I've got my engine pulled. It is the original engine and it has previously been rebuilt to .030" over. (Approx. 1980).

I plan to store this engine in the event I decide to restore or HAVE TO sell it in the future.

Now what is the best way to store the engine? Should it be stored as I pulled it out of the car, drained of all fluids and bagged? Should I disassemble the engine and give it a good cleaning and then store everything in pieces? Or disassemble, clean and loosely reassemble? I know everything needs to be kept dry to prevent rust.

Thanks for any input.
Ryan

 

Thanks for posting this. I have the EXACT same question/situation with the original 327 that came out of my 66--except that unfortunately, my motor is already bored .040" over.... Not much meat left to take it to .060" to clean it up, I fear.... But I'll let my heirs worry about that one! I'm looking forward to the recomendations that will come from this group.

 

Have you considered what you are going to do about a new engine.?

Nevermind, I just say the other post about the 67 BB hood and the fast burn 385.

I have a couple questions about the install of the new engine. First, have you done a new engine install before? Did you install engine and trans or engine only? And, What did you have to change on the engine in order to make it work? Flywheel, water pump, etc?

Thanks
Ryan

[Modified by Ryanc65, 2:10 PM 5/6/2004]


[Modified by Ryanc65, 2:19 PM 5/6/2004]

 

I don't know about what else you may be told but get all the water out of the block and heads. Flush with something that will stop the rust from forming - maybe kerosene or diesel fuel, just don't leave them dry. Remember, head bolts go into the water jackets and the threads will degrade if left damp.

The cylinders will also rust if not properly prepped.

 

Here is my way, and stored many! No need to drain the oil, but i would try to get as much of the water out of the block as possible. Remove spark plugs, and squirt Marvel mystery oil, or clean engine oil in the plug holes. Reinstall plugs and bag the engine. This should be good for along time! :rolleyes:

 

I hope you changed the oil just before you pulled the engine.

Drain all the coolant, oil the cylinders. As long as it is stored inside corrosion should not be a problem (with fresh oil).

Duke

 

Hi, Ryan:

This is the first brand new crate motor that I've ever installed, but it is not the first time I've worked on the motor in this Vette--I worked on it in High School (Lordy--lo these 28 years ago) when my older brother owned the car. I worked on the new engine on a stand (putting on all of the pretty pieces that the nice FedEx man kept bringing me from Summit Racing) and I pulled the old engine and Muncie together. Sent the Muncie out for freshening up then mated it to the crate motor and stuck them both back in together. The Fast Burn 385 comes with a flexplate, and since I had a 4-speed I did need a new flywheel. I used GM's lightweight nodular iron unit that has the correct bolt pattern for the late-model 1-piece rear main seal. The engine comes with a long-leg cast iron water pump and I replaced it with GM's lightweight aluminum model but be forewarned--that aluminum pump is based on a Corvette desigh that isn't "long leg" OR "short leg"--caused me some sleepless nights with the aluminum pulleys and single belt drive!

I don't know if he is a member of the Forum but I got my inspiration (and unmercifully ripped off many of the great ideas) from Ansel Boyce, who resurrected a neglected 66 roadster into quite a beauty, also putting in a Fast Burn. His nicely documented web site is at: http://www.arboyce.com/pages/Interes...66/project.htm

If I can answer other questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Oh, and you might need a hood with extra clearance!

 

Thanks for the link to Ansel's website. That last pic on page 9 is SHARP! :cool:

Did you order the crate motor from a local dealer or did you get it from someplace like scoggin-dickey? What carb did you use?

Have you taken it for a spin yet to begin break-in?

Thanks
Ryan

 

Yes, I sourced the new motor from a local dealer who handles GM Performance Parts. Man, they took me in to their stock room and I thought that I'd died and gone to heaven. Crates of motoros stacked up several high and many, many wide. They installed the Hot Cam Kit for me, so I'm hoping that the hp is somewhere north of 420.... Another benefit for me of having the local relationship with a GMPP dealer is that I'm going to feel very comfortable bringing the car to them if I'm unable to get the bugs out. They'll be able to scope it and hopefully dial in the timing a bit and adjust the carb. Speaking of which, I used the GMPP 12485506 Carburetor "750 Holley" for my engine. It is calibrated for a 430hp 350ci motor, so that seems like a good fit! Plus, it is polished/shiny, which was a nice side benefit. Not "pick the seeds out of your teeth" polished but not bland Holley gold chromate, either.

Because I replaced so many things--and did the work myself (i.e. have absolutely no faith that it'll hold)--I've pretty much just relegated myself to driving around the block over and over and over again--in increasing radii as confidence builds a bit. Just kept telling myself, "how far do you want to have to push this thing to get it home if a fuel hose (that I made) bursts or a belt (that I adjusted) throws?" I've gotten to the point where I was trying to make some light acceleration runs, per the Break In instructions on GMPP's web site, but the car won't pull much beyond 3500 rpm right now. I'm going to pull the hood and put a proper air cleaner assembly on it and take her out and see if that is the culprit. Just need to get the son-in-law over to help yank the hood again. :blueangel: