What is your recipe from a bare glass body to ready to paint. I was going to use a sprayable polyester over my bare glass body. I have most of the bodywork done. I read recently not to get body filler wet?? Well that means your not suppose to wet sand sprayable polyester. They are both a polyester product. This was substantiated by my local body supply store. Although, if you give it a chance to air dry (he says). Well the article I read said water is absorbed into polyester like a sponge. I'm not sure I trust this? I have PPG, Dupont,andSikkens in my area. What do you suggest to use over the bare glass and for a heavy surfacer so I can wet sand. Last time on my 57 I used Spieshecker catalyzed primer surfacer, and liked it , but it is too big of a hassle to get now. I had it shipped in from Nebraska. Any suggestions are appreciated! THANKS :D :smash:

 

I am a couple of weeks from painting and have the same question. From the Eckler's paint video, which I think is about five years old, Al Sowash who is a Bloomington Gold senior instructor suggests:

DP90LF - Epoxy Primer (over bare fiberglass)
DZ7 – Acrylic Primer Surfacer
DDL Green Label – Acrylic Lacquer

My paint lady (PPG Platinum Distributor) suggested

DP90LF - Epoxy Primer (over bare fiberglass)
then
DBC – Basecoat Clearcoat – (her first choice but I do not want BC/CC)
or DCC – Acrylic Urethane (can be worked like lacquer - somewhat).

So it becomes the lacquer or something else question.

Paint lady definitely suggested not using lacquer because it would not last. Majority of people in my NCRS chapter say Acrylic Urethane (including a number of judges). The club's paint expert say use the Urethane and then sand and buff it and it will look like lacquer. Judges seem to be saying it does not need to be lacquer, just look like lacquer.

If my comments seem confused, it is because I am confused. (Odd days I plan on lacquer, even days I plan on urethane :confused: )

Any comments guys (or gals)?

Dave
:cheers:


[Modified by Dave McDufford, 7:45 AM 7/31/2003]

 

The main problem with getting the body filler wet is that it does suck in the water and on a metal car that is very bad because it will start to rust under the surface and come out later. Also if all of the water does not evaperate out it will cause small blisters in the paint becuase its trapped and cant get out. Heat will cause it to expand and pop the paint. Dont watersand until you get to the last coats of catalized or urathane primers because they seal the surface and the water cant get under it.

I finished my 67 a couple of weeks ago and this is what I did to prep it. I have been useing the same materials for years and have had great results.

After the body filler and fiberglass has been blocked into shape with 80 grit I shot three coats of gelcoat over all of the bodywork and exposed fiberglass that did not have a good layer of gelcoat still on it. This helps seal and lock down the glass and bodywork. Let it cure for at least three days in the sun, longer is better. Block the gelcoat agian with 80 grit then I spray three coats of featherfill over the entire car and let that cure in the sun for at least three days then block agian with 80 grit. Some people have reported they had problems with featherfill but I have had none to date and have been useing it for years. I scratch with 80 grit, spray it on, and block it with 80 grit so that there are no adhesion problems.

The body shapeing part is finished and now you move to the surface smoothing phase. I shoot three medium wet coats of Slicksand catalized primer, let it cure for three days in the sun and then block that with 180 grit. Spray three more medium wet coats of Slicksand and agian let it cure for three days in the sun. Then lightly spray a mist of black laquer from a spray can over the entire surface so when you block it the black will show you all of the surface imperfections. Water block the entire surface with 320 to 400 grit until all of the black is gone and all of the orange peel is gone. Let the car dry thoroughly, Wipe it down with Presol, tack it off and your ready for paint.

I used Dupont Chromabase BC/CC and after it cured for a week I watersanded it with 2000 grit. Then polished it to a glass finish.

