I need to replace the carburetor on my 1965 convertible with an L76 engine. The original replacements are extremely expensive. I am looking at either a Holley 0-80457S or an Edelbrock 1406. Any suggestions?

 

Is yours the original 2818A? They can be rebuilt.

 

I have the same option L76.
Im running a Holley 600 cfm, dual feed, double pumper.
It runs well and no secondary bog.
Marshal

 

if you don't have the orignal now to be sent out and be restored correctly then look for a service dated one to have rebuiult correclty

 

DUVETTE65
I had leakage problems with the original 3810 and also with an 80457. Both had problems with the secondary metering PLATE assembly that weren’t corrected even by a seasoned Holley expert.
Because of these problems I moved to an 80783C because it has a secondary metering BLOCK which does not have the same leakage problems. Plus, the 80783C has center-hung, externally adjustable floats and very important to me, it has the old-time chromate finish, not the shiny finish that the 80457S has.
This carb runs great and doesn’t leak, especially when parked hot.
You are probably aware that the 80457 does not have the threaded inverted flare fuel inlet that your 2818 has so you will have to reconfigure the fuel line if you make the change. Unfortunately, the 80783 has a dual inlet inverted flare fuel inlet that will also require reconfiguration of the pump-to-carb fuel line.
i used one of the Holley dual feed fuel lines.

Good luck!
bill

 

Bill who was your Holley expert?

 

If you’re not concerned about originality, then Quickfuel is another option. They are Holly clones that you can use Holley jets and other parts. They were an independent company until Holley bought them several years ago. I bought mine when they were a separate company and the products and service was excellent, but I don’t know if it’s the same since it is now Holley.

 

I have an Edelbrock 1406 on the '65 327 in my '32 ford and the same on the 300 hp '66.i am a huge fan of these carburetors due to easy tuning and cleaning. I can disassemble one, clean out all the passages, and reassemble it and it works great! I never had the same experience with a Holley. they are also not prone to the leaking that holleys can do.

 

how often do you need to clean them?

 

The Edelbrock 1406 is ideal for performance and reliability, and you don't need to clean them out, but you will need to have a new gas line and filter from the pump, and a new air filter base. It will also require wiring for the electric choke. Dennis

 

I am running the Holley 80457s on an L79…. It’s Fine. Tunes like a Holley and runs well, tons of aftermarket support, parts etc. But modern gas evaporates out over 3-4 days time. Though that’s probably not unique to Holley.
i am currently trying to decide between a refurbed list 3367 or moving to Sniper 2 EFI…. About $2k either way (actually a bit more for the Sniper 2 route…)

 

Daytona products for top notch rebuild of Holley

 

When we purchased R66 at an auction, they had put a new Holley 600 cfm 4160 on it to get it running for the sale. The black smoke it put out was worse than my diesel truck under load. The floats were set too high and the wrong jetting on the primary. I fooled with it for a while and got it just barely acceptable. I then rebuilt the original 3367 Holley which had a warped throttle baseplate, worn throttle shaft bushings, and various other problems. Once I put the rebuilt original on the 300hp/327, it came alive and performed much better than the new Holley. I gave the new Holley to my son as he is an ASE certified GM mechanic. After rebuilding the engine, it will start on the first revolution even after setting a week with the rebuilt original carburetor.
I also have a 68RS Camaro with a 350 and the L79 cam. I put an Edelbrock 1406 on it. After a small amount of tuning, I am happy with it other than cold starts are a challenge after it sets for a few days. However that could be the fuel as I run ethanol laced gas. The Edelbrock on the 68RS performs as well as the Holley on R66 other than that.
Buying new from Holley, who also owns Edelbrock, doesn't mean it is tuned to your engine, you may still have to do some minor tuning.
If you don't have the original carburetor, you will have to modify the fuel line, probably the choke system, vacuum lines, etc. for either replacement carburetor. For cruising, I recommend a vacuum secondary and don't over carburate it. Too big is worse than too small in my opinion, 600 cfm will take you to 5,500 rpm or more.

