Pop-up headlights





It's not that hard to take them out without all those removals but it helps if you've done it before. If you post up what town or city you live in, maybe a nearby forum member can stop by to assist.
The slowness could be caused by the caked grease as you already heard.
By the way, you know that new members are expected to post up pics of their Corvettes...right? ;-).
Mike T - Prescott AZ
The Y stop adjustment will not solve this, they only stop how far the bucket opens and closes, so if they both open all the way (even with one disconnected) and close flush, leave the Y stops alone.
Your problem is a common c2 issue and is more than likely, an electrical issue, not a mechanical one.
There should be a thumb wheel on the end of each motor to rotate the assembly manually.
It’s hard to see, but easy to feal, once you know where it is.
Access to the motors is easiest with the hood removed, not through the grill.
Slow motors are usually old thickened grease, but because one is affecting the other, like anyChevy, I'm also inclined to think it's electrical. The motors are not connected to each other other than the common power feed wires in the front harness.
Is the slow and incomplete opening while the engine's running – i.e., it's not your battery running low?
Disconnecting motor #1 affects #2, does disconnecting #2 affect #1?
The front harness is the outermost of the two firewall connectors then travels along the driver's fender to the front. Remove the motor connectors and grounds to thoroughly clean and check the contacts. For '67, the wires are yellow (up), dark green (down), and black (ground). You should be getting full battery voltage on both the yellow and green when the dash's roll-over switch is activated. If your headlight, parking/signal bulbs work fine, your front ground is more than likely good -- for '67, the ground is at the horn relay.
There's a limit switch on the light buckets, but it only turns off the warning light on the dash when the buckets fully open.
Here's @robertea 's '67 diagram - other C2s are going to be similar.
If you open the hood a little past where it normally locks, you can see a hole in the stay where you can put a screwdriver to hold it open just enough to get the motors out.
After unbolting and removing the clip, wrap a rag around them so you don’t scratch anything.
If you mark the hood hinges well and take note of any shims, its pretty easy to get it off and back on properly, if you have a helper.
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JUST BE CAREFUL TO HOLD ONTO THE HOOD WHEN REMOVING THE SCREWDRIVER!
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Welcome OP...fill out your profile in its' entirety.
OP mentioned that it was a 67......I had no idea that the hood could not be opened past the support point on the hood bracket with AC. I did all my HL motor work that way on my 67....













