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has anyone ever installed the gasket first and then roped in the front windshield? The gasket definitely lays in the channel much better and it also looks like the trim will fit better as well.
will be trying this as in the past installing a new windshield with trim has not gone very well as the total is now 4 cracked windshields. The gasket with the windshield installed into it has always seem not seated and for a couple of them getting the trim on was a no go on the last pieces. When i bought my car the windshield was glued in so after much frustration the last one i installed i glued it in place only to see a week later and no driving it cracked so i left it until now. cleaned it all out and took the oem gasket that i had before installed it in the frame and it looked great and the trim installed with out a problem except no windshield in place. I had called so many installers and the only one i found knowledgeable wanted 150 per hour and said it would take all day when asked why he said the new china windshields would need to be ground down in the passenger corner/side to make everything fit. Never ground glass before and do not know if any of this will work but thought it was a try to see if anyone here did what i am going to try.
I have installed somewhere between 75 and 100 C2 windshields, and I haven't EVER had to grind one. During the past 30 years or so, all of my glass has come from Auto City Classic. I don't think that your theory is going to work, because of the position that the glass fits into the W/S.
Here is what I do. Rope is CRITICAL. I like 1/4" cotton that is woven, not twisted. Smaller won't pull the rubber correctly, and larger won't work at all. Put the rubber on the glass (I don't use any sealant on the glass). Make sure that the corners at the top are perfectly aligned. Put the rope in and cross the two ends in the center at the bottom. Lay the glass on the opening, centered, and so that the lower rubber is about 1/4" below the top edge of the pinch weld. The lower crossed rope will be laying inside, and drooped over the pinch weld. Start pulling the rope, both ends at once, an the rubber will "flip up" and catch the inside of the pinch weld. Stop, and manually massage the rubber downward a little to make sure it is ON the pinch weld. Now you can continue pulling slowly, going out to the bottom corners, and watching that the W/S is going over the pinchweld. Now, on one side, pull the rubber around one corner, while pushing down on the rubber with your fingers, which will engage the corner, and the bottom. Now do the other side the same way. Now take your fingers and go along the bottom edge, corner to corner, and push the rubber over the pinch weld a little bit. This will slide the rubber off of the glass and on to the pinchweld. What you want to end up with at this point is the the rubber channel grooves are engaged fully with the pinch weld, and the glass. This is most important in getting everything to fit (top corners in particular).
Now, go outside and "SLAP" the glass in a downward motion HARD. Make sure you're not wearing a ring, and that your palms are completely dry. What you are trying to do here, is to drive the glass down into it's lowest position. You will do this several times as you continue to pull the rope. If the glass is NOT ALL THE WAY INTO THE CHANNEL, AND THE RUBBER IS NOT ALL THE WAY DOWN ON THE PINCH WELD.......IT WON'T FIT.
Now continue to pull the rope up each side until you get to the top corner. You're going to be doing one corner at a time. Wrap the rope around your fingers, so that your close to the glass (exposed rope will be about 3-5" from the glass to your hands. ON the drivers side you are going to make a counter clockwise motion, while pulling the rope, to go around that corner. It's very tight, but when you make the corner, you will see/feel the glass drop into place. You'll probably have to continue slapping and pushing to get the rope over the top of the curve. Do the passenger side with a clockwise motion. DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE ROPE STRAIGHT OUT WHEN GOING AROUND THE CORNERS.
Now, pull the rope from the top of the glass. Again, go outside and slap, push and slap the window until it is in its lowest position. Don't use any hammers, pry tools, etc. A "nick" on the edge is really about the only thing that will break that glass.
A couple more thoughts.
Don't use the old rubber. The W/S needs to be fresh and soft
If you are using your old trim clips, make sure that they are good.
If you are using reproduction clips, you should know that they don't "hook" at the same distance as the original clips so you can't mix them
If you are replacing all of the clips, you may have to modify them to work. There is a post on that somewhere.
If you want to add sealer, you can do that from inside after you are done. I typically do the bottom, and up the sides about half way up the sides with 3M Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane
Test fit your w/s and trim before you start (sounds like you have already done that)
I'm not sure I fully understand your question, but seat the gasket fully on the windshield first, then rope the assembly into the frame. An extra set of hands is strongly recommended.
I don’t believe that is possible, although in full transparency I’ve never tried it.
