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[C2] electrical issue

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Old May 2, 2025 | 11:50 AM
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Afternoon.........I am trouble shooting no red running lights on the rear or instrument cluster lights on a '64. Front parking lights work, head lights hi and low beams work, as they should, turn signals all work as do the brake lights and the back up lights. I have 12 volts on the red wire at the switch and if I jump across the red to the brown my red tail lights work and if I jumper red to dark green my dash lights work. I am suspecting the switch is the problem. Should I be checking elsewhere before replacing the switch?
Thank you for any help before I spend my weekly allowance.
Ric
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Old May 2, 2025 | 12:20 PM
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What about the fuse
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Old May 2, 2025 | 12:44 PM
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First thing I checked and the fuse is good
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Old May 2, 2025 | 01:41 PM
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Which fuse did you check and how did you check it? Don't be offended, just answer the question as asked. The red wire on the switch only feeds the headlight. The park lights and tail lights and dash lights feed from a different red wire at the fuse box.
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Old May 2, 2025 | 01:58 PM
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No offence taken, I checked the 3rd from the bottom, actually I checked all the fuses for continuity while I was under there.
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Old May 2, 2025 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 66/427
No offence taken, I checked the 3rd from the bottom, actually I checked all the fuses for continuity while I was under there.
Second from the bottom is the tail lights it should have 12 V on both sides of the fuse anytime the headlight switch is in the park or on position then that voltage feeds through the dash light dimmer switch back to the third fuse from the bottom for the dash light if the tail light fuse is out the dash lights won't work either so the second fuse from the bottom is the key. The voltage on the third fuse from the bottom will depend on where you have the rotational dimmer switch set. It could be zero or close to 12 depending on whether you have it fully clockwise or fully counterclockwise. measure voltages don't just look at the fuse.
None of the lights you have out function from the headlight power source red wire
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Old May 2, 2025 | 02:42 PM
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Thanks for the help....When you indicated that the second fuse was critical I went and checked again to make sure it was good and yes it was, but just to be sure I removed it cleaned the ends put it back in and voila it all came to life. I have working dash and rear running lights. Really appreciated the help. Now I have my weekly allowance to buy me a banana split and will invest in a new fuse.
Ric
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Old May 2, 2025 | 02:51 PM
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make sure its the correct amp as well
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Old May 2, 2025 | 03:07 PM
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Sometimes cars were taken apart and grounds in general where neglected. Generally on DC, need grounds on the end of the circuit after the load component.
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Old May 2, 2025 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 66/427
Thanks for the help....When you indicated that the second fuse was critical I went and checked again to make sure it was good and yes it was, but just to be sure I removed it cleaned the ends put it back in and voila it all came to life. I have working dash and rear running lights. Really appreciated the help. Now I have my weekly allowance to buy me a banana split and will invest in a new fuse.
Ric
that's exactly why I always tell people to measure the voltage, but they almost always ignore me and just look at it and say nope looks good. The fuse clip will corrode and it won't make connection to the end of the fuse and you get no reading.
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