 

not often. sometimes a bit of dirt gets past the fuel filter. the point is they are very easy to work on. the top can be removed while still on the manifold, unlike holleys that you can't take the fuel bowls off without spilling gas on the manifold.

 

I got lucky, when I bought my '66, the Edelbrock was already on it. if it hadn't been, I would have put one on it.

 

I’d rather not name him because he’s got a great local shop and has been building, tuning & racing Holley carbs for over 50 years.
The problem with the 80457 was gas leaking out of the secondary float bowl into the idle circuit. Every possible cause was eliminated except replacing the main body (which I did by buying a new carb).

 

I replaced the non orginal leaky Holley on my 64 with an Edelbrock and loved it. Worry free and easy to change the jets.

 

Another Edelbrock 1406 user here. Works great out of the box on my 327 275 (passenger car engine, not original). Electric choke works fine and the carb is pretty bullet-proof.

 

Either should do the job.

Back in 2023, I put a Holley 80457S Brawler on my '67 L79. Typical minor adjusts to idle mixture and speed, but no power valves or jetting changes. Absolutely no leakage issues.

The previous carb on mine was an older "economy" Holley replacement (6919?), with reversed idle mixture screw circuit. In 3 years, I "rebuilt" it 3 times and replaced the needle and seat a 4th time (might have been the problem the 2nd and 3rd time). I would load up and run very rich if I let it sit more than 3-4 weeks... I was thinking modern fuel. But a buddy has a Holley on his Chevelle, and he hasn't touched the carb in 17+ years... So I figured I'd replace it.

Thought about going "correct" (but service dated), but still expensive. I can do the basic rebuild, but shaft bushing, etc was also $$$ plus the car would be down for weeks or more. Non-original motor anyway, so why pay extra to be "correct"?

I only went with the Holley over the Edelbrock because it was easier to adapt without buying more new parts and allowed me to keep the fuel line setup I already was using.

I thought the 64/65 L76 carbs used a hose and barbed fitting... My '67 was supposed to have the threaded bowl.


BTW, I am using the 64/65 L76 pump and pump-to-carb fuel line (with the in-line filter AND the FACTORY OEM rubber fuel line! I liked having the filter.


Otherwise, I would have probably run the Edelbrock. If I was going Edelbrock, I'd look for the Thunder AVS version (if thats available in the 600 cfm version).



I used to tune Holleys for all my buddies, and drag raced a few. Then I realized that for most "street" cars (with limited traction at launch), a well-tuned Holley vacuum secondary and the Edelbrock both provided quicker ET's than the double pumper, which was usually "detuned" to avoid blowing the tires off on launch.

I even had my '70 Chevelle (all-steel, factory A/C, lowered with low-profile tires) that actually ran quicker ETs with a literally out-of-the-box Edelbrock than the Double pumper it came with... DP was fun on the street, because it would smoke the tires at 40-45 MPH... That Edelbrock (800 cfm AVS) ran 12.55 untuned. Slight tuning (secondary air door and rods/step ups) and launch (left at idle) and I got it to 11.98 at around 115. Still smoked the tires for 25-30 mph on the street (315/35/17 Nitto drag radials).


on my ‘67 with the 80457S,
with the stock air cleaner in place, you can’t really see the carb to tell it’s shiny version. I had to lengthen the PCV hose and added a 90-degree elbow.



can’t see much…

 

Since these old original Holleys are pushing 60 years old, they often have a warped main body that needs squared up again to stop leaks. This photo is a service replacement 67 350HP 4160/3810 that was warped by about .015", just needed a cleanup cut on front and rear surfaces. Some need baseplate surface trued up as well. Always better to stick with the correct carb and fix them properly and avoid fuel line, choke, linkage, and air cleaner issues with some other replacement carb.
Feel free to send me all those old junk original Holley carb bodies you don't want!!!