The windshield is 5 and the pinch weld is 16. You would have to pull the string from the outside which would be difficult. Also, there should be sealant in the gasket where the windshield sits. I suppose you could add the sealant later once installed, but that might also be difficult. Another question is where do you start the string? On other classics, I’ve always started at the bottom but some C2 Corvette restorers say starting at the top is easier.
will be trying this as in the past installing a new windshield with trim has not gone very well as the total is now 4 cracked windshields. The gasket with the windshield installed into it has always seem not seated and for a couple of them getting the trim on was a no go on the last pieces. When i bought my car the windshield was glued in so after much frustration the last one i installed i glued it in place only to see a week later and no driving it cracked so i left it until now. cleaned it all out and took the oem gasket that i had before installed it in the frame and it looked great and the trim installed with out a problem except no windshield in place. I had called so many installers and the only one i found knowledgeable wanted 150 per hour and said it would take all day when asked why he said the new china windshields would need to be ground down in the passenger corner/side to make everything fit. Never ground glass before and do not know if any of this will work but thought it was a try to see if anyone here did what i am going to try.
65 Provette beautiful car. Curious did you reinstall original windshield or a new one if so from who? Also, original trim clips or aftermarket from Corvette parts suppliers? Most windshield install comments are complaints on one or the other causing fitment problems. Most seem to have trouble with the trim clips not catching saying rubber too thick. Thanks for your posting glad yours went well.
will be trying this as in the past installing a new windshield with trim has not gone very well as the total is now 4 cracked windshields. The gasket with the windshield installed into it has always seem not seated and for a couple of them getting the trim on was a no go on the last pieces. When i bought my car the windshield was glued in so after much frustration the last one i installed i glued it in place only to see a week later and no driving it cracked so i left it until now. cleaned it all out and took the oem gasket that i had before installed it in the frame and it looked great and the trim installed with out a problem except no windshield in place. I had called so many installers and the only one i found knowledgeable wanted 150 per hour and said it would take all day when asked why he said the new china windshields would need to be ground down in the passenger corner/side to make everything fit. Never ground glass before and do not know if any of this will work but thought it was a try to see if anyone here did what i am going to try.
I have installed somewhere between 75 and 100 C2 windshields, and I haven't EVER had to grind one. During the past 30 years or so, all of my glass has come from Auto City Classic. I don't think that your theory is going to work, because of the position that the glass fits into the W/S.
Here is what I do. Rope is CRITICAL. I like 1/4" cotton that is woven, not twisted. Smaller won't pull the rubber correctly, and larger won't work at all. Put the rubber on the glass (I don't use any sealant on the glass). Make sure that the corners at the top are perfectly aligned. Put the rope in and cross the two ends in the center at the bottom. Lay the glass on the opening, centered, and so that the lower rubber is about 1/4" below the top edge of the pinch weld. The lower crossed rope will be laying inside, and drooped over the pinch weld. Start pulling the rope, both ends at once, an the rubber will "flip up" and catch the inside of the pinch weld. Stop, and manually massage the rubber downward a little to make sure it is ON the pinch weld. Now you can continue pulling slowly, going out to the bottom corners, and watching that the W/S is going over the pinchweld. Now, on one side, pull the rubber around one corner, while pushing down on the rubber with your fingers, which will engage the corner, and the bottom. Now do the other side the same way. Now take your fingers and go along the bottom edge, corner to corner, and push the rubber over the pinch weld a little bit. This will slide the rubber off of the glass and on to the pinchweld. What you want to end up with at this point is the the rubber channel grooves are engaged fully with the pinch weld, and the glass. This is most important in getting everything to fit (top corners in particular).
Now, go outside and "SLAP" the glass in a downward motion HARD. Make sure you're not wearing a ring, and that your palms are completely dry. What you are trying to do here, is to drive the glass down into it's lowest position. You will do this several times as you continue to pull the rope. If the glass is NOT ALL THE WAY INTO THE CHANNEL, AND THE RUBBER IS NOT ALL THE WAY DOWN ON THE PINCH WELD.......IT WON'T FIT.
Now continue to pull the rope up each side until you get to the top corner. You're going to be doing one corner at a time. Wrap the rope around your fingers, so that your close to the glass (exposed rope will be about 3-5" from the glass to your hands. ON the drivers side you are going to make a counter clockwise motion, while pulling the rope, to go around that corner. It's very tight, but when you make the corner, you will see/feel the glass drop into place. You'll probably have to continue slapping and pushing to get the rope over the top of the curve. Do the passenger side with a clockwise motion. DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE ROPE STRAIGHT OUT WHEN GOING AROUND THE CORNERS.
Now, pull the rope from the top of the glass. Again, go outside and slap, push and slap the window until it is in its lowest position. Don't use any hammers, pry tools, etc. A "nick" on the edge is really about the only thing that will break that glass.
A couple more thoughts.
Don't use the old rubber. The W/S needs to be fresh and soft
If you are using your old trim clips, make sure that they are good.
If you are using reproduction clips, you should know that they don't "hook" at the same distance as the original clips so you can't mix them
If you are replacing all of the clips, you may have to modify them to work. There is a post on that somewhere.
