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Hi.
My 63 came with a carter wcfb hot air carburetor.
I am thinking of replacing it with a holly carburetor and and electric choke.
Thank you.
Abdul-
Believe it or not the carburetors the manufacturers put on its engines were specific to the application. That's why there are so many 'list" numbers applicable to the same basic type of carb. Though they look alike and most will interchange and can be modified to function it really is better (with the C2 Corvette) to use the original or one very similar. Carburetors used different CFM ratings and other design aspects depending upon whether they were used on cars, trucks, with manual or with automatic transmissions, fuel inlet, type of linkage and so on. While we made them "universal" out of necessity as kids, carburetors were built for specific applications, engine displacement, vehicle weight, transmission used and so forth.
So the advice you are getting supportive of repairing your presumably OEM carb is worth heeding.
Thank you ,Appreciate the feedback.
mine needs rebuild it keeps on leaking and the hot air choke on mine is broken. could not find the correct rebuild kit for it where i am located.
most suppliers will not ship internationally
and i thought that modern carburetors will preform better with today's fuel, also available locally.
regards
Thank you ,Appreciate the feedback.
mine needs rebuild it keeps on leaking and the hot air choke on mine is broken. could not find the correct rebuild kit for it where i am located.
most suppliers will not ship internationally
and i thought that modern carburetors will preform better with today's fuel, also available locally.
regards
nope. rebuilt and restored correctly it will perform better then any off the shelf carb you can buy. contact Phil at custom rebuilt carbs
Thank you ,Appreciate the feedback.
mine needs rebuild it keeps on leaking and the hot air choke on mine is broken. could not find the correct rebuild kit for it where i am located.
most suppliers will not ship internationally
I'm pretty sure Phil at Custom Rebuilt Carbs ships and receives internationally. dcamick gave you Phil's number but since you're someplace outside of the US his email may be more helpful to start with. It is thecarburetorman@gmail.com and his website is customrebuiltcarbs.com
and i thought that modern carburetors will preform better with today's fuel, also available locally.
regards
I'm pretty sure all carbs done by Custom Rebuilt Carbs are compatible with the ethanol blended fuel common in the states. Other than being ethanol compatible, I can't think of anything in a generic Holley that would make it operate any better today than a properly restored original WCFB carb.
Another possibility is that Phil may have a correct WCFB core on hand to restore and sell you, eliminating having some back and forth overseas shipping for you. He does maintain a stock of cores, and if he sold you a restored carb, he would be willing to buy your core, though the cost to ship it to him may be more than the core itself is worth.
The guy just wants to be able to drive his car and is apparently out of the country. Great advice on getting what he has fixed, but it didn't answer his question.
I am absolutely no expert, but I am assuming we would need to know the specs on the current carb and engine to give him a Holley recommendation.
Perhaps Abdul, if you can get that information together you could call Summit Racing or Holley themselves and ask for a recommendation?
The Holley website has a page to help select the carburetor based on the application. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...s/carburetors/ They also have tech videos to help with installation and troubleshooting. https://www.holley.com/support/carburetor/
Also, there is the Edelbrock website if you wish to explore their carburetors. https://www.edelbrock.com/installation-guides
For parts, I have found this website handy to identify carburetors and parts. https://www.carburetion.com/index.htm However, I have no experience with their service nor products.
As the others have said, GM had the carburetor calibrated to each application over the years. An aftermarket carburetor is calibrated for generic application and will require modifications to the fuel line, choke system, vacuum lines, etc. Many problems can be resolved by asking the experienced members here who have dealt with these carburetors.
I don't want to put a dog in the race as to which carburetor is best for the individual, but I found a rebuild of the original Holley 3367 on R66 was much better than the new generic Holley the PO put on it.
Some of the problems are heat related that can be minimized by adding a heat shield of some kind under the carburetor and plugging the heat passages in the intake. Other problems which seem to be carburetion are ignition problems. There are members here that can help diagnosis of the problems also.
Ron
If you switch to a Holley I believe you will have to change air cleaners as Holleys typically have a larger throat. You also would have to Jerry-rig up a fuel line connection. The electric choke would not be a problem as you can just wire it to the 12volt side of the ballast resister. So you can do it and with a 600/650 cfm, vacuum secondary Holley of appropriate model it should perform fine.
But, if it were me, I would try to have your WCFB restored and use it. You want it restored, not just rebuilt with a kit. That would probably involve sending to the U.S.
The guy just wants to be able to drive his car and is apparently out of the country. Great advice on getting what he has fixed, but it didn't answer his question.
