TO bearing). It is so smooth. I'm sure McLeod has a comparable product, but I went back with what I knew. My non-stock L72 dyno'd at 560 hp. Been a while... I think we installed the 10.4" DF kit. I'm sure this clutch will out last me. I don't drop the clutch but always run it hard several times when driven. Happy New Year. Larry
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