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I've never seen it attempted but if the TF heads have raised valve cover rails, interference seems likely. A possible semi-Bubba solution would be to trim the bottom edge of the Piezometer ring to gain clearance.
Less Bubba would be milling the mounting rails on the head unless the clearance is needed for a non stock valve
train.
Your dual air meter brings up another issue: will a 383 breathe through one air meter OK?
A single C2 Air Meter will flow a skosh under 700 dry CFM (roughly equivalent to 750 wet CFM).. Based on personal experience with a 377 (std bore 383) and a 650 Holley, I think you'd be happy with a stock C2 FI. But if you aren't happy, and if you are willing to do some machining of the Venturi Cone, you can get the flow up to about 730 dry CFM.
A single C2 Air Meter will flow a skosh under 700 dry CFM (roughly equivalent to 750 wet CFM).. Based on personal experience with a 377 (std bore 383) and a 650 Holley, I think you'd be happy with a stock C2 FI. But if you aren't happy, and if you are willing to do some machining of the Venturi Cone, you can get the flow up to about 730 dry CFM.
Well, this winter I’m putting the original 327-250 on a stand and dropping in the 383-(I’m guessing, 425 HP). I think I’ll be “happy” with the difference, even at a “paltry” 700 dry CFM.
Last edited by Vettrocious; Sep 8, 2025 at 08:58 PM.
Well, this winter I’m putting the original 327-250 on a stand and dropping in the 383-(I’m guessing, 425 HP). I think I’ll be “happy” with the difference, even at a “paltry” 700 dry CFM.
I started building this engine few years back, for the silver car below, but then sold the car. Finally decided to finish the 383 (657 block) and put it in the red car…The red car has factory A/C (the silver one had A/C also) , so I’m probably keeping the A/C, and using an aftermarket belt set-up to allow the L84 air cleaner, as we did in the silver one.
This car, with air, was a 360 HP 327, with Steeroids power rack and pinion and thermostat-controlled puller fan (no belt-driven fan) It also had an in-tank fuel pump (you can see the fuel regulator next to the distributor), so the fuel line didn’t run near the exhaust manifold (or the lower engine). The fuel line went straight from the regulator to the Rochester. Even with the extra heat from the A/C, percolation was not a problem.
Thanks for the pic.
Looks like you need to remove a lot of hardware to time the engine /
Yeah, the canister needed to come off, then it was possible. The current owner is a friend, who bought it without the Rochester and installed FAST electronic port fuel injection. Saw it last week, still running fine.
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