For years I used Laquer and loved it because I could get a perfectly flat finish with it and man what a shine. There is the durability problem and then the problem that I cant even get it here. I have been told they are not making it anymore and there are still some colors in stock that you can get but very limited selection, like black or white. INMO there is no finish like a laquer finish but that is for the top dollar trailer queen and not a driver paint unless you can repair it yourself on a regular bases. The base coat clear coat systems are the most durable and easiest to use. It also buffs out very well. I shot mine in my garage and what little trash got in the clear was sanded and polished out with no problem other then the huge bucket of elbo grease that is needed whenever you wetsand and polish.

Both Jeff Garner and uwishtobeme(Dave) have seen the car, among others on the forum and you can ask them the quality and appearance of the paint. The car is about 2 weeks from drivability and I cant wait. Good luck and I hope this helps. REVIVER:auto: :flag

 

REVIVER is the MAN! I've seen first hand what he did with the 67. He did what I didn't think could be done. A sculpter and an artist. I'm totally impressed. If you need bodywork and paint advice, you can count on it being right. When he gets through with the 67, I'm gonna beg him for some advice/help on a metal car.


[Modified by Jeff Garner, 7:50 PM 7/31/2003]

 

OH stop Yur Makin Me Blush

Thanks for the compliment Jeff. I just hope to get mine up to par with yours some day soon. Ive got to put in the headlight motors and grill. Then those bumpers go on this weekend. I am takeing it over to have the reducers welded on the side pipes and get the side pipes mounted and then its paddle time (CLEAR) :seeya :flag :thumbs:

 

What bumpers? HaHa. When you get your brilliant blue on the road, I won't even be noticed anymore. Dave and I would love to see another midyear on the road besides ours. We went to a car show Saturday, ran into a big down pour with the tops down, BIG drops smacking me in the forehead, people looking at us like we're nuts, just passing everything on the road but the gas pump. Dave downshifted to 3rd at 65mph on a Honda with a 3" fart can and scared the crap out of him.

 

:lolg: :rofl: :lolg: LMAO Dave did say the harder it rains the faster he goes and refuses to put the top up. Three inch fart can, thats too funny, got to love them side pipes! :thumbs:

Its killin me that I am missing all the fun and its driving me to work harder on mine but this heat is killin me worst. That and the money tree needs some fertalizer bad. :lol:

 

I have to agree Jerry (REVIVER) Has my vote as the man to talk to about body work... The 7 has the lines to kill for and you can shave in the paint..

BTW Jeff get in line buddy..

Fart cans we don't need no stinkin fart cans we got us some bona fida side pipes.. Garantied to scare the stink out of those ricers..

 

Hey Dave
you did remember to pull the drain plugs after you got her back to port right? :seeya :flag

 

reviver: I checked today at the local body supply house. Slicksand is being replaced by High Speed Polyester Primer Surfacer, no name Evercoat. Featherfill is history according to the man at the store I went to. It was replaced by Slicksand and now it is being discontinued. Can't keep up! What size of nozzle does your primer/gel coat gun have? What brand/model of gun did you use for your paint application. THANKS! :thumbs:

 

Not trying to hijack but you know J. I don't slow down so there wasn't even a drop inside.. So to those who say their tops leak poopie Just leave it down and keep your foot on the go pedal.. called today btw.. Dave....

 

I just bought 2 gal of featherfill and 2 gal of slicksand not more than six weeks ago. Featherfill has been on the market for a very long time so there are several replacements out there. That is how I found Slicksand. You can substitute the slicksand for the featherfill and I had planned on doing that in the future. The paint supply stores all want to sell you the new extremely expensive primers and are telling people that the others are not good. I priced Dupont epoxy primer and I told them how many times I had planned on blocking the car out and they told me all I needed was 2 coats of primer and it would be ready for paint. I told them I had an idea what I was doing and that I would need 2 to 3 gallons of primer to get the number of coats that I needed and would be blocking alot of it off. They insisted that slicksand was no good and I needed to buy the $200.00 a gallon kit which would be $400.00 to $600.00 just for primer. I am not saying that the newer primers are not good, I am saying that as long as people are going to pay these outragious prices for paint and primer the companies will just keep raising the prices.

