Body mount rubber
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,965
Likes: 419
From: Melbourne FL
Body mount rubber
Repeat after me - I am not going to pull the body off! Please keep repeating that while I consider that now that while I have the engine out, I should at least replace the rubber frame to body mounts.
So the question is - how difficult is it to do without pulling the body? :confused:
PS. I will hunt down and beat severely about the head and shoulders of anyone suggesting I go ahead and bite the big bullet!!! :nono: I curse everything that crops up and keeps me from driving this thing that has set in my garage for close to 20 years now. Please don't add to that list (and my fuel line is fine, thank you!) :crazy:
So the question is - how difficult is it to do without pulling the body? :confused:
PS. I will hunt down and beat severely about the head and shoulders of anyone suggesting I go ahead and bite the big bullet!!! :nono: I curse everything that crops up and keeps me from driving this thing that has set in my garage for close to 20 years now. Please don't add to that list (and my fuel line is fine, thank you!) :crazy:
Moderator
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 7,117
Likes: 51
From: Dove Mountain Arizona
Re: Body mount rubber (pdeinc)
You CAN do it with the body on. Loosen all bolts and remove the nuts. Remove kick panels. Use a floor jack with a 2X4 and jack at the metal body mount under the kick panel on one side only. Go up enough to slip a couple short pieces of 2X4's on the top of the frame btwn the wheels. Slide out bolts on one side, remove shims and rubber mounts. Make sure you put the same number of shims at each location. The shims/rubber will be masking taped to the frame. Do the other side and you're ready to go. :thumbs:
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,965
Likes: 419
From: Melbourne FL
Re: Body mount rubber (MasterDave)
Thanks Dave, when you say kick panels, do mean inside the car on the sides where your feet are? Or is that what the small horizontal panels behind the front wheels are called?
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: North East MD
Re: Body mount rubber (pdeinc)
Don't forget about the rust factor. Some of those bolts might not want to come out after 40 years, +or-. The number 4 mount can be a real hassle. You should probably do the job, it just may not turn out to be easy. Think there are several posts on this subject.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,550
Likes: 0
From: Naples, Fl. USA
Re: Body mount rubber (pdeinc)
Don't forget the cables have to be removed that attach to the seat belt anchors. These can be a real :rant: if they are as rusted as mine were.
I just went through removing all of the seat belt reinforcements- and replacing them. And- that #4 mount- :mad
Good luck
:seeya
I just went through removing all of the seat belt reinforcements- and replacing them. And- that #4 mount- :mad
Good luck
:seeya
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,620
Likes: 0
From: 20 forward gears to shift through in MD
Re: Body mount rubber (MasterDave)
MasterDave is correct, contrary to popular beliefs, you only need to raise the body enough (one side at a time) to pull out the mounts (which is not that far). :yesnod: Others are correct that some of the bolts/caged nuts may be ~less~ than cooperative when it comes to removing them... Of course if you run into significant problems removing the body mount bolts, you ~may~ be removing the body afterall... :D Just remember... LOTS of PB Blaster before you start... :lol:
Moderator
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 7,117
Likes: 51
From: Dove Mountain Arizona
Re: Body mount rubber (pdeinc)
Thanks Dave, when you say kick panels, do mean inside the car on the sides where your feet are? Or is that what the small horizontal panels behind the front wheels are called?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,965
Likes: 419
From: Melbourne FL
Re: Body mount rubber (pdeinc)
Okay, I'm back with another question - why is it all I find are full body mount kits? Can't I simply replace the rubber? If so, who knows a source? I've checked the local chevy dealer, Ecklers, Mid America, Volunteer Vette.
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Moderator
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 7,117
Likes: 51
From: Dove Mountain Arizona
Re: Body mount rubber (pdeinc)
You need the whole kit. You get new bolts and shims. The old shims will be pretty rough and you prolly will need to cut a couple bolts anyway, usually the two back by the rear hatch. Don't cheap out on me now bro.... :thumbs:
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,965
Likes: 419
From: Melbourne FL
Re: Body mount rubber (MasterDave)
Thanks Dave, I wasn't aware much of the hardware would be falling apart (or need cutting apart to remove). Getting cheap isn't one of my failings, altho I do have to admit to being shortsighted from time to time.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,965
Likes: 419
From: Melbourne FL
Re: Body mount rubber (MasterDave)
I ordered the 'whole' kit from Volunteer Vettes and got a kit missing 4 of the smaller rubber bushings. I went ahead and unbolted and jacked it up and replaced the larger bushing and let the body back down and will finishing bolting it up when the missing parts show up.
All bolts came out easily, shims were still in usable shape - good thing too as had to reuse 4 of them as the kit didn't have enough. No problem either with the seat belt bolts. Forgot about the mention of the two bolts near the drive shaft until reading this post now - guess it didn't matter! Only raised the body about 2 inches each side when pulling out the old and putting in the new so probably didn't stress whatever is fastened there.
And which is the dreaded '#4' mounted you all mentioned? I didn't find any one more difficult than another and it's symmetrical both sides so don't understand the reference.
All bolts came out easily, shims were still in usable shape - good thing too as had to reuse 4 of them as the kit didn't have enough. No problem either with the seat belt bolts. Forgot about the mention of the two bolts near the drive shaft until reading this post now - guess it didn't matter! Only raised the body about 2 inches each side when pulling out the old and putting in the new so probably didn't stress whatever is fastened there.
And which is the dreaded '#4' mounted you all mentioned? I didn't find any one more difficult than another and it's symmetrical both sides so don't understand the reference.
