59 fuel injection problem
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 442
Likes: 185
From: Zürich Switzerland
2026 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Winner - Unmodified
59 fuel injection problem
Hi to all from a new member!
I'm the proud owner of a 59 290 HP Fuelie. Because I had to completely rebuild the engine when I got the car up to now I haven't really reved the engine. But as I tried recently I noticed that it wouldn't go much higher than 4700 rpm when accelerating. It feels like a rev limiter is setting in. Where would you search for the problem? Start with the ignition?
Thanks for any hints.
Regards from Switzerland
Adrian
I'm the proud owner of a 59 290 HP Fuelie. Because I had to completely rebuild the engine when I got the car up to now I haven't really reved the engine. But as I tried recently I noticed that it wouldn't go much higher than 4700 rpm when accelerating. It feels like a rev limiter is setting in. Where would you search for the problem? Start with the ignition?
Thanks for any hints.
Regards from Switzerland
Adrian
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,025
Likes: 12
From: Pleasant Grove AL
With any fuel injection problem, first verify that the ignition is operating properly. With that said, there are some things on the injection to check:
1. Possible that the high pressure pump is worn and not providing enough fuel
2. Check drive cable for HP pump. Ends could be worn and slipping at higher RPM
3. Power stop set too lean
4. Fuel filter clogged.
Even though you are a third of the way around the world, it is not out of the question to remove the unit and ship it to Jerry Bramlett for test and calibration. UPS second or third day air might not be that expensive.
What is the history of the FI unit? Has it been rebuilt in recent years? If so, by whom? Has it ever run properly since you've had the car?
Hopefully you have an ignition issue.
1. Possible that the high pressure pump is worn and not providing enough fuel
2. Check drive cable for HP pump. Ends could be worn and slipping at higher RPM
3. Power stop set too lean
4. Fuel filter clogged.
Even though you are a third of the way around the world, it is not out of the question to remove the unit and ship it to Jerry Bramlett for test and calibration. UPS second or third day air might not be that expensive.
What is the history of the FI unit? Has it been rebuilt in recent years? If so, by whom? Has it ever run properly since you've had the car?
Hopefully you have an ignition issue.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,840
Likes: 376
From: Mobile AL
I would start with standard tune-up steps. You must have good points, wires, and plugs to go over 5,000 rpm.
There are several brands of points that have higher spring tension to prevent high rpm bounce. Set them at 29 degrees dwell each. This will give you a total dwell angle of 34 degrees. Check the location of the balancer TDC mark and then set initial timing at 14 degrees. Inspect the distributor mechanical advance system for free movement. The advance weights should have the number "37" stamped in them. There should be a sleeve on the underside advance limit stud.
Do NOT use those "properly dated" reproduction spark plug wires if you intend to drive the car hard. Get a good Delco, Jacobs, or MSD wire set.
If you haven't already, I would replace the engine fuel pump inlet hose, the FI inlet gas filter element, and the filter sock on the gas tank pick-up tube.
I would also run a compression and leakdown test on the rebuilt engine to determine its condition. Many of the freshly rebuilt engines that I am asked to tune have poor ring sealing due to improper honing.
If none of the above steps makes the difference you want, then you can rightfully suspect the FI unit.
You did install a stock 097 solid lifter cam in your rebuilt engine, right?
There are several brands of points that have higher spring tension to prevent high rpm bounce. Set them at 29 degrees dwell each. This will give you a total dwell angle of 34 degrees. Check the location of the balancer TDC mark and then set initial timing at 14 degrees. Inspect the distributor mechanical advance system for free movement. The advance weights should have the number "37" stamped in them. There should be a sleeve on the underside advance limit stud.
Do NOT use those "properly dated" reproduction spark plug wires if you intend to drive the car hard. Get a good Delco, Jacobs, or MSD wire set.
If you haven't already, I would replace the engine fuel pump inlet hose, the FI inlet gas filter element, and the filter sock on the gas tank pick-up tube.
I would also run a compression and leakdown test on the rebuilt engine to determine its condition. Many of the freshly rebuilt engines that I am asked to tune have poor ring sealing due to improper honing.
If none of the above steps makes the difference you want, then you can rightfully suspect the FI unit.
You did install a stock 097 solid lifter cam in your rebuilt engine, right?
Last edited by jerrybramlett; Aug 4, 2004 at 08:48 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 442
Likes: 185
From: Zürich Switzerland
2026 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Winner - Unmodified
Thank you guys for the fast response. It looks like I will have a busy weekend 
To be honest I have the feeling that the engine was running smoother earlier, but memory could also play tricks on my...
