I am pretty sure I know the answer, but the PW on the passenger's side quit although I could hear the motor try to start and the courtesy lights dim, it wouldn't move.
So, I tried readjusting the window track as I thought it was in a bind. A few hours later, it still would not work.
Pulled the horse shoe to access the switch. PIA as the wires are short and trapped under the original carpet padding. After getting the switch out, the window worked perfectly in both directions. Then I opened the door fully and motor dimmed the lights in the up mode and nothing in the down mode with the window 1/2 up or down. Closed the door a bit and window works in both directions. So I am guessing a bad ground wire or a bad connection at the motor. So:
Is there a way to access the connector at the motor to remove the wiring without disassembly of the vent window frame and pulling the motor? I cannot see it in a mirror.
Also, the wires for the switch are trapped beneath the original padding glued to the floor under the carpet. I assume they go up to the dash wiring. I cannot pull them to get slack without ripping the padding and it crumbling. Thus, to reinstall the switch in the horse shoe, it is one quarter turn at a time to install and tighten the screws. Any thoughts here?
Thanks,
Ron

 

so did you by pass the switch to make them motors work?

 

If you hit the switch and the lights dim I would guess that it is not the ground not completing the circuit. If the ground connection wasn't good the lights woundn't dim. I'd guess the wires near the door hinge have cracked with age and flexing and are shorting. As I said, just a guess.

 

I am afraid you are correct about the cracked wires, but of course they are in the rubber loom to the door. It makes sense as when the door is wide open, the motor doesn't work in one direction and only tries to start in the other direction. When I partially close the door, the motor works in both directions. I can only assume I have to pull the motor to get to the connector as I can't see it in a mirror.
I pulled the switch and it is fine, but still have the same results with the door wide open.
arm weather is near, I'll put it down and leave it unless the Goofy Position Supervisor gets cold.

 

I would do a continuity test before pulling any wires or motors

 

Don't think I can get to the connector on the motor to disconnect it without pulling the motor and window mechanisms.

 

I had the same issue on my '66. A previous owner had, for some reason, cut and spliced the wires just as they entered the hinge conduit. The symptoms were just as you've described and I found that several of the splices were poorly done and causing the problem. I did end up removing the motors, and as you have found, it's accomplished mostly by Braille, especially getting the electrical connectors unplugged from the motors. Those plastic electrical plug just crumbled on mine. I don't remember having to remove the vent window mechanisms to get the motors out. Sorry I don't have any great words of wisdom for you. It is not a fun job.

Ted

 

Remove enough stuff so that you can gain access to each end of every individual wire. Grasp either end of each wire and pull against the middle. When one feels like it stretches you have found the broken wire.

 

Every good mechanic starts with a visual inspection. Wish I had remembered that as I found the green wire (up) broken at the grommet thru the kick panel. It must have had one strand still making contact when the door was not fully open. Soldered in a new wire and all is well.
Thanks for the help. This is probably pretty common with these C2s as it is only a 14ga stranded wire and not fine strands.
Live and Learn, I hope. Tomorrow I will put up my tools and put on the kick panel.
Thanks Again,
Ron

Look closely at the green wire where it enters the grommet.