Problem with Electrical system?? Help
Thread Starter
1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Problem with Electrical system?? Help
OK, I've got some type of electrical problem. Since I've gotten the car 18 months ago we've replaced the Voltage Regulator and Battery twice. It seems that on two occasion over the last 8 months, the car would not start. Would not even turn over. I'd jump the car, and drive it but it would eventually stop running and I've to pull off the road and get towed. It is like something is causing the battery to die. I do not leave the accessories on. I did note that the last time this happened last week, I had washed the car several days before. Several days latter I tried to start the car and nothing, nada. I've since charged the battery, but with in a day it loses it charge. Right now I have interior lights, but when I try and turn on the parking light, the interior lights dies. What is happening?? Help
Sorry I'm new and posted this yesterday but as a guest. Today I've joined the forum.
Help any ideas what is up??
Sorry I'm new and posted this yesterday but as a guest. Today I've joined the forum.
Help any ideas what is up??
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 7,106
Likes: 38
From: Newark DE
first thing to do is to check the alternator output.
you should be getting a 14.4v charging output from the alternator to the battery.
If you aren't that will cause the battery to not charge correctly and eventually die. if that's the case you can either get the existing alternator reapired or pick-up a new replacement alternator.
Check the output voltage and let us know what you find.
you should be getting a 14.4v charging output from the alternator to the battery.
If you aren't that will cause the battery to not charge correctly and eventually die. if that's the case you can either get the existing alternator reapired or pick-up a new replacement alternator.
Check the output voltage and let us know what you find.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 608
Likes: 4
From: houston, texas usa tx
When you are driving that car or when it is sitting does your ammeter volts guage stay to the left of line? It sounds like you have a severe drain. Electrical issues are not my strong point. But as an example the wires that went into my switch that opened my headlight buckets were old and burned to the extent that the hot wire was grounding out and casuing a drain. Wold not even open the lights. Until I replaced the wires the car wold lose the charge while driving and be dead the next mornng. You need to find te source of the drain with an ohmeter and also visually inspect the wires you can see. Good Luck as I hate electrical problems. The post about the alternator charging is also correct that it needs to be charging at those levels. You can check that with an ohmeter or take it by an auto parts store an they will check it for free.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
Sounds like two problems actually. One , that there is a drain, and two , it is not charging. The most common single thing that can cause both is the alternator. It probably has bad diodes which allows the drain, and is not charging as a result.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 534
From: Willowbrook IL
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16
Eddie,
Using a DVM (digital Volt/ohm meter) disconnect the battery at the neg. post, set the meter to measure amps and then connect one lead to the battery and the other lead to the neg. battery cable. Measure the current draw WITHOUT trying to start it. Anything more than a few milliamps indicates a short somewhere.
Begin removing one fuse at a time to isolate the shorted circuit.
If after removing each fuse and you still have a draw, discconect the big red wire at the aternator. My guess is the alternator has a short. It could also be that the voltage regulator has a problem.
Remove them both, if its is the original send them to John Pirkle for a rebuild/restoration. While they are out go to your FLAPS and get a cheap replacement alternator and a replacement voltage regulator.
Don
Using a DVM (digital Volt/ohm meter) disconnect the battery at the neg. post, set the meter to measure amps and then connect one lead to the battery and the other lead to the neg. battery cable. Measure the current draw WITHOUT trying to start it. Anything more than a few milliamps indicates a short somewhere.
Begin removing one fuse at a time to isolate the shorted circuit.
If after removing each fuse and you still have a draw, discconect the big red wire at the aternator. My guess is the alternator has a short. It could also be that the voltage regulator has a problem.
Remove them both, if its is the original send them to John Pirkle for a rebuild/restoration. While they are out go to your FLAPS and get a cheap replacement alternator and a replacement voltage regulator.
Don
Last edited by vetsvette2002; Sep 15, 2004 at 06:49 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,632
Likes: 14
From: Fountain Hills AZ
My `65 had the same symptoms years ago. Turned out that the regulator ground wire had separated from the connector at the regulator. The insulation looked fine and hid the separation. Ungrounded, the regulator forces the alternator into full charge which ruins both the alternator and the battery. By the time I realized I had a problem, the alternator no longer had much output and the battery was gone also. Upon replacing the alternator, the new one wanted to charge at 17+ all the time. As a test, I hooked a jumper from ground to the regulator case and bingo!, charge rate dropped to normal.