An additional question: I have purchased a Pertronix Ignitor II system. Would you put this in before or after the search for faults? I assume it would eliminate any weaknesses regarding points and condenser, right?
To be honest I have the feeling that the engine was running smoother earlier, but memory could also play tricks on my...
An additional question: I have purchased a Pertronix Ignitor II system. Would you put this in before or after the search for faults? I assume it would eliminate any weaknesses regarding points and condenser, right?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 4,148
Likes: 642
From: Bandera Texas
90% ignition, 5% injection, 5% operator
My first Corvette was a 65 fuel coupe. That was 1969. It had no power. The PROBLEM WAS IGNITION............nothing else.
Listen to Jerry. He knows!! Get your timing and advance curve working first. Then make sure fuel filters.......ignition wires etc. are all OK. The Petronix is good.......but not without the proper advance curves.
Last week I saw a car that had not been driven in three years run poorly. OLD GASOLINE was the problem. Flushed out the old, added some racing 110 octane to 91 unleaded....POW !! Found 125 HP!!!
Listen to Jerry. He knows!! Get your timing and advance curve working first. Then make sure fuel filters.......ignition wires etc. are all OK. The Petronix is good.......but not without the proper advance curves.
Last week I saw a car that had not been driven in three years run poorly. OLD GASOLINE was the problem. Flushed out the old, added some racing 110 octane to 91 unleaded....POW !! Found 125 HP!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 3,025
Likes: 12
From: Pleasant Grove AL
Suggest you stick with the stock components until you get it sorted out. There have been some issues with the Pertronix units. On the other hand, I assume you have a dual point distributer. We have trouble getting quality components in the states, much less in Europe. I like Standard "BlueStreak" points, but I doubt they are available there. Delco stuff is not the best choice here. Try to find some premium points, condenser, and plug wires. Be sure the plugs are properly gapped. Lots of plugs are shipped pre gapped at .045 for HEI setups. That's too much for the stock system.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,142
Likes: 54
From: Taylor Michigan
It must run and idle without any problem or you probably would have mentioned other conditions. Therefore with out building the engine back to it`s original HP [290] and you have a hydraulic cam instead of a solid lifter cam, it will never get much over 5 G`s. If it`s a solid lifter cam, then disreguard this statement, I then would agree that it`s not performing to its specifications or capability of 7 G`s plus. 
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 442
Likes: 185
From: Zürich Switzerland
2026 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Winner - Unmodified
Well, I'm probably way behind all of you senior experts regarding do-it-yourself but I'm positive the mechanic put solid lifters back in
Besides the fact that the whole neighbourhood has to put on gas masks when I start it cold
it idles well after having warmed up.
Unfortunately I still haven't figured out how to get this choke right
though its turned all the way to lean.. maybe something wrong with the bimetallic spring??
Besides the fact that the whole neighbourhood has to put on gas masks when I start it cold
it idles well after having warmed up.Unfortunately I still haven't figured out how to get this choke right
though its turned all the way to lean.. maybe something wrong with the bimetallic spring??
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Instructor
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 216
Likes: 1
From: Marietta GA
Originally Posted by jimgessner
My first Corvette was a 65 fuel coupe. That was 1969. It had no power. The PROBLEM WAS IGNITION............nothing else.
Listen to Jerry. He knows!! Get your timing and advance curve working first. Then make sure fuel filters.......ignition wires etc. are all OK. The Petronix is good.......but not without the proper advance curves.
Last week I saw a car that had not been driven in three years run poorly. OLD GASOLINE was the problem. Flushed out the old, added some racing 110 octane to 91 unleaded....POW !! Found 125 HP!!!
Listen to Jerry. He knows!! Get your timing and advance curve working first. Then make sure fuel filters.......ignition wires etc. are all OK. The Petronix is good.......but not without the proper advance curves.
Last week I saw a car that had not been driven in three years run poorly. OLD GASOLINE was the problem. Flushed out the old, added some racing 110 octane to 91 unleaded....POW !! Found 125 HP!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,840
Likes: 376
From: Mobile AL
I'll be glad to advise you on how to set your FI choke, but only after you've confirmed the good condition of your ignition, fuel supply, and other important non-injection components. If you start changing the FI settings now, you won't have a valid performance baseline for comparison.
Please let me know how your system tests and inspections turn out.
