Paul L

I have a 1967 327/300. I recently acquired a #3890490 Al intake manifold from an EBay auction and have cleaned it up (see pic). I wish to go for the L79 look. I do not intend to go for L79 internals such as cam. The valve covers are already installed (again, see pic). Any tips on this exchange? Anything that will trip me up? A few thoughts to begin:
-gaskets are Fel-Pro MS 9617
-will use Permatex Copper on intake ends
-new carb/intake gasket from Dr. Rebuild (is there a metal spacer also?)
-new upper rad hose from Dr. Rebuild
-new 180 degree Stant SuperStat
-will use Permatex 2 on intake bolts
-have ARP 434-2001 SS fastener/bolt kit
-believe torque is 35psi, sequentially as per shop manual
-temp sensor is on other side of t-stat housing; will wiring reach?
-no oil splash shield on Al intake; will that on Fe fit?
-believe carb is the same and will fit: no problems with hood clearance
-any problems with throttle linkages, springs, etc?

I appreciate your comments before I get into this project!





[Modified by paul79, 7:47 AM 6/21/2003]


[Modified by paul79, 7:48 AM 6/21/2003]

JohnZ

No metal carb baffle needed - the aluminum manifold doesn't have the "hot-slot" that requires it. You'll need a longer choke rod, as the carb sits higher (Paragon has them, their #1838K). Can't remember if that manifold came with an oil heat shield or not, but it's not a big deal. :thumbs:

Paul L

I never thought of the choke rod. Thanks! The holes are there for the oil splash shield.

*Edit*-The splash shield from a 1979 Al intake fits! I have a couple in the basement.


[Modified by paul79, 10:58 AM 6/21/2003]

Nicky71

Wow, I wish mine was that clean underhood.

If you need any pics of the linkage, etc and how it all goes together, I should be able to get some off of my car later this week.

nick_liarakos@yahoo.com

Paul L

Thanks Nick. I will have to locate that choke rod before I start. I hate paying suppliers $15.00 shipping for a $6.00 item! Perhaps one of the Forum members has a spare and can mail it to me....

Jeff Garner

I did the same swap on my 66 this past winter. Not a big deal, just had find all the right parts. With the aluminum intake, it'll take a different crankcase vent pipe. It mounts to the intake in a different place from the cast iron intake and is slightly longer due to the intake being taller. I changed to the 350 HP chromed fuel line from pump to carb.
The upper radiator hose calls for a different part #, but I can't figure why. Everything else associated adapted fine. Big improvements in the looks when I lift the hood.

Paul L

Jeff,
That's exactly the kind of info I am looking for. As usual these projects turn out to be a little more complicated than they appear at first glance. And more expensive. I see that vent tube is $52.00 from Paragon....

I have the rad hose. Will I need a longer pump to carb fuel line?




[Modified by paul79, 3:24 PM 6/21/2003]

Vetterodder

Be sure to mark the position of the distributor and rotor before you remove it. Put a mark on the housing that aligns with the rotor and also note the exact position of the distributor in relation to some landmark like an intake bolt, something on the firewall, etc.. When you put the distributor back you'll know exactly where it needs to be and your timing should be very close to where it was.

Make sure all the sealing surfaces are squeaky clean as the sealers don't stick to oil. I like to use a shop vac while scraping gaskets, nozzle in one hand and scraper in the other. The longer you can let the Permatex set before starting the engine the better because, until it does set, oil can disolve it.

Paul L

I was thinking about 24 hours for the Permatex to set. BTW I was wrong on the oil splash shield: the rivet holes line up but the 1979 unit is not deep enough for the cross-over hump. So I will be looking for one of those also.

*Edit*-Any problems that will arise without using that oil splash plate? About 1,500 miles per year. Just cruising, no hard use.





[Modified by paul79, 8:14 PM 6/21/2003]

Paul L

I got the oil splash shield sorted out today. With the usual filing, grinding and assorted injuries. Not too much blood flew. Any last tips on components before I order from Paragon?

Paul L

Jeff et al. Here is my shopping list. Please add to it as needed. Thanks!
-longer choke rod
-crankcase vent tube and hose
-intake vacuum fitting for PB and PowerGlide
-L79 fuel line-pump to carb

Paul L

I have ordered these parts and will take pics of the swap.

66427-450

thermo housing?
don't put the orange one on the alum intake, at least strip the paint off of it :-)

PS: AND, keep every original/correct part, the next guy may want it "correct"


[Modified by 66427-450, 12:54 PM 6/25/2003]

White62

Paul, beautiful engine bay! You're a man after my own heart...2 "absolute musts" on a C1/C2 are an aluminum intake and finned valve covers, original or not!

Definitely save all the original pieces.

In addition to all the good posts above, I would first dry fit the manifold onto the engine with gaskets before final installation. Make sure all surfaces fit properly with no gaps (never know when a used manifold may have been machined to fit milled heads), and even loosely thread in the bolts to make sure all is well. You could also set the carb and air cleaner on top as a final check for hood clearance.

With some hesitation, I will also mention this, although I don't endorse it because I haven't tried it: Some people recommend leaving out the end seals and using a heavy bead of silicone sealer across the front and rear surfaces. They claim it seals better and eliminates the possibility of the rubber end seals squishing out of position. Maybe someone else who has tried this will comment. In any event, there is no doubt that the Fel-Pro gasket set is the best.

Tom

Paul L

I purchased a repro L79 t-stat housing from Dr. Rebuild. You can see it in the pick above. It is not "correct" but I have no doubt it will be functional.

Paul L

Thanks Tom. I have the original valve covers (steel) and they are pristine. I use Permatex Copper on the ends of the manifold and Permatex 2 on the bolts. This hard worked for me in the past.

I tend to do a dry run as you have suggested but it never occurred to me that there might be a problem with hood clearance. The L79 did not have the BB hood....But I will watch out for that.

BTW I ordered the L79 pump-carb gas line from Paragon also. But it is on backorder so the project will be delayed somewhat.




[Modified by paul79, 3:13 PM 6/25/2003]