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I have a 65 Corvette that needs an ignition switch. I know the factory part 11166560 has been discontinued and it is very difficult to find one. Summit Racing sells SUM-RP21678 which is supposed to fit my car after relocating wires. Anyone have any experience with this part?
I have a 65 Corvette that needs an ignition switch. I know the factory part 11166560 has been discontinued and it is very difficult to find one. Summit Racing sells SUM-RP21678 which is supposed to fit my car after relocating wires. Anyone have any experience with this part?
I needed an Delco ignition switch for my 65 and made a WTB post right here. A member had one and I bought it. Much better off with Delco Remy parts.
I see questions about 65 corvette ignition switches on here occasionally.. What makes them so different than other years ? Is there a reason nobody has reproduced them??
Can you use another year with some rewiring or is the electrical plug in different also??
Not trying to steal this post from the OP, but seems like a good time to ask this question..... TY
WOW those are stupid crazy prices. The same 660 switch was used in all 65 Chebby models including Chevelle, Impala, and even trucks to the best of my knowledge. I have one out of a 65 Chevelle I want to disassemble and inspect and lubricate prior to selling. It ohms out well, but you never know with a used switch.
But, if you go to the other forum sites for Chebby models, you can most likely find one cheaper than those on Ebay. There were many thousands made.
Ron
The 65 switch has a different terminal lug clocking and thus plastic connector is different and it also the light bracket. You can use another year switch, but have to have the right connector and remove the terminals from the old connector and install in the new one. Not really a big job.
So would the switch in the attached pic work by wiring the terminals into the new connector??
Is the brass looking piece in the picture the light bracket? How does the 66-67 model light up its ignition switch?
Ty for the help, hope this helps with the OP's questions.
Limp, it would indeed work if it has the same positions as the original switch. You must remove the existing terminals from the existing plastic connector and insert them into the new plastic connector in the proper position. You can do this with a paper clip or small piece of metal ~ 1/16" wide x 3/64" thick or even a small screw driver if it fits the slot for the spring tab that holds the terminal in place. There are plenty of U-tubes out there to show how to do this.
One problem may be the lack or miss alignment of an indexing tab on the switch to hold it in the correct position and prevent it from rotating. Also, key cylinder / tumbler in one year switch may not fit into the new switch and thus the new cylinder / tumbler would have to be rekeyed to the original key or an aftermarket key used.
A careful comparison of the new switch is needed. The brass bracket for the light socket just slides over the switch and appears to be held in place by friction.
I would try refurbishing / burnishing the contacts in the original switch before buying an aftermarket one fits all switch.
The Saga continues. I have replaced the starter (had a spare). No change. I replaced the battery (I was going to do that anyway). No change. I replaced the battery terminals and the 4 AWG pos and neg wires and double checked all the connections (not much money). No change. Tomorrow I will run a signal wire direct from the battery to the starter. If it turns over normally I'll know it's either the switch or the signal wire running from the switch.
The purple wire on the S terminal of the solenoid comes from the ignition switch to activate the solenoid. To test the starter without the ignition switch, put a screw driver across the positive terminal on the starter and touch the S terminal if you don't have a remote starter switch. Another option is to disconnect the connector above the windshield wiper motor and apply 12vdc from the battery to the starter solenoid and hold it on the battery to see how it cranks.
Of course pull the coil wire and make sure the car is in neutral.
Also pull the air cleaner and make sure the engine isn't flooding due to a bad float. If it is flooding, it may be hydro locked.
If the starter spins good bypassing the switch, you could have a corroded connection in the bulkhead connector or at the ignition switch.
Just more ideas.
65 Ignition Switch