Please let me know how your system tests and inspections turn out.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
From: Northeastern MD
Re:
Swissie,
I am the creator of the 1959 Corvette Registry, and would like to add your car- Can you email me at jbiii@comcast.net with the details of your car and where you're located? A pic would be great too.
Regards,
Jim
'59 #5366
1959 Corvette Registry, Webmaster
http://59vette.cjb.net
I am the creator of the 1959 Corvette Registry, and would like to add your car- Can you email me at jbiii@comcast.net with the details of your car and where you're located? A pic would be great too.
Regards,
Jim
'59 #5366
1959 Corvette Registry, Webmaster
http://59vette.cjb.net
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 442
Likes: 185
From: Zürich Switzerland
2026 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Winner - Unmodified
[QUOTE=jerrybramlett
Please let me know how your system tests and inspections turn out.[/QUOTE]
Besides loosing one of the weight springs I noticed something strange while examinig the distributor: the weight cam doesn't seem to have much travel, unless I pull it up. There is a gap of about 0.4'' between the mainshaft plate and the weight cam plate. When I close this gap by pulling the travel seems to almost double.
Well, first where do I get new springs now? And what do you guys think of my weight cam?
Please let me know how your system tests and inspections turn out.[/QUOTE]
Besides loosing one of the weight springs I noticed something strange while examinig the distributor: the weight cam doesn't seem to have much travel, unless I pull it up. There is a gap of about 0.4'' between the mainshaft plate and the weight cam plate. When I close this gap by pulling the travel seems to almost double.
Well, first where do I get new springs now? And what do you guys think of my weight cam?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 5,840
Likes: 376
From: Mobile AL
You're low on luck concerning the advance springs. GM no longer sells any pre-HEI springs. Don't use the HEI type; they're too long. You can still get the right length springs aftermarket, but those are usually too light and make the advance start at idle speed. I'm not aware of any accurate reproductions. I've only got a few NOS sets left for customer units.
I don't understand what you're saying about the rotor mounting plate being almost half an inch from the mainshaft advance weight cam. At least that's what I think you're saying. If you will send me some good digital photos of this problem, I'll try to help. My Top Secret e-mail address is jerrybramlett@comcast.net.
I don't understand what you're saying about the rotor mounting plate being almost half an inch from the mainshaft advance weight cam. At least that's what I think you're saying. If you will send me some good digital photos of this problem, I'll try to help. My Top Secret e-mail address is jerrybramlett@comcast.net.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,068
Likes: 27
From: St. Joseph Mo
Swissie says.
"There is a gap of about 0.4'' between the mainshaft plate and the weight cam plate. When I close this gap by pulling the travel seems to almost double."
Sounds like complete lack of shims between dist. drive gear and housing. End play is supposed to be .002"-.007". Most dist. I have encountered had .025"-.060" but nothing like .400".
Maybe also serious wear to the top of the breaker plate and/or underside of the breaker cam.
"There is a gap of about 0.4'' between the mainshaft plate and the weight cam plate. When I close this gap by pulling the travel seems to almost double."
Sounds like complete lack of shims between dist. drive gear and housing. End play is supposed to be .002"-.007". Most dist. I have encountered had .025"-.060" but nothing like .400".
Maybe also serious wear to the top of the breaker plate and/or underside of the breaker cam.
I wonder how he is doing.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 442
Likes: 185
From: Zürich Switzerland
2026 Corvette of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Winner - Unmodified
Thanks for asking! After having mailed the one weight spring I still had to my mechanic in order for him to find a suitable replacement and having been told that he couldn't find one in Switzerland 
I So I told him to send it back. Unfortunately he didn't use priority mail so I still haven't gotten it back... which is particularly bad because I decided to to give it another try last Saturday finding the lost spring. With the help of a portable compressor I was able to blow this bugger from wherever it was hiding
So, I really hope the postal service didn't mess up and I will get my other spring back by tomorrow so I can finally put the distributor back together again
Then I will finally be able to follow all advise having been given so far. So don't worry, very likely more questions to follow
I So I told him to send it back. Unfortunately he didn't use priority mail so I still haven't gotten it back... which is particularly bad because I decided to to give it another try last Saturday finding the lost spring. With the help of a portable compressor I was able to blow this bugger from wherever it was hiding So, I really hope the postal service didn't mess up and I will get my other spring back by tomorrow so I can finally put the distributor back together again
Then I will finally be able to follow all advise having been given so far. So don't worry, very likely more questions to follow
