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It'll go with the rotor aligned with the #1 tower, but you have to fiddle with the oil pump drive shaft (use a long screwdriver to position it) so the bottom of the distributor gear aligns with the slot in the shaft so it'll drop into place. Don't "Bubba" the wire indexing as one of the posters suggested.
Could not agree more, get everything indexed correctly! Have you verified TDC and your timing marks? If you can't seem to get the oil pump lined up, you could try this trick. Way back when, we used to ignore the oil pump slot, put the distributor in the right tooth and then bump the engine around while putting a little downward pressure in the distributor until it dropped in.
Is the distributor gear on correctly? The divot on the gear should align with the tip of the rotor when installed correctly. If it is 180 degrees out of phase, you will have difficulty timing it to 10 degrees without the vacuum can hitting the intake runner or the coil bracket (I forget which)
Good call Nicky. After six hours of painting my God-daughter's new basement room in five colours I got back to the Vette. (I thought disco was dead.) BTW, no parents allowed in that room. God, six-year-olds can be so grown up!
The dimple was 180 degrees off. So I swapped that around. And re-adjusted the oil pump again to compensate. This job is getting painful and a little blood along the way. That distributor hold-down bolt is...how do you get it back in? In any case I closed down for the day short of re-attaching the tach drive and all the shielding. But I did the static timing (10 degrees) and you can see the outcome in the pic. I am pretty pleased with the outcome as it is reasonably centred compared with where I started bang up against the intake runner. Tomorrow I will replace the Holley power valve that I blew on my recent 6 degree timing experiment and hopefully hit the road for a Club road cruise on Sunday.
My thanks to you and the likes of JohnZ for putting up with neophytes like me as we fumble along with these old cars. Much appreciated!
Paul re the blown power valve in the Holly, there is a cheap anti blow out kit (about 9 bucks) available from the likes of JEGS.
The next time you have to replace a power valve spend an extra half hour and fit the anti blow out kit. It will be the last power valve you have to replace.
Paul re the blown power valve in the Holly, there is a cheap anti blow out kit (about 9 bucks) available from the likes of JEGS.
The next time you have to replace a power valve spend an extra half hour and fit the anti blow out kit. It will be the last power valve you have to replace.
Good advice, offers some protection against backfire. But it doesn't work 100% of the time, ask me how I know . . .
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