Clock bezel "re-attachment"??
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
From: El Cajon CA.
Clock bezel "re-attachment"??
Clock bezl popped off while driving. Looks like whoever did clock sevice years ago did not "re-attach" bezel properly. Looks like bezel has 3 pairs of "nubs" that attach somehow to the clock face housing. Any suggestions. GLUE??? SOLDER??? MIRACLE??? Thanks. :banghead: :confused:
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,246
Likes: 21
From: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
Re: Clock bezel "re-attachment"?? (Kurt G.)
I drilled a small shallow hole in place of the "nubs" and installed a thin sheet metal screw in each. The screws are longer than needed (less than half inch) and I put a small piece of rubber tube over half the length of each. The rubber holds tension on the bezel, locks the screws in place until you want to remove the bezel for service, is easily accesible to a small screwdriver, and can not be seen when the clock is assembled.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
From: El Cajon CA.
Re: Clock bezel "re-attachment"?? (magicv8)
Thanks.!! I'll give that a try. It was a little surprising to be driving along and all of a sudden this metal ring (bezel) literally jumped off the dashboard !! I guess the spring clips on the back hold a little tension on the bezel as the clock sits against the dash. Thanks again. :cheers: :thumbs: :steering:
Racer
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 386
Likes: 3
From: Chapin SC
Re: Clock bezel "re-attachment"?? (Kurt G.)
Those little nubs acted as rivets. The parts were assembled then the nubs were peened, or staked, to hold it all together. I, too, drilled holes then used small screws to hold it all together. Worked great. Just don't drill through by mistake.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
From: El Cajon CA.
Re: Clock bezel "re-attachment"?? (jimdvan)
Yeah, it looked as if those nubs had originally been peened. But I guess to replace the lens, they have to be drilled to free up the bezel. Thanks for the tip. :cheers:
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
From: El Cajon CA.
Re: Clock bezel "re-attachment"?? (magicv8)
Used your re-attachment method today. Worked like a champ !!!!!!!!!!!! Clock is snug on the dash and ticking like a well oiled machine. Thank you.!! :cheers: :seeya :flag :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Middletown NY
Pressed on?
I drilled a small shallow hole in place of the "nubs" and installed a thin sheet metal screw in each. The screws are longer than needed (less than half inch) and I put a small piece of rubber tube over half the length of each. The rubber holds tension on the bezel, locks the screws in place until you want to remove the bezel for service, is easily accesible to a small screwdriver, and can not be seen when the clock is assembled.
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Verdad Gallardo
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 951
From: Corpus Christi, TX
I had to do the same repair about 10 years ago. Had my clock converted to quartz movement and refinished by Corvette Central. One day the bezel just popped off.
The clock mechanism stays with the rear of the clock housing, which can be opened by prying on three locking tabs in the front of the clock housing where the housing front and rear slide together. You won't have to remove the clock mechanism from the rear of the housing. The time set **** will have to come off, though, because the time set shaft extends from the clock mechanism through a hole in the lens.
As others pointed out, the bezel has "nubs" that were peened over through holes in the lens and lens retaining ring to hold the lens to the bezel. You can drill the nubs (as close to on center as possible) with a 1/32 inch drill and use #2, 1/8 or 3/16 inch long sheet metal screws through the lens retaining ring and into the drilled nubs. It's essentially the same thing as replacing a gas filler door emblem in an original gas door; the kit that comes with those has the same screws. I didn't use any rubber for extra holding power but that seems like a great idea. The rubber can go between the retaining ring and the lens if you don't want any visible gap between the lens and the bezel.
The clock mechanism stays with the rear of the clock housing, which can be opened by prying on three locking tabs in the front of the clock housing where the housing front and rear slide together. You won't have to remove the clock mechanism from the rear of the housing. The time set **** will have to come off, though, because the time set shaft extends from the clock mechanism through a hole in the lens.
As others pointed out, the bezel has "nubs" that were peened over through holes in the lens and lens retaining ring to hold the lens to the bezel. You can drill the nubs (as close to on center as possible) with a 1/32 inch drill and use #2, 1/8 or 3/16 inch long sheet metal screws through the lens retaining ring and into the drilled nubs. It's essentially the same thing as replacing a gas filler door emblem in an original gas door; the kit that comes with those has the same screws. I didn't use any rubber for extra holding power but that seems like a great idea. The rubber can go between the retaining ring and the lens if you don't want any visible gap between the lens and the bezel.
