I just got done replacing the seals on my intake. Had an oil leak that I couldn't continue with. So I get everything back together and the car does not want to idle down right. MY questions:
I think I got the distributor back in the same position. I noted the position of the rotor when I took it apart and tried to put back in the same position. Is it possible i got it very close and but not exactly where it was? I didn't move the engine at all. It seemed to me that the ditributor would only go back in where I wanted it or noticeably different than where it was. Could i have gotten it off just a wee bit and thrown the timing off. I did re-time the car after getting everything together. It is just that the car acts like it did when I got it and then the timing was way to advanced. I have it set about 10* ahead right now. (327/300) After taking off It runs great almost instant acceleration. But it does not idle just right. You need to rev it a little to even let off the clutch or it wants to die right down. Before when I set the timing to 10* it would idle great and but seemed like it had just a little acceleration lag at low RPM. NOw it is at 10* and acts like it is advanced. Could I have been just a little off when putting back the distributor? And if so does anyone have a tip on the best way to get it set properly?
THe other change I made while the engine was apart was with the carb. Before I had a oil fill tube that was broken at the PCV connection. SO the carb line was cut off and plugged. I replace the fill tube and put on a new line to the carb. Could this have thrown off my carb adjustment and caused the same problem? Doesn't seem right to me.
I think it is more likely the timing. Just hoping someone could give me a good way to check.
Thanks



[Modified by tl-vette, 11:29 PM 3/8/2003]

 

Sounds like a vacuum problem to me. Pinch off that line and see if it clears up. You can easily check the distributor. Manually set the pointer at TDC. then remove the distributor cap and carefully check the pointer of the rotor. See how it lines up with the proper plug wire connection. It should be very close to even with the terminal. If it is far ahead, you probably have it a half knotch off.

 

tl-vette, the fact that you set and verified timing with a light seems to eliminate timing as the problem. The carb may have been adjusted to compensate for the removal of the PCV line and now needs to be readusted to compensate for it's reconnection. If the car is stock and has an original type carb, set it to factory specs an dgo from there. Another possibility is that a vacuum leak was created at the intake manifold or carb during reassembly.

 

Did you set the initial timing with the vacuum advance signal line removed and plugged?

Is the PCV system properly configured for your engine IAW the application shop manual or AIM?

Duke


[Modified by SWCDuke, 10:55 PM 3/8/2003]

 

It was a the PCV vacuum. I plugged the line and it idled right down. Thanks for the tip.....but....here is the help I really need.
I drove the car yesterday after putting everything back to gether and the oil leak was fixed. Drove it twice as a matter of fact while messing with the idle.
Then I take it out today and it starts leaking like crazy at the back of the intake still. I used a silicone RTV with the seals. Did I not let the silicone set up long enough? The front seal didn't leak. It is hard to tell if the rear one moved on my when I tightened the manifold down. (30ft/lbs) Did I not use enough silicone? It was pushing out the sides a little. Didn't want to put so much it went way insode the engine. I took it all back apart tonight and pull out all the gaskets and seals. i am going to get another set and start over. It was cold in my garage. Think I should have waited longer after sticking the seals down to the block. The silicone seemed to stick to the manifold and block but not to the rubber seals. Should I have used another type of silicone? I used the black automotive RTV. I could sure use some help. I have an aluminum manifold (65 serial number) I would hate to go thru this all again. :mad
Thanks
TL

 

If you have an aluminum manifold you need to use a paper type intake gasket (MrGasket, etc) Also do NOT use the rubber end gaskets at all. You use a good hi-temp RTV only like UltraGrey or UltraBlack, put on about 1/4-3/8" bead and continue up the heads about 1/2". Here's the key........24 hours wait before you fire it up.

 

The problem that you are experiencing with the gasket is probably related to the ventilation valve problem. If you have the line to the valve plugged, it will cause pressure inside the engine. It will come out somewhere. I think you need to start with a new PCV valve and adjust the carb accordingly. That with the new gaskets should solve the leaking problem.