When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That’s not built up wax. That is part of the cast. My question is should I punch out the metal like the second T (the first t has the cast metal under it as does the v)
On original; emblems the space between the "r" and the "v" and the space between the "e" and the first "t" are open/cut out on original 63-65 deck emblems. The "S" and "R" in Sting Ray look off, maybe a little small or shaped wrong to me too? I've never seen an original or repro cast like that one. I think I have a couple NOS ones, if I can find one I'll post a photo later.
I'm pretty confused right now. I pulled out one of the NOS 63-65 rear emblems I had and it's exactly like the OP's, but a quick search on line turned up NOS ones with the cut outs as I described above. I'm 99 percent sure the original version of the emblem had the cutouts, and the later GM reissues may have been cast without the cutouts. This is pretty typical of GM, they often made changes to parts when they were in the Service Parts system to make them easier or cheaper to make.
Below is a picture from Nolan Adams Restoration Guide No.2 for 63-67 Corvettes. The picture is of an original rear emblem on a car and the cut outs between "r" and "v" and "e" and the first "t" easy to see.
I'm pretty confused right now. I pulled out one of the NOS 63-65 rear emblems I had and it's exactly like the OP's, but a quick search on line turned up NOS ones with the cut outs as I described above. I'm 99 percent sure the original version of the emblem had the cutouts, and the later GM reissues may have been cast without the cutouts. This is pretty typical of GM, they often made changes to parts when they were in the Service Parts system to make them easier or cheaper to make.
Below is a picture from Nolan Adams Restoration Guide No.2 for 63-67 Corvettes. The picture is of an original rear emblem on a car and the cut outs between "r" and "v" and "e" and the first "t" easy to see.
I just compared the OP's pic with the one you posted, it looks like the 'tail' of the last 'E' in the OP's pic needs to be cleaned up also..all though very small it could break the 'E' off, if done..
Below are pictures of one the NOS 63-65 rear deck emblems I have. These are not recent GM parts, but instead came out of the inventory of a Corvette that closed around 1980. This emblem has the same filled in area between "r" and the "v" and the "e" and first "t". It also has a lot of excess flashing in the "o" and the "e".
A lot of Corvette owners get excited about NOS parts and gladly pay a premium for them, but this is a good example of why NOS parts aren't always better than repros. GM often let the quality of parts deteriorate, or made changes to them in an effort to save money. Just like with anything else, care has to be taken when buying NOS parts.
Looking at my NOS emblem, I'd say the OP's emblem is a probably an older GM service replacement part with the similar flashing issues to the one I have.
Below are pictures of one the NOS 63-65 rear deck emblems I have. These are not recent GM parts, but instead came out of the inventory of a Corvette that closed around 1980. This emblem has the same filled in area between "r" and the "v" and the "e" and first "t". It also has a lot of excess flashing in the "o" and the "e".
A lot of Corvette owners get excited about NOS parts and gladly pay a premium for them, but this is a good example of why NOS parts aren't always better than repros. GM often let the quality of parts deteriorate, or made changes to them in an effort to save money. Just like with anything else, care has to be taken when buying NOS parts.
Looking at my NOS emblem, I'd say the OP's emblem is a probably an older GM service replacement part with the similar flashing issues to the one I have.
Glenn,
While NOS can, sometimes, be very attractive to have in this case...not so much. Comparing your NOS script piece to the piece from Trim Parts, there is an, obvious, world of difference in quality. Trim Parts wins this one
Long arms help....you don't need to drop the tank....if have side pipes it's easier..you can drop the exhaust panel for both applications...but for rear exhaust..remove the bolts from the muffler on the muffler hanger...the muffler will drop out of the way, 'somewhat'...this will give you access to the speed nuts..use some extensions to reach the speed nuts
