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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 08:50 PM
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Default Pop-up headlights

I'm new here. My passenger headlight is lazy so I need to adjust using the Y stops. I can not feel or see the manual light cover adjustment after searching endlessly on my car and watching Youtube. I found out that if I disconnect my driver side headlight, the passenger side open completely. I know each has its own motor. Are the Y stops my problem? Also witth the car intact will I need to pull the front bumpers and bottom gril to be able to see and get to the motor and Y stops. All the videos I've seen have had the bumpers removed. Can you adjust the stops without removing the motor? I took picures of the mechanism with my phone and it doesn't look like Youtube...
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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 09:00 PM
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your "Y" stops are not the problem at all. so don't touch them. pull your motors and clean them off all the old grease and polish the armature and reassemble
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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 09:08 PM
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Kj - Welcome to the Corvette Forum. As Keith already pointed out, slow moving motors are not caused by an incorrectly adjusted Y-stop. The motors can be taken out without removing the bumpers or grill or hood.
It's not that hard to take them out without all those removals but it helps if you've done it before. If you post up what town or city you live in, maybe a nearby forum member can stop by to assist.
The slowness could be caused by the caked grease as you already heard.
By the way, you know that new members are expected to post up pics of their Corvettes...right? ;-).
Mike T - Prescott AZ
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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 09:11 PM
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If I’m understanding the problem, one is slow and won’t open all the way unless you disconnect the other one ?
The Y stop adjustment will not solve this, they only stop how far the bucket opens and closes, so if they both open all the way (even with one disconnected) and close flush, leave the Y stops alone.
Your problem is a common c2 issue and is more than likely, an electrical issue, not a mechanical one.
There should be a thumb wheel on the end of each motor to rotate the assembly manually.
It’s hard to see, but easy to feal, once you know where it is.
Access to the motors is easiest with the hood removed, not through the grill.


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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 09:50 PM
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What year is your car?

Slow motors are usually old thickened grease, but because one is affecting the other, like anyChevy, I'm also inclined to think it's electrical. The motors are not connected to each other other than the common power feed wires in the front harness.

Is the slow and incomplete opening while the engine's running – i.e., it's not your battery running low?

Disconnecting motor #1 affects #2, does disconnecting #2 affect #1?

The front harness is the outermost of the two firewall connectors then travels along the driver's fender to the front. Remove the motor connectors and grounds to thoroughly clean and check the contacts. For '67, the wires are yellow (up), dark green (down), and black (ground). You should be getting full battery voltage on both the yellow and green when the dash's roll-over switch is activated. If your headlight, parking/signal bulbs work fine, your front ground is more than likely good -- for '67, the ground is at the horn relay.

There's a limit switch on the light buckets, but it only turns off the warning light on the dash when the buckets fully open.

Here's @robertea 's '67 diagram - other C2s are going to be similar.
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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 10:14 PM
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Thanks for all the input. She is a 67 convertible and I live in New Orleans. Big problem is I can't find the wheels to manually open the lamps. The end of the shaft (that I can feel and see with a camera) seems to end in a 3/8 nut with no wheel. Worried if I remove the hood might have trouble getting it aligned.
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Old Jan 17, 2026 | 10:39 PM
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It could be missing
If you open the hood a little past where it normally locks, you can see a hole in the stay where you can put a screwdriver to hold it open just enough to get the motors out.
After unbolting and removing the clip, wrap a rag around them so you don’t scratch anything.



If you mark the hood hinges well and take note of any shims, its pretty easy to get it off and back on properly, if you have a helper.
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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 09:12 AM
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here's a little bigger photo of the wheels on the motors.. And the hood does not need to be removed to remove the motors.. It can be done in the space between front of hood and back of upper nose with hood up, though it is tight.. If you unbolt the hood support assembly from hood, you can raise hood vertical and tie to garage rafter to give yourself a bit more space.

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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 10:00 AM
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The Hood Support Bracket can be opened past the lock position, then insert a small screw driver into the hole at the top of the bracket. That will give about a 1 " wider gap opening between the front clip nose and the hood.

JUST BE CAREFUL TO HOLD ONTO THE HOOD WHEN REMOVING THE SCREWDRIVER!
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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 10:21 AM
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OP profile is not filled out and he doesn't state what year C2 he's working on. If he had a '67 with factory A/C, the hood will not open as some are describing because the receiver/dryer prevents the hood from opening that far. Just another reason we need as much information to provide clear help.
Welcome OP...fill out your profile in its' entirety.
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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 10:34 AM
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It may or may not help you to know they're not pop-up headlights they're rollover headlights and almost all C2's one headlight will roll over slower than the other. If it's not rolling over all the way after you try to hold the switch until it does, that's a different issue.
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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by leif.anderson93
OP profile is not filled out and he doesn't state what year C2 he's working on. If he had a '67 with factory A/C, the hood will not open as some are describing because the receiver/dryer prevents the hood from opening that far. Just another reason we need as much information to provide clear help.
Welcome OP...fill out your profile in its' entirety.
Leif,

OP mentioned that it was a 67......I had no idea that the hood could not be opened past the support point on the hood bracket with AC. I did all my HL motor work that way on my 67....
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Old Jan 19, 2026 | 10:53 AM
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Not mentioned yet, is the problem with lithium grease. It was used on headlight and power window motors. Over time, it cakes up and becomes hard as a rock. As mentioned above, open the motors, clean out the old grease and clean the armature up and reassemble with fresh synthetic grease. If the large gear shows signs of wear, you may be able to turn it over and use the portion with no wear on it. Good luck. Jerry
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