Engine bore
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 989
Likes: 13
From: Gloucester Point VA
Engine bore
I've got my block at the machine shop and it needs boring. The block is 265 that is already bored out to 283, does anyone know how far you can go with an old 265?
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,068
Likes: 27
From: St. Joseph Mo
Re: Engine bore (VetteJohn)
If it is critical to keep that particular block (for VIN # or whatever) it is time to sleeve it back to 3.750". An 1/8 over was the limit for most 265 blocks.
You may try for a bore of 3.905" (.030" over 283) to see if it cleans up but piston availability could be a problem.
You may try for a bore of 3.905" (.030" over 283) to see if it cleans up but piston availability could be a problem.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 989
Likes: 13
From: Gloucester Point VA
Re: Engine bore (67L36Driver)
That's exactly what we are going to try. We'll take a stab at 20 over (if we can find pistons) and go 30 if necessary. The casting number is correct but stamp on the block is wrong so I don't want to spent the $ to resleeve. :nopity I may even lose the stamp if we have to deck it.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
Re: Engine bore (VetteJohn)
4 inch bore on the 265`and 283`s. We use to build 4X4 chevy small blocks for a drag race friend with Buick rods and supercharged it. They worked, but tons of problems. One other dragster friend was equiped with two of the 4X4`s Chevys in line but was only injected. The walls were thin and bad when supercharged.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 989
Likes: 13
From: Gloucester Point VA
Re: Engine bore (VetteJohn) UPDATE
The machine shop called yesterday and said I could pick up my engine (parts). They were able to clean it up with .020" bore and we got pistons that fit at that diameter. They did not deck the block so the stamped numbers are still there (it's a '56 but not a Vette block), polished the crank, cleaned up the line bore and replaced the rod bolts (they were looking pretty old).
With a little luck I should have it back together in a week or two. I've also got the rear end and tranny apart (waiting on parts) so March looks like a busy month. My goal is to have all of the above together, back in the chassis and the engine "run-in" by the end of March.
It will then be time for a body drop :party: .
With a little luck I should have it back together in a week or two. I've also got the rear end and tranny apart (waiting on parts) so March looks like a busy month. My goal is to have all of the above together, back in the chassis and the engine "run-in" by the end of March.
It will then be time for a body drop :party: .
