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Old Jul 20, 2004 | 11:48 PM
  #1  
Allcoupedup's Avatar
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Default Clutch Problems

Problem #1 Can't get it adjusted
Problem #2 Chatters

Let's put #2 on hold and work on #1. If I adjust per the shop manual the TO bearing does not rattle but putting the clutch to the floor does not engage the clutch. If I adjust to near the end of the rod, the clutch engages and disengages just fine but the TO bearing takes a beating - I can hear it and feel it in the pedal. You'd think I could find a happy medium but I cannot - the clutch pedal just doesn't seem to have enough travel. I'm going to go out on a limb here and guess that bubba has been here too.

New stock 403 aluminum bellhousing, new LUK repSet 04-021(pressure plate, TO bearing, and clutch. I thought I measured the TO bearing and it checked out but I don't have a picture of it so I can't be sure. I also tossed the stinking box so I can't even confirm the actual part is what I think I ordered.
3887177 Clutch Release Fork
3872960 Clutch Rod
3729000 Stud Ball

One prob.... the shorter rod below is supposedly the 3872960 rod. The lower rod in the pic below is the one that was on the car. The shorter will not fit (not even close).

I do not have my AIM handy. Can anyone tell me if I have the right pieces. Any ideas? This set-up cannot be adjusted by the clutch rod


Thanks,
Brian
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 12:23 AM
  #2  
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Allcoupedup,

Interesting you have clutch problems after all the new clutch pieces you installed...I HAD CLUTCH ISSUES IMMEDIATELY (AND HOPEFULLY, AFTER TONIGHT, THEY ARE FIXED!) Now, my issues were twofold:

1. After installing a factory replacement stock type clutch, my existing clutch rod (the rod hooked to your pedal linkage inside your car that passes through the firewall and hooks up to your Z bar) had to be adjusted so that there was no adjustment left on the rod in order to get the clutch to engage.

2. Right from the get go I've got "shudder" or "chatter" (no noises just a shuddering on initial take off.

The more I struggled with trying to take off smoothly the only way I was able to do so was to give her more gas and let her out quickly. I said no way am I going to live with this so I started asking questions and reading the archives of the forum on clutch rods (on closer examination I could see someone b/4 me had cut a section of the clutch rod off!!).

So today I took the rod out, measured it at just under 18", went to Tracy Performance and bought a replacement that measured 19 1/2". I installed it and adjusted the free play at the pedal to 1 1/4". Now, I haven't driven the car but I'm hopin the whole initial take off process will be smoother.

Sorry about this verbose response and this may not help your issue but it could be something that you may want to look at as a possible fix.

Let me know.

Further, I just went out to the garage and measured that rod that hooks onto the Z bar to the fork (in your picture above) and my rod is exactly the same length as the longer one above (was in the car when I bought it 23 years ago)

Good luck!

Jim

Last edited by 6T5RUSH; Jul 21, 2004 at 12:29 AM.
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 12:30 AM
  #3  
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Brian, are you by chance using a Centerforce Clutch?

Mark
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 07:55 AM
  #4  
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Nope - its a LUK RepSet - about as close to OE as you can get.
Brian
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Old Jul 21, 2004 | 09:13 AM
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Did you measure the TO bearing? I had a similar problem when I did a clutch install. Both of the TO bearings that came with the Centerforce and the LUK assemblies were 1". The shop manual calles for a 1.25" bearing.

Centerforce told me that the 1" would work just fine. Anyway, it did not. Found the proper 1.25 and installed it with the LUK clutch and all was well. I have a stock clutch rods, bell housing etc.

Mark
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