If you want to add sealer, you can do that from inside after you are done. I typically do the bottom, and up the sides about half way up the sides with 3M Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane
Test fit your w/s and trim before you start (sounds like you have already done that)
I just installed my windshield myself in my 63 cp and it fit very nicely. Don’t use a new old stock weather strip thy are too thick. Corvette rubber.
did you use the 1963 only slip in clips that slide into the vertical side moldings top and bottom or do you have a work around if they are missing. You are doing a very nice job on that car..
did you use the 1963 only slip in clips that slide into the vertical side moldings top and bottom or do you have a work around if they are missing. You are doing a very nice job on that car..
I dealt with this dilemma recently on my '63 convertible. Those clips are unobtanium, as I'm sure you know. The one-year-only lower reveal molding for '63 is also not being reproduced, and mine was damaged.
I converted mine to the '64 lower molding and associated retaining hardware, including those clips, all of it purchased from Corvette Central. It worked out well.
Here's what I ordered, including A-pillar weatherstrips:
I have installed somewhere between 75 and 100 C2 windshields, and I haven't EVER had to grind one. During the past 30 years or so, all of my glass has come from Auto City Classic. I don't think that your theory is going to work, because of the position that the glass fits into the W/S.
Here is what I do. Rope is CRITICAL. I like 1/4" cotton that is woven, not twisted. Smaller won't pull the rubber correctly, and larger won't work at all. Put the rubber on the glass (I don't use any sealant on the glass). Make sure that the corners at the top are perfectly aligned. Put the rope in and cross the two ends in the center at the bottom. Lay the glass on the opening, centered, and so that the lower rubber is about 1/4" below the top edge of the pinch weld. The lower crossed rope will be laying inside, and drooped over the pinch weld. Start pulling the rope, both ends at once, an the rubber will "flip up" and catch the inside of the pinch weld. Stop, and manually massage the rubber downward a little to make sure it is ON the pinch weld. Now you can continue pulling slowly, going out to the bottom corners, and watching that the W/S is going over the pinchweld. Now, on one side, pull the rubber around one corner, while pushing down on the rubber with your fingers, which will engage the corner, and the bottom. Now do the other side the same way. Now take your fingers and go along the bottom edge, corner to corner, and push the rubber over the pinch weld a little bit. This will slide the rubber off of the glass and on to the pinchweld. What you want to end up with at this point is the the rubber channel grooves are engaged fully with the pinch weld, and the glass. This is most important in getting everything to fit (top corners in particular).
Now, go outside and "SLAP" the glass in a downward motion HARD. Make sure you're not wearing a ring, and that your palms are completely dry. What you are trying to do here, is to drive the glass down into it's lowest position. You will do this several times as you continue to pull the rope. If the glass is NOT ALL THE WAY INTO THE CHANNEL, AND THE RUBBER IS NOT ALL THE WAY DOWN ON THE PINCH WELD.......IT WON'T FIT.
Now continue to pull the rope up each side until you get to the top corner. You're going to be doing one corner at a time. Wrap the rope around your fingers, so that your close to the glass (exposed rope will be about 3-5" from the glass to your hands. ON the drivers side you are going to make a counter clockwise motion, while pulling the rope, to go around that corner. It's very tight, but when you make the corner, you will see/feel the glass drop into place. You'll probably have to continue slapping and pushing to get the rope over the top of the curve. Do the passenger side with a clockwise motion. DO NOT TRY TO PULL THE ROPE STRAIGHT OUT WHEN GOING AROUND THE CORNERS.
Now, pull the rope from the top of the glass. Again, go outside and slap, push and slap the window until it is in its lowest position. Don't use any hammers, pry tools, etc. A "nick" on the edge is really about the only thing that will break that glass.
A couple more thoughts.
Don't use the old rubber. The W/S needs to be fresh and soft
If you are using your old trim clips, make sure that they are good.
If you are using reproduction clips, you should know that they don't "hook" at the same distance as the original clips so you can't mix them
If you are replacing all of the clips, you may have to modify them to work. There is a post on that somewhere.
If you want to add sealer, you can do that from inside after you are done. I typically do the bottom, and up the sides about half way up the sides with 3M Windo-Weld Super Fast Urethane
Test fit your w/s and trim before you start (sounds like you have already done that)
Good luck.
Great write up. First time I’ve ever known sealer would be added from inside though.
Great write up. First time I’ve ever known sealer would be added from inside though.
This is a good point. I push the sealer from the inside, dash is out. This method will prevent any water intrusion from "climbing" the pinch weld while moving. It WILL NOT prevent intrusion at the clip screw holes. I use plenty of sealer while installing those screws. Don't use the little "foamie things" that they give you, and don't use silicone. Urethane will never leak.
c2 windshield install
