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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 12:17 PM
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I installed a wire from the horn relay to the headlight assembly connector inside on the drivers side just forward of the door. Two days latter I have a dead battery. Any ideas?
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 12:34 PM
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Based on your screen name, you have a '63, yes? Assuming so, are you aware that when the ignition lock wears, it's possible to remove the key from the ignition with the switch in the ACC position? If you accidentally do that, the gauges will be powered up and their draw will kill the battery in a couple of days.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 02:05 PM
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Yes a 63. Key was in the lock position. After battery is charged is there a simple way to see if I am losing the battery charge?
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 02:08 PM
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Remove the negative battery cable and put a voltmeter between the cable and the battery. It will show if there is any voltage draw.Proceed from there.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by apahl
Remove the negative battery cable and put a voltmeter between the cable and the battery. It will show if there is any voltage draw.Proceed from there.
correction:
put an ammeter between the cable and the battery and see if it shows any current (amps) draw. Make sure your courtesy lights and your glove box lights are going off when they should.
Where you should've connected the red wire inside the car was to the headlight rollover relay forward of the driver's door. I hope that's what you did.
FREE TIP: Don't connect the ammeter with the setting on the milliamp scale and open the doors or turn on any lights or step on the brake or start the car or any other electrical function. You will blow the fuse in the ammeter. If you really need to know, I'll tell you how I know that. Use the 10a or whatever larger setting your ammeter has. The reading you should get should be much less than an amp (in that setting). Just opening the doors will draw a several amps through the courtesy light bulbs. If you have a stock clock, it could also have points that do the rewind setting every couple of minutes sticking and will run the battery down post-haste.

Last edited by 65GGvert; Sep 8, 2025 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 02:40 PM
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And, make sure your brake lights are going off when you release the pedal.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 03:11 PM
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No, you can use a voltmeter just as well. All you want to see is if there is a larger than normal( say .5 volts) draw. If you have a 6 volt draw say, something is on or diodes in alternator are bad. Lots of possibilities.
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Old Sep 8, 2025 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by apahl
No, you can use a voltmeter just as well. All you want to see is if there is a larger than normal( say .5 volts) draw. If you have a 6 volt draw say, something is on or diodes in alternator are bad. Lots of possibilities.
Volts is pressure not current. Voltage doesn't draw. If you disconnect the negative battery terminal and hook 1 volt meter lead to the cable and the other meter lead on the voltmeter to the battery negative you've just interrupted the current flow and no voltage can be dropped because there's no circuit you'll read battery voltage 12 V when you're in series between the battery cable and the battery post Try it you'll see.
Use an ammeter or even a test light to see if there's amps moving. In order to have a voltage there has to be a resistance with current flowing through it. Don't forget to take into account your clock and any aftermarket radios that may draw current. Voltage readings are taken in parallel with the resistance. Current measurement is in series with the circuit you are testing.

Last edited by 65GGvert; Sep 8, 2025 at 05:12 PM.
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Old Sep 11, 2025 | 01:24 PM
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I have what I assume is the headlight assembly switch.It is about an 1" long and 1/2" wide. On the piece it self It has two threaded post with two red wires connected to it. The short post says Bat. and the long post says Littel Fuse. I had connected the wire from the horn relay to the long post. Could this caused the battery to drain? I have now changed to the short post, or bat, hoping this will work. Find out when the battery sits for a couple of days.
As you can tell I am an electrical wizard.
Thanks for the help
Gary
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Old Sep 11, 2025 | 03:35 PM
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Don't know what i was thinking but yes, you need the amp reading. The part you're working on is the headlight circuit breaker. and both sides should be 12 volts with the battery connected. This part is hot (12V) all the time so I doubt that is your drain. Disconnect various things and see if the drain goes away.
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Old Sep 11, 2025 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary63
I have what I assume is the headlight assembly switch.It is about an 1" long and 1/2" wide. On the piece it self It has two threaded post with two red wires connected to it. The short post says Bat. and the long post says Littel Fuse. I had connected the wire from the horn relay to the long post. Could this caused the battery to drain? I have now changed to the short post, or bat, hoping this will work. Find out when the battery sits for a couple of days.
As you can tell I am an electrical wizard.
Thanks for the help
Gary
No, that won't cause a drain. It's a circuit breaker, not a switch. Check the things I listed in my post. The red wire from the horn relay should go to the one marked battery on the circuit breaker. Connected to the other side takes your circuit breaker out of the circuit for the headlight rollover current.


Last edited by 65GGvert; Sep 11, 2025 at 06:52 PM.
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