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so how hard is it to replace the fuse box?? Mine is cruddy and the blades are rusted and falling out just want to make sure this isn't a wiring nightmare before i start to tear into it. It looked as if there are two blocks on the other side of the firewall that disconnect from that side so i can pull the box out....any tips, instructions would be very appreciated. might have to change my sig October is here and i am no where close to being done
ps check out this pic and loko at the sticker on the plate... just sad so sad
Sounds to me like it's time for at least a new dash harness. I don't beleive you can purchase just the box, and if you could it would be comparable to a good portion of the cost of a new harness. A new harness is Approx $300 fuse box included. Well worth the piece of mind.
I agree with the harness recommendation but if you decide to replace the fuse box only you can get it at www.corvettecentral.com. I got one for my '63 SW for around $100.
Got junk yards? Early 60s full size Chevies have the same fuse box - but the silk screened lettering is upside down for a Corvette.
The wiring is staked to the back of the box. You will have a tight workspace to solder in unless you remove the harness (as I did). I actually created a similar looking harness with correct color codes and heavier lines where needed to supply additional factory correct looking powertaps for pulse wipers, cruise control, auxiliary headlamps, electric fuel pump, stereo/reverb booster, and alarm systems. If I clip off the extra connectors, the harness will appear factory correct.
there is soldering involved with replacing the box??? i am done for then i never could solder to save my *** lol...if i went with the whole new harness is everything hooked up might?? be safer for me to go that way
there is soldering involved with replacing the box??? i am done for then i never could solder to save my *** lol...if i went with the whole new harness is everything hooked up might?? be safer for me to go that way
If you pull the gauge cluster, it isn't too difficult to replace the fuse box.
I assisted in replacing one, and we did some soldering. But, I think it is mostly spade connections.
Lectric Limited has new one's with the electrical hdw needed. If you are patient its not bad, did mine harness was perfect just fuse holders were cruddy wireint was perfect.
While you are there clean the connection between the engine harness and the connector and applky contact lub
Charlie F
66 Coupe
The harness lines were welded/staked to the tabs in back of the box. To get a secure connection I recomend solder - mechanical connections have a way of coming loose and/or getting corroded.
If you will pull the cluster, IMO replace the harness. The hard work is remove/replace cluster. The rest is easy.
I will be surprised if a vendor has mated the plug sockets on the back of the fuse box to a box with plastic fuses.
The wire gauge used depends on the function. 18-22AWG is OK for indicator and panel lamps, but you have to step up to 16 guage for accessories like wipers and to 14 or even 12 guage for headlamps and running lights. The best guide is the original wiring diagram. Wire gauges are specified there.
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