When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You sent your 7375 unit #2940 and 022 distributor here in January of 2005 for a repair and calibration. This service isn't a rebuild and it didn't improve the cosmetic appearance. The scope was to "find and fix any mechanical defects affecting the performance of a running unit". I installed several Heli-Coil inserts, a new siphon-breaker pill valve in the fuel bowl wall, a choke butterfly plate with a window, lighter distributor advance springs, an Antonicelli rebuilt Cranking Signal Valve, a new Linder repro spider, and a new Thorpe repro enrichment diaphragm. I calibrated your unit with a manometer and test drove it ~30 miles using my own '63.
The next time I saw your unit was in October of 2019. You brought your unit here because it was leaking gas at the spill valve cover. I installed some Viton o-rings and re-calibrated your unit using my own '63 and 022 distributor. By then I'd equipped my test cars with air/fuel gauges wired to Oxygen sensors in both exhaust pipes.
If you'll call me this afternoon, I'd be glad to help. Please don't take anything apart before then. I just need a little time to pull your unit's records and note all the tests you've already run.
You're right, Chuck, I've closed my business and sold most of my leftover parts. But I'm not dead or even disabled. I still help people with their FI systems by phone almost every week. My phone advice is free to anyone who asks me for it. I especially intend to support my past customers for the rest of my life.
Jerry
(251) 478-4003
Thanks, Jerry. I'll give you a call this afternoon.
I haven't disassembled anything yet. I do plan to swap out the condenser in the distributor later today, "just in case".
I have a sneaky suspicion that my problem is the shut off solenoid. I can't hear it "click". Car behaves like it's out of gas. Not sure (can't remember) if I got the solenoid from you or from John DeGregory. It's been on the car for a number of years.
Now, I can start it, and it'll run for 3-5 seconds, then quit. I can fire it right up again, and it'll run for 2-3 seconds.
Talked to Jerry B yesterday and he walked me through a few things.
He asked me to start the car, and then spray starting fluid (ether) directly into the air meter. ( I had the air cleaner removed). The car would run indefinitely as long as I was spraying ether. When I stopped, the car stalled. That eliminated any ignition/spark problems. So, it's definitely a fuel problem.
Tried a few other tricks, but I needed extra hands, eyes, and ears to help help with the other tests. So, two of my friends are coming over late this morning. I'll be calling Jerry back and we'll run through a few more tests when I have help.
We think we have things figured out. First of all, I'd like to thank Jerry Bramlett, who walked me/us through various testing procedures on the phone.
Secondly, I'd like to thank my two friends Fred R (vettefred on the forum) and David V for their help.
After going through some tests, and not getting the unit to run on its own, We removed the unit from the car. Jerry B was thinking it might be the spill valve, and the unit has to come off to access that. So, we removed the unit and put it on my workbench. Started to disassemble it. I should mention that with six "old ears", we all heard the cutoff valve clicking, so that was not the problem.
David V was looking down in the fuel meter after we had taken the "lid" off. David commented: "Wow, that link down there is loose, just flopping around".... It was. Closer inspection showed that the pin that retains the axle link had walked out, and was barely hanging on the outside of the fuel meter, held in place only by the enrichment diaphragm rod.
We carefully lined up the axle link and tapped the pin back in. All is tight again. Jerry B told me that originally a lead ball was used to cover the hole where the pin enters. He suggested doing that again, but I have decided to use some JB Weld, after cleaning things up real well. With the unit off the car, I can/will do some cleaning/detailing. It's Easter weekend, so we won't get around to putting the car back together until next week.
I had never heard of such a problem. I've attached a few photos.
You can see the axle link pin sticking out at about 12:00 o'clock in the first photo.
Good work Chuck! They are very complicated and delicate instruments, with lots of small, fragile, moving parts. Here is my FI guru, Bill Wilhelm, doing one of mine a while back.....
I'm back on the road again. Got the FI unit reinstalled and running. Sounds good in the garage...nice and smooth. Raining here in Florida, so I didn't take a test drive yet.
My friends Fred R (vettefred) and David V came over to give me a hand this morning.
Thanks again to Jerry Bramlett for walking me through the test procedures.
I did install a new main control diaphragm and new gaskets, where I could use them. Never messed with the enrichment diaphragm or the power/economy settings.
Finally got to drive the car today, around my block. 2 "laps" at 3/4 mile each. Car is running rough. Surging. I played with the idle mix screw, finally setting it at 2.5 turns "out", where it was before.
The only thing I changed was the main control diaphragm. With a new gasket. Wondering if the new diaphragm is stiffer than the one that was in the car?
Starting to rain again, so I won't be driving it till maybe tomorrow.
Tomorrow, I'm gonna remove the main control diaphragm I installed and replace it with the old one I removed. That shouldn't take too long. Nothing visibly was wrong with the old diaphragm Maybe the replacement I used is too stiff? Too loose?
I plan to use a bit of Permatex or Indian Head gasket cement to hold the old diaphragm in place.... then put a new gasket over it, and tighten things up again. That is the only thing I changed. Nothing to lose by trying the "old stuff".
Tomorrow, I'm gonna remove the main control diaphragm I installed and replace it with the old one I removed. That shouldn't take too long. Nothing visibly was wrong with the old diaphragm Maybe the replacement I used is too stiff? Too loose?
I plan to use a bit of Permatex or Indian Head gasket cement to hold the old diaphragm in place.... then put a new gasket over it, and tighten things up again. That is the only thing I changed. Nothing to lose by trying the "old stuff".
Chuck,
Can you post pictures of the two diaphragms you are using? Compare them to the pic in posting #13.
I always install main diaphragms bone dry. However, if Jerry suggests a sealant, follow his advice.
