I've got a two part question about the trailing arm shims.:confused:

1. How did the factory go about determining how the shims were placed in the trailing arms?

2. I'm replacing my TA's with rebuilt units from Van Steel, if I replace the shims just as they came out I should be okay, correct?

Thanks

 

I am doing my trailing arms right now. In fact, Van Steel is rebuilding them as I write this.

I have the video from them for suspension work. They recommend the following:
1. put the trailing arm in the pocket with no shims, put bolt through and don't tighten.
2. put a long straight edge across the rotor, pointing towards the front of the car.
3. shim the inside until the straight edge is parallel with the frame rail (rocker panel).
4. fill in shims on the outside.
5. only torque the trailing arm bolts, strut rod bolts, etc. with the car at ride height.

This should give you 0 degrees toe in.

Make sure you get it aligned professionally. :thumbs:


[Modified by kyosho, 12:45 PM 2/4/2004]

 

I'm definatly NOT an expert in this area, but I would think that putting the old shims back where they came from would be OK for the drive to an alignment shop. When the new bushings are installed in the T/A's, the standout may be a little different than the original ones.

 

:iagree:

I agree with Subfixer. Replacing the shims as they came out should be ok for a short drive to a competent alignment shop.

I did mine a year and a half ago. I replaced the shims as they came out (Bairs rebuilt mine). I was able to replace them all except for 1/16" shim on each side. Maybe the new bushings were a bit wider, or wear caused a need for more shims in the old ones.

I took mine to the alignment shop, one side was dead on and the other required moving 1 small shim from inside to outside.

Ryan


[Modified by Ryanc65, 2:42 PM 2/4/2004]

 

St. Louis used a special fixture to set the per wheel toe-in to spec so that the total toe-in was split equally between both sides. JohnZ has discussed the details before.

When new trailing arm bushings are installed, you can use the previous shim pack as a starting point, but the toe-in should always be checked and adjusted as necessary.

This can be done at a shop that has four-wheel alignment equipment. You can also do it yourself by measuring the cross members to determine their centers, then place a string and plumb bobs so the string is at a convenient height to measure rear toe. Set the toe to about 1/32" (assuming you are running radial tires) on each side using the string as the vehicle centerline reference.

The string can be set up with the wheels in the air, so you can get under the car to measure and string, but the car must be lowered back to the ground and moved for and aft until the suspension settles, so that toe-in is measured at normal ride height. Alternatively, a drive-on lift would make the job easier.

You can accurately set the toe-in yourself, but it is a lengthly and tedious procedure. If you don't feel you have the patience or skill to do this, take it to a reputable alignment shop with four-wheel alignment equipment, and have them check and adjust the rear toe as necessary. You should also have a supply of shims for them to use as it is very unlikely that a commercial alignment shop will have the proper type trailing arm shims.

Duke