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Can anyone advise if the electric clock movement or the quartz has the second hand "ticking" (pausing for each second). ?? I know one "ticks" and the other "sweeps" more smoothly. Thanks. What is the reliability of each? Do the electric movements fail more often that the quartz??
Thanks. :auto:
Quartz is smooth,Original Electric points movement "ticks"
Original style is good for point cars,drivers I'd go with Quartz.They're more accurate and last alot longer due to parts don't wear on them.
Quartz is smooth,Original Electric points movement "ticks"
Original style is good for point cars,drivers I'd go with Quartz.They're more accurate and last alot longer due to parts don't wear on them.
Jason
VetteInstruments@aol.com
I just got my mechanical clock converted to a quartz, so I don't have to mess with setting the time because the other is not reliable as quartz. To hell with the point loss! :cheers:
Thanks for ALL the replys. Mine "ticks", so I must have the mechanical / original type. I'm tired of messin' with it, it stops from time to time,and if I rap on the dash it starts again, so I'm gonna go the QUARTZ side. Thanks again. :thumbs: :steering: :cheers:
I put a quartz movement in my 67 at least 7-8 yrs ago. It keeps perfect time and gives no trouble. Only time I have to set is when time changes. :thumbs:
Depends on what you want to do with the car. IF you're into NCRS and Bloomington Gold type judging, you'll want to restore your original clock, as judges look for the so called "tick" as opposed to the "sweep". If it doesn't matter to you, go the quartz route. Chuck
I'm tired of messin' with it, it stops from time to time,and if I rap on the dash it starts again, so I'm gonna go the QUARTZ side.
Mine did the exact same thing when it was about 25 years old. I took it apart, sprayed it with tuner cleaner, ran a piece of emery cloth through the points and reoiled it. It took about half a hour (C1 clocks take about 1 min. to remove) and it has worked perfectly for the last 18 years. Give it a try. :cheers:
The clocks are "electro-mechanical". They're really mechanical clocks with an electric wind-up. Most failures are due to the points fusing, and most points fuse because the car battery runs down.
As voltage decreases, amps increase. The clock finally winds down, the points touch, there isn't enough juice to rewind it, the current keeps flowing, and the points burn/fuse together. Chuck
I had it out and the mechanism looked so fragile and the points looked a little "burnt" where they come together, so I put a little wd-40 on some moving parts and put it back in. It ran good for about 15 mins and stopped again til I rapped on the dash and it started again for about 10 mins. I'll try your method and see what happens..Thanks ! :steering:
Has anyone thought on the Quartz ones to use a 9V battery or something to run it instead of the car battery. The reason that I ask is I like to disconnect the battery when I park the car and if I do this the clock will stop.. Just trying to improve upon the design... Dave...
There is a small fused bypass device that you can use in conjunction with your battery switch. It allows a low draw device like your clock to run continuously even though the main battery switch is off. Any larger draw like lights is attempted the fuse will blow. This may give you the best of both worlds. It is avaiable from many of the Corvette suppliers. :yesnod:
Kurt, Go get some spray tuner cleaner at Radio Shack. Spray in insides concentrating on all the pivot points, let it air dry. Don't use WD-40. Get some 3-in-1 oil and use a toothpick to put just a little on all the pivot points. Then use some emery cloth/paper and drag it back and forth through the points until they are cleaned up. I've done many old clocks this way and it has worked every time. Good luck.
I ran the quartz clock on a dry cell for a while - pita in cold weather. I put a $5 quartz mwchanism out of an 80s Grand Prix in about 5 years ago. Works great.