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Post a picture of the steering shaft showing the two universals. If the shaft between them is not supported properly, they can “roll over” and cause this exact problem.
Just realized the steering shaft has 2 rounded sides and 2 flat sides. The set screws are tightened into the rounded sides rather than the flat sides. Will examine later to see if the shaft can be repositioned in the universal so that the set screws tighten into the flat surface.
The set screw is harder than the shaft and can wear a slot into the shaft over time. Just because the locknut is tight, doesn’t mean the set screw is tight. I would remove and inspect the shaft. I think this is where you will find your problem. Also, your u-joints are not in phase.This can also create stress at the set screw and in the u-joints.
I was just looking again at your photos. It looks like you are using the wrong universal joints. Should be Borgeson brand, and there should be a "double D" on the ends that go to the double D shaft. There are two set screws, with two lock nuts. I use blue lock tight on the nuts. If you're using a u joint with a round hole, you're going to kill yourself.
BTW, the Borgeson stuff is about 4 times the money....for a reason. Made in Amerca, and not some 13 year old Chinese girl. They specialize in Steering only.
Last edited by mike coletta; Aug 5, 2025 at 01:27 PM.
The best practice is to use u-joints that have the flat built into the socket of the joint, not rely on a set screw to keep it from rotating. It is hard to tell what yours are.
Also, they appear to be different brands, so if they have the flats in them, they may be opposite of each other which won't allow for the correct phasing.
Edit: Mike beat me to the punch. His pics show what you need.
Just realized the steering shaft has 2 rounded sides and 2 flat sides. The set screws are tightened into the rounded sides rather than the flat sides. Will examine later to see if the shaft can be repositioned in the universal so that the set screws tighten into the flat surface.
This is called "DD" or double D, and is specifically for steering. Go to www.borgeson.com. One U joint will be A "DD" to whatever you column end is, and the other end will be a "DD" to whatever the rack is.
Also, in your first photo the DD shaft is pushed too far into the u joint. The DD shaft and the splined rack and column ends should be flush with the inside of the ends, and not protruding to the inside. This will cause a severe bind, and possibly lock the steering in a turned position.
The best practice is to use u-joints that have the flat built into the socket of the joint, not rely on a set screw to keep it from rotating. It is hard to tell what yours are.
Also, they appear to be different brands, so if they have the flats in them, they may be opposite of each other which won't allow for the correct phasing.
Edit: Mike beat me to the punch. His pics show what you need.
Turns out my universals have a flat side so my set screws are will be on the rounded part of the shaft. I will correct the phase and get better universals.
This is called "DD" or double D, and is specifically for steering. Go to www.borgeson.com. One U joint will be A "DD" to whatever you column end is, and the other end will be a "DD" to whatever the rack is.
Also, in your first photo the DD shaft is pushed too far into the u joint. The DD shaft and the splined rack and column ends should be flush with the inside of the ends, and not protruding to the inside. This will cause a severe bind, and possibly lock the steering in a turned position.
After I get the proper joints, I will cut the shaft to the correct length. Thanks.
Today I used blue tape on both sides of all joints/universals. I then indexed everything with black lines. Took the car for a drive making all solid right turns. Pulled into the garage and the steering wheel had shifted 30 degrees to the right while all the index marks stayed lined up. Conclusion: there is no movement along the shaft between the firewall and the rack itself. (and, yes, I am correcting the universal phasing error) All of the universals have rounded and flat sides to correcting hold the shaft from rotating in the universal.
So, the steering wheel angle shifting is either due to the rack or the steering column. I don’t see how the rack could act this way, so I am ready to pull the column. Someone suggested to me that the sheer pin for the collapsible steering wheel could have enlarged its hole, allowing steering wheel movement.
Any more ideas now that I have ruled out the shaft connections? 30 degrees is a large shift!
Sorry I’ve been absent from the thread I started a month ago.
Update: I removed the rack and sent it to Lonestar steering. It was inspected and they replaced a shaft. (they weren’t clear as to what a shaft is) Will be shipping back to me tomorrow. My plan is to re-install the rack, use new properly phased universals, bleed it and go for a drive. Either all is well now or it’s time to pull the steering column out. If the rack is all good and there is no play anywhere between the firewall and the tie-rod ends, the massive play must be in the column. (steering wheel is splined and tight)
Will post my findings after the test drive in a week or so. Thanks again, everyone.
So as I mentioned in post #18, if this is a Flaming River column, there is know issues with excess play in the column tilt joint.
Pic just for reference.
