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Old Apr 16, 2026 | 07:58 PM
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Default L71 electrical

Question….owners of TI big block cars…..what replacement ignition coils are you using. I’ve upgraded the TI box guts to the newer solid state components if that makes any difference. Distributor and plug wires are OEM L71 components.
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Old Apr 16, 2026 | 11:07 PM
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I’ve been using a cheap Summit coil that meets the TI coil resistance specs.


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Old Apr 16, 2026 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66
I’ve been using a cheap Summit coil that meets the TI coil resistance specs.

Guessing no issues on yours huh? I’m using an original Echlin IC12 and the upgrade is in the TI amplifier box on the radiator support. Having an issue with the car shutting down and I’m suspicious of the coil overheating. I do have an original 207 coil but I suspect that gets cooked to. Gonna try running the car with the lid off of the coil box ignition shield.
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Old Apr 17, 2026 | 07:47 AM
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Runs good. Several others on here use it too, or carry it as a spare. My car has the upgraded amplifier board in its box too. If your car restarts after the coil cools down (might try putting a damp cloth on it when it happens) then it’s a good chance it’s the coil. I’ve had issues in the past with internal board grounding (I believe) but since working on that it’s been fine. My car would start on the key but die as soon as I released it.
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Old Apr 17, 2026 | 10:41 AM
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This occurs after the engine reaches normal operating temp and is being driven for several miles. It’ll sit and idle perfectly all day though. Pretty sure it’s the epoxy filled amplifier aftermarket unit that’s installed. The car does have spark because I can fire it but it’ll sputter and die after a few seconds of either trying to idle or trying to drive, almost like it’s running out of fuel (but there’s a half tank). When this happens I do get strong jets of fuel into the center carb but I suppose that doesn’t indicate the absence of vapor lock. Correct vented cap on the tank too. A very good friend of mine who knows these cars inside & out is thinking it’s the coil getting too hot. I can say that when this occurs the coil is almost untouchable it’s that hot. So is the main coil wire. Not sure if running the car with the chrome ignition shielding (or maybe just without the chrome top cover) would help. I’m going to put another coil in (guessing another new Echlin IC12) and I’ll absolutely be sure to run the green circuit board replacement in the amp box. After that I’m stumped. Weak fuel pump (this original one was rebuilt by Fred in California when we built the engine). There’s a new gas tank in the car (my original with fully in tact tank sheet in safe storage). Or could it be the ignition switch going bad???
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