When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello 99,
Definately cover the ignition. Maybe do the carburetor too. I try to use a good engine shampoo and use a light rinse to get it off instead of whaling on the engine with the water for too long. Happy scrubbing.
I don't like steam cleaning or pressure washing because the high velocity stream can get into places you don't want it to go.
IMO Gunk is still the best way to clean an engine. Spray it on a warm engine and let it sit for a few minutes. Use an old paint brush or toothbrush to work any heavily caked areas.
Rinse with a light spray from a garden hose. Cover the carb inlet with duct tape and remove the distributor cap and dry it before you start the engine.
Drive the car for at least a half hour afterwards so engine heat evaporates any moisture that gets into connectors, etc.
I've never been impressed with Simple Green for any cleaning task. Gunk is a petroleum solvent that is water soluble, so it leaves the engine very clean with no film that will attract dirt. Nothing in my experinec works better. I pick up a spray can or two when they go on sale for about a buck, but nowadays since I drive my cars so little I only do a complete engine bath every few years - just spot clean and dust in between.
For small engine cleaning jobs, such as a small oily film area, I just wash the area down with mineral spirits from a spray bottle.
On a full cleaning job after I rinse off the gunk I used soapy water and various brushes to wash the entire engine compartment.
The Lt-1 engines from 92 thru 96 had their distributors run off the front crankshaft LED and are mounted behind the water pump. These are notiorus for short circuiting and burning up once wet. Many a leaky water pump have taken the front distributor module with them. And at $200 or so, it gets very expensive in the interest of 'CLEAN'
Over the years, I have tried many things to clean an engine and I have found the following to be the best. First, I go to Home Depot and buy some cheap paint brushes and I usually grab some free paint stirrers. I also buy a gallon of their Zep orange cleaner liquid.
I do what Duke recommended first, but I try to find the "foamy" Gunk engine cleaner at Wal-Mart or an auto store. The foamy Gunk tends to stay where it is sprayed and is less runny. After covering the distributor and any other exposed electrical connections that look suspicious, I liberally spray the foamy Gunk all over the engine and use the brushes attached to the paint sticks to loosen up heavy grime. I try to let this set for a 1/2 to 1 hour or so. Then I wash it down with a showering spray from the garden hose. Another application of the Gunk may be helpful. Finally, I put the orange cleaner in a spray bottle and spray the whole engine, let set for a 1/2 hour or so and then shower down. The orange-based cleaners are great and keep things environmentally friendly. Smells good, too. Starting the engine now is a good idea to get rid of any latent or standing water on the engine. Use care around the alternator and fan belts as you could create a problem
My experience with Simple Green has been different than Duke's. I've found Simple Green to work much better than Gunk or any of the other old fashioned petroleum based engine cleaners. I've found Gunk to leave an oily film. In fact, Simple Green works too good! It gets it too clean. It takes the oily film off, causing steel to start to surface rust and aluminum to start to oxidize. Spray with WD-40 or something after cleaning metal with Simple Green.
As pathetic as it sounds I own a pressure cleaning equipment & Batttery business. The best way to do it is make sure the engine is cool. Turn the pressure DOWN on the pressure washer. The PSI should be around 500 and then turn the temperature UP. If your machine is catalog garbage your done because they aren't adjustable. Steam the engine WITHOUT chemical at this time. Chemical with steam is rendered useless. I'm assuming when you say "steam" you mean steam not just pressurized hot water. After the original steaming and subsequent drying check for places you missed. If the motor is a mess at this time you can apply a commercial grade degreaser that you purchased at your local small business owner. If you buy simple green or some other Lowe's/Home Depot junk it ain't gonna work and the result will depress you. I steam all of my toys and fleet vehicles in this manner and have never had an electrical/starting/computer or other problem.