I am absolutely no expert, but I am assuming we would need to know the specs on the current carb and engine to give him a Holley recommendation.
The OP told us that his car is a 63 and that it originally came with a Carter WCFB, which means it is a 327/250 engine. He wouldn't want anything more than a base 600cfm Holley single pumper I wouldn't think, but it is doubtful that a new Chinese made generic Holley would be any better on his car than a properly restored original WCFB.
That is why I suggested that he reach out to Phil and inquire about the availability of a restored WCFB, instead of shipping his overseas to Phil. His engine was designed to run with the WCFB and all the fuel lines, GF-90 fuel filter, choke lines, accelerator rod , etc are designed to work with the WCFB which means he wouldn't have cut up or modify anything to use it, just bolt it on.
I manged to find a rebuild kit locally , the car runs perfectly now , used JB weld to fix the broken hot air choke cover temperately , till i get the new one .
after a short drive yesterday, here is what i noticed
the shocks needs to be replaced , clicking from rear passenger wheel .
i pressure washed the car today, and damaged the starter solenoid
regards
Damaging the starter solenoid by pressure washing it would be difficult as robust as they are. If it is clicking and not engaging the starter, it could be as simple as disassembling it and cleaning (burnishing) the copper washer and contacts under the cap. Some of the old original solenoids had a clip to hold the washer which could be removed and the washer flipped over. I am guessing you may have just a bad connection on the battery terminal or the solenoid. You might want to start by cleaning the connections on the solenoid and wires.
Here are some pictures of the solenoid contacts under the cap. The contact washer can be burnished to remove the pitting or some can be flipped. Sorry about the blurry picture. The main contact in the cap can be burnished or turned 180 degrees to provide a new surface if pitted.
The replacement solenoids are relatively cheap if you need one. They were used on all GM cars of the 50s thru 80s era.
I don't have a recommendation on the clicking in the right rear. Hopefully it is a spring or something in the drum brake assembly. If not, it could be a wheel bearing or a U-joint. More investigation needed.
Where are you located? I may be able to help you with the solenoid if you can't repair yours or find a new one. I have a half dozen or more.
Ron
I believe he would need a different intake manifold, as well, if going the Holley route, unless he uses an adapter which I wouldn't recommend.
I think you are correct Dan. I have an adapter for a 64 intake that has 1-1/4" bore which is needed as the Holley and later Carter / Edelbrock carburetors have 1-9/16" venturi and throttle plates. The adapter is 9/16" thick which could also create hood clearance problems. I don't know what flow restriction the adapter would cause.
I don't recall what I used this on.
Damaging the starter solenoid by pressure washing it would be difficult as robust as they are. If it is clicking and not engaging the starter, it could be as simple as disassembling it and cleaning (burnishing) the copper washer and contacts under the cap. Some of the old original solenoids had a clip to hold the washer which could be removed and the washer flipped over. I am guessing you may have just a bad connection on the battery terminal or the solenoid. You might want to start by cleaning the connections on the solenoid and wires.
Here are some pictures of the solenoid contacts under the cap. The contact washer can be burnished to remove the pitting or some can be flipped. Sorry about the blurry picture. The main contact in the cap can be burnished or turned 180 degrees to provide a new surface if pitted.
The replacement solenoids are relatively cheap if you need one. They were used on all GM cars of the 50s thru 80s era.
I don't have a recommendation on the clicking in the right rear. Hopefully it is a spring or something in the drum brake assembly. If not, it could be a wheel bearing or a U-joint. More investigation needed.
Where are you located? I may be able to help you with the solenoid if you can't repair yours or find a new one. I have a half dozen or more.
Ron
Thanks for the help everyone.
It seems that I have 2 solenoid switch's, one mounted behind the battery tray on the fire wall. And the other one on the starter!
The one that got damaged is to first one .
I don't know why the PO did that!
I'll try to delete the firewall one and keep the original.
https://youtube.com/shorts/_F9QQ60Pa9c?si=Lu1n0R93mGmL3WZV
Hi.
My 63 came with a carter wcfb hot air carburetor.
I am thinking of replacing it with a holly carburetor and and electric choke.
Thank you.
Electric chokes are used by a lot of people. They work, but I will never have another unless I have no other option. There are a lot of reasons, but I really don't want to get into all of them. The main reason for me is that a hot air choke will pull off the choke as the engine warms and back on after it cools as much as necessary for the conditions. The electric choke starts working any time the key is on and is powered when not necessary, plus it adds a 12v wire running across the engine that doesn't look right to me. I haver to agree with the others here, the original system adjusted correctly will do the job better.
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Dennis
Carburetor recommendations
