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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Dropping The Diff......
Can the bolts that hold the diff on the crossmember be gotten too with out having to drop the crossmember and the diff together???
And..since the rubber cushion mounts on the rear diff crossmember are bocoo exspensive...what are the chances that they will have to be replaced after the crossmember is down. Or should I replace them do to age anyway??
I have heard that the crossmember is tough to get down due to it's tenency to stick to it's mounting points..which means using a "JOHNSON BAR" :banghead:
Hey Mark, be careful using the tool called a "johnson" bar, it could hurt. :D Here's what I did, grunted and groaned with a friend after copious amount of lub and the crossmember didn't budge. Second approach, I estimated the location of the crossmember to diff. bolts, pulled the carpet out of the back and cut neat holes in the floor. I was in the process of replacing the carpet anyway. Shipped the diff. to Bair's and the whole problem solved, saved the plugs and epoxied them back later. When I'm long gone someone may discover this sin. :cheers:
Hit the crossmember with some PB Blaster for a few days before disassembly. You might still need a pry bar or crowbar, but just be careful and you'll be OK.
If you have some help, I have also removed several rear axles leaving the rear cover in place. Drop the exhaust (unless you have side pipes) remove the spring bolts to the t arms, remove front bushing bolt, remove side shaft and drive shaft u joints, and unbolt. You WILL need some help reinstalling, even if it's just someone to watch that you don't damage the gasket during reinstall.
I dropped my diff and crossmember as a unit and my mounts (original) were fine. I'll reuse them when I put it all back together. I started spraying the mounts with penetrating oil several weeks in advance of disassembly and the crossmember popped right off, after a few minutes of cautious prying with an 18" crowbar.
I don't have much to add, but I wanted to show off my new signature. :D
I had my body off when I removed my dif, so it was infinitely easier. I know the bolts can be accessed with the body on, because Bubba had twisted one off.
I soaked the cushions with PB Blaster, and the cm came off with a bit of prying.
One cushion got buggered in the process, but the other is ok. Holler if you need it.
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Re: Dropping The Diff...... (Kid_Again)
Thanks guys for the replies. But What is "PB Blaster"???? Whare do you get it.
What is the PB Thang??
So I asume the best way to drop the diff would be with the crossmember attached.. with the weight of the diff on the crossmemer I assume it will help pull on the crossmember to help break it lose. :cheers:
...no, on most midyears, the weight of the diff alone will not cause the crossmember to drop - you will need a VERY large crow bar for assistance....i've found that dripping wd-40 into the top of the crossmember sombrero gasket will, over a week or so, cause the gasket to release (usually suddenly and violently) but you probably don't have that time
Mark, of the many mid year/shark diff cross member removals I have done/participated in, I have only seen one (so far) that absolutely would not budge (ultimately took an air chisel to it). Nearly all of them would release with verying degrees of persuasion (from nearly nothing up to big whacks with a bigger hammer). You may be surprised how easy it ~might~ come off. :cheers:
An easy way is to use a 5 inch 2 jaw gear puller. Just loosen each crossmember bolt a few turns but leave it in and run the gear puller screw onto the bolt and it will pop right down and the bolt will hold it in. 5 minutes each side and you are done.
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Re: Dropping The Diff...... (69ttop502)
Quote*
An easy way is to use a 5 inch 2 jaw gear puller. Just loosen each crossmember bolt a few turns but leave it in and run the gear puller screw onto the bolt and it will pop right down and the bolt will hold it in. 5 minutes each side and you are done.
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Now that sounds like a great idea...............I will give that one a try !!!
I did this once by prying it out to replace the rubber mounts. Years after that, Joe on the NCRS board said it is easy if you use the second largest green pry bar that they sell at Orchard Supply stores in CA. I had my sister in law bring one to Montana when we hiked together so I could have one. The job is a pita - but doable.
Every time I removed the diff after that - I left the crossmember in the car. Is there a problem with the crossmember? I only pull the diff when I (have too much fun and) break the gears. :jester
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10, '14-'15
Re: Dropping The Diff...... (magicv8)
Heh Magicv8,
The diff is leaking out the yokes and since I am rebuilding the T arms I thought I would send the diff out for a rebuild with them to Baird's. They do the whole unit. So I am sending he rear cover back with the diff as a complete assembley.
So out comes the crossmember.... dropping the complete unit at one shot.
Since you can't get to the diff to member bolts without chopping a hole in he rear deck floor I'm gonna try the 2 jaw puller thing...and see what happens.
If it doesn't come out easy I will use the Crane method as pictured above...