I built a show quality 1973 Dodge Challenger 340 Ralley four years ago and shot it with the same slicksand and it held up GREAT all this time. Even in the hot sun and I drove it every day to and from work. It was exposed to all of the year round elements and it never popped, cracked, blistered or lost adhesion in any way. I used to use red oxide laquer primer for years and that was under laquer paint on fiberglass Vettes and didnt have any problems with them. I like the Slicksand because it costs $59.00 a gallon, sands very nicely without clogging the paper, cleans up as well as any other primer and can be sprayed over 80 grit as well as 320 grit scratches. It is a high fill primer that works for me and I love it. I have tested it on a metal car in the very hot sun and it just kepts on performing. I even painted a set of chrome bumpers and the paint chipped in very small areas from the rocks hitting them but I never saw any chrome, now thats adhesion. It is thick so I reduce it 10 to 15 percent with acitone. I use my good old trusty Binks number 7 gun with the high volume needle and cap that I have had for about 25 years. I shoot the Chromabase with an HVLP gravity feed gun.

You have heard the saying "They just dont make them like they used to" Well just because the paint is some fancy new paint system does not mean that it is better then the old systems it just means they can call it new and fancy so we will think it is OK to spend 4 times more on it. The not so new paints are still much more expensive then I paid for them 20 years ago but that is just normal inflation and they have to deal with OSHA, EPA and other new reg's so I will give them that. Paint suppliers are in buissness to sell you paint. If they can talk you out of buying the great cheaper older paint, and in to the very expensive new fancy system they go home richer and you poorer. Remember that 75% of a finish is the prep you do with your own two hands, and only 25% is the paint and the way it is sprayed on. Then another 50% is added to that 100% for the extra mile of watersanding and polishing that agian you do with your own two hands. Its safe to say "Its all in your hands" you just have to decide to use them. Just my 2 pennies :seeya :flag

 

Hey Vettenut

Have any luck at the paint store today or have I just confussed the bearing grease out of you. I am trying to be helpfull, there are just SSSSOOOOOOOO many different probucts out there that even the pro's have a hard time picking between one or the other. I keep my eyes and mind open to what is new but I know what works for me.
Reviver :flag

 

...now, THIS is useful information - thanks!

...i especially like the advice about not being pushed into the higher priced products because that's all the guy behind the counter knows what to sell

 

Talked to a local street rod shop owner. He does beautiful work and he uses a sprayable polyester product brand named OMNI? It is cheap like Evercoat. I am an Evercoat fan. So I went to where he bought it and they claim it sands easy. I am concerned about the door jambs. Filling in features in the jambs may be a concern. I will probably go with the Evercoat product. I will start out using it on individual pieces like the hood,decklid,ETC. Thanks for the suggestions. :thumbs:

 

Glad I could help. Remember that you can reduce the Slaicksand down with acytone to make it spray and flow alittle better. I have used laquer thinner before but it is recommended to use acytone. Also use acytone to clean the gun with and dont leave it in the gun for more then it takes to spray it on or it could harden up in the gun. Never want that to happen. Good luck and let us know how it is comming along.

Reviver :smash: :flag

 

I have always spent the extra bucks on urethanes but would like to save a few dollars. I am not familiar with Feather fill or slicksand could you let me know who makes them. Thanks I am building a Grand Sport from Jeff at Mid America so the front and rear panels are pretty darn close.

 

Evercoat is the manufacturer of Featherfill and Slicksand and many other products. :thumbs:

 

Evercoat also makes great light weight body fillers but I use the Ecklers filler for Vette's, its not supposed to shrink at all in the sun. I have found the sanding of the Evercoat products are great about not clogging the sand paper which we all know is not cheep either. :thumbs: :flag