[C1] Problems please help 1962 fuelie
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,541
Likes: 138
Problems please help 1962 fuelie
Let me start at the beginning. Got this 62 fuelie that was suppose to be in excellent shape. When it arrived at my house we had to push it off the carrier. First I had to change the gas tank, fuel lines, fuel pump and have the fuelie unit rebuilt. Did all that. Every wire harness was butchered beyond repair. I changed every wire harness in the car. Today started the car , started right up and runs beautiful. First problem the battery gauge was pegged at 30 negative. I checked all the wires according to the wiring diagram. Everything was correct.. I switched the pink and blue wires on the back of the gauge and the reading is correct now. Leads me to believe the wiring diagram is wrong or they switched the wires in the harness. Next problem, Temp. gauge doesn't work, Grounded the temp lead and got nothing. Think I have a bad gauge. Next the fuel gauge is working imtermediately.. Next when I turn on the key the horn relay clicks. Final problem Are the seats the same, Pass and driver.. How do I tell which one is what. With the adjuster off the seat. Please help. Thanks.
Last edited by prestige6; Nov 8, 2025 at 05:48 PM. Reason: post
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,202
Likes: 4,187
From: Kannapolis NC
That's too much to try to resolve all at once, but I will give you two facts to work with:
If it's wired correctly, turning the key off or on has no effect on the horn operation. It has battery voltage all the time the battery is in the circuit.
The temp gauge should have 12v on the wire that connects to the top of the temp sensor any time the battery is in the circuit and the key is on. Disconnect the wire from the sensor and measure with a voltmeter on the wire you pulled off and the black meter lead on a good ground. With the key on it should read battery voltage. Report back what you get.
As for an intermittent fuel gauge, if it's bouncing up and down, you need to add a ground from one of the screws on the fuel sender on the top of the tank and connect the other end of the wire to a GOOD chassis ground. It's a known issue and a ground needs to be added. I found a bolt on the frame underneath and put a ring terminal on the end of the new wire and a star washer on it and reattached to the frame and it resolved that problem for me.
If it's wired correctly, turning the key off or on has no effect on the horn operation. It has battery voltage all the time the battery is in the circuit.
The temp gauge should have 12v on the wire that connects to the top of the temp sensor any time the battery is in the circuit and the key is on. Disconnect the wire from the sensor and measure with a voltmeter on the wire you pulled off and the black meter lead on a good ground. With the key on it should read battery voltage. Report back what you get.
As for an intermittent fuel gauge, if it's bouncing up and down, you need to add a ground from one of the screws on the fuel sender on the top of the tank and connect the other end of the wire to a GOOD chassis ground. It's a known issue and a ground needs to be added. I found a bolt on the frame underneath and put a ring terminal on the end of the new wire and a star washer on it and reattached to the frame and it resolved that problem for me.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2024
Posts: 667
Likes: 340
From: Oklahoma
That really sucks. My 1st later life 62 (2017) needed a carb OH when it rolled off the truck....after being represented as needing nothing. Turned out after spending $1000 on needed work, the frame was bent as well and it wouldn't track right. Made the dealer take it back, but it was a very expensive learning curve. 
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,202
Likes: 4,187
From: Kannapolis NC
my "sent" box doesn't show that the message went out. What I wanted you to check was disconnect the sensor wire for the temperature on the intake manifold turn the key on and measure for 12 V on that wire to the ground and tell me what you get.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 22,202
Likes: 4,187
From: Kannapolis NC
The 12v for the temp gauge comes directly from the ignition switch on a pink wire to one side of the temp gauge and then through the gauge to the end that goes to the sensor, so you either have a bad connection or an open gauge. If you have 12v on one side of the gauge and not the other, mostly likely the connection there or the gauge is open.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,541
Likes: 138
Thanks for your help. It turned out to be the gauge. Fuel gauge works now.. Are the seats the same, Pass and driver.. How do I tell which one is what. With the adjuster off the seat. Please help. Thanks.