If you have a crack on the passenger side hump right near the handle, how hard is that to fix? I assume the best solution is to replace the whole dash, which ive heard isnt as bad as it sounds? If i were to remove that piece, how much would come off?

 

I'm not certain I understand your question. The "humps" (pads) on the passenger and driver side are separate pieces from the "T"-shaped dash frame. I think vendors carry the pads, but they are expensive ($225ea+) and require several bolts and a lot of special clips (about 15 per pad) to attach to the dash frame... if you bought only one, it may not match the color of the old remaining pad. I haven't removed one, but I suspect it is not a simple task because of all the other stuff under the dash that likely gets in the way, so the entire dash probably has to come out.

The dash frame itself can be "reskinned" with a vinyl replacement sold by vendors like Long Island Corvette or Dr Rebuild (seee below). I think the dash does need to be removed from the car to accomplish this. At one time there used to be "skins" available for the pads as well, but I'm not sure they're still offered... check with some vendors.

If the split isn't bad, you might be able to find a trim shop that can do a spot repair... won't be perfect, nor long-lasting, but it may be less noticeable, sort of like a paint scratch that has been retouched with a brush.

Another approach is to try to find a used pad still in good shape (about half the price of a new one) and use spray vinyl dye (in as close to the original color as you can get) to refinish both pads so they'll match.

If the entire dash has to come out, I think I might opt for new pads to avoid having to do that work again anytime soon! If I were doing a restoration and the dash was already out for other reasons, I'd probably consider re-dyeing used ones.
http://docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/DASH-PAD.HTML


[Modified by waynec, 6:48 PM 7/17/2003]

 

I've tried the self-help vinyl repairs without any success. The commercial guys may have some tricks and products that get a better result. Stay away from the skins, they are not worth it and won't look right. Best bet is to save up for a rainy day and strip out the dash, refinish any gages, glove box door etc. that needs done, and replace both pads. :steering:

 

There are specialty shops that can recover the dash pads using a vacuum process that seems to yield pretty good results. I doubt the you can use one of the dash skins available from the catalog vendors and have it come out really "right".
The whole pad can be changed out, though you have to pretty well disassemble the dash to do it. Most of the vendors have repo pads priced at around $280 each. That's expensive if you have to replace both. You may be able to replace the rt hand only without removing the dash. I have this same situation and I haven't gotten around to attacking it yet. My 67 had the interior color changed by some previous owner, and he used a rt hand pad out of a 65/66. I got a new repo on eBay for a little under $200, buty haven't gotten around to installing it yet. I suspect I'm going to have to dye both the old and new pad in order to get them to match, so I'm not going to tackle it until I'm in the mood to remove the entire dash and do everything.

 

all very good to know. my knowledge of these cars is constantly growing. thanks for the info.

 

...the skins are no longer made

...i did my passenger side dash pad replacement in three nights....took a full day to learn how to remove the clips - DO NOT press the ears together, pull them apart....a very simple but time consuming resto

..remove the entire glove box assembly, the radio and side panel and you're good to go

 

Taking the old pads off and putting the new ones on is the easiest part of the job; not that any of it is too terribly difficult. Once you make the commitment and remove the dash it’s all down hill from there. Here are a couple of shots of the underside of the dash pad; you see what Kid_Again is talking about with the clips. How they work did not come to me on the first try either. :rolleyes:
Andy B

 

...excellent picture which shows why the clip ears must be separated, not pushed together - they will dig in deeper if done so