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That's probably fairly normal. One thing a generator doesn't do well is low RPM. You can convert to an alternator pretty easily, but they look funky. Your generator should have a pulley with a diameter of 3-5/8". You can substitute a smaller pulley (like about 3") and help the situation a lot. IF you operate the engine at high RPM a lot, you will probably wear out the generator prematurely with the small pulley. I had a similar set up on my 62 that has run for several years without problems. The engine on that car idled at about 900-950 and always showed a + charge. Sounds like you have an auto trans, so that high an idle speed would be impractible.
When putting it into drive I get a hard jerk in the car from the engagement, unless the rpm's are low.
I already run a low vacuum modulator, but I suspect that the gearbox (TH400) has had a shiftkit installed, and that this contributes the the harsh engagements from Park or Neutral.
That's a good question. I got mine off a junkyard generator. I suspect that would be hard to find in your part of the world. maybe someone will jump in here with a better suggestion.
In the meantime, it would not hurt to inspect you generator and be sure the brushes and commutator are in good order. Not knowing how "stock" your car is, perhaps the ultimate solution would be conversion to an alternator. I personally don't like the idea due to asthetics, but sometimes you need to do what you need to do to make the car operate properly. At least there aren't propably a lot of "experts" in your neck of the woods to criticize your engine compartment configuration.
You're right. I should have thought of that. The 62 had a tach drive distributor, so it didn't make a difference.
It is very characteristic of a generator to show low output at low RPM. One of those things you sort of have to "live with" on these old cars, at least to some degree.
If originality isn't a concern, conversion to an alternator is simple, easily reversed, and fairly inexpensive.
Check your battery and all battery connections and grounds. The current load should be supplied by the battery not the generator. The generator recharges your battery. If the battery isn't being charged and you have had it checked and know it is in good shape and that all connections are clean and tight then the generator and regulator need to be checked and rebuilt if necessary. The problem you are having should never occur even with a generator if the other electrical components are in good shape and you have good wiring connections.
K2 is correct. Usually when your lights dim or an electrical glitch occurs, I immediately look at all of the ground connections. One of the tips I do when cleaning grounds so that there shiny and clean is to hit the assembled connection with a shot of clear spray paint. This helps to seal the connection and keep moisture from attacking the part. Corrosion is an electrical systems worst enemy. Also, I use Battery Tenders on both of my cars when not in use to keep the batteries fully charged. I've used them for years and swear by them. I purchased both of mine at Pep Boys for around $40.00 each. They are worth every penny. Good Luck!!
I was thinking in the same directions as K2 mentions. So I think that I'd better replace the battery. It's an old one anyway which was on the car when I bought it. Could probably use a new one.
If it doesn't help, i'll be checking all the ground connections to make sure they are in order.
I like to looks of the generator compared to the alt.
The Gen. looks more harmonic for an old engine bay......
I'll stay with it as long as possible...