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My lesson was that if you are using a picker and pulling the engine and trans at the same time the radiator has to come out.
Also, if you are using a picker, the engine will move towards the front of the car as it lifts -- oh yeah - if you remove the exhaust manifolds it will make it much easier - I left mine on and scratched up the frame (lucky I didn't break a stud).
Also, if pullig the trans engine and trans, drain the oil and get ready for leakage ... or plug the tailshft. I had a big black puddle on my garage floor.
Pull as much off and out of the way as you can, removing the rad is pretty much necessary. Also, make sure the radio shielding around the motormounts is clear (I missed one bolt on mine and trashed one side).
All good advise.. Definately heed.. Remove as much as necessary ie manifolds,water pump, all shielding, dist, fuel pump, shoot I even pulled my intake and heads just b/c. As Dennis mentioned it's a hoss but it can be done by yourself.. Or at least I did... Oh you ask and I can't resist.. All that motor hanging over the front end will make you real nervous.. I know it did for me.. Going back in is worse.. Everything is new and shiny....... Dave..
get an engine leveller. Also get the largest engine puller you can get. I tried pulling an engine without a leveller and I was playing hockey in the engine compartment with the engine being the puck. I also had an old engine puller. When I noticed one of the wheels on the puller was 2 inches off the ground, with my engine 6 ft up, hanging over my 58 with a new paint job, I decided then that bigger is better. No need to take chances, and so I got a BIG engine puller with 4 wheels, not 3. No stress and much easier.
I second Allcoupedup's comments on being prepared for the engine to swing forward. It's especially pronounced if your lift is a little short when reaching in from the front. Also cinch your chains down fairly short to the block. You may get surprised by how high that lift has to go to get the engine to clear over the radiator support, especially if you have the suspension out and the front on stands, or you are in a low ceiling garage. Matter of fact, removing the radiator support first is not a bad idea if you are tearing the car all the way down. I once left too much chain length on mine with the front on stands and ended up having to drop the front of the car off the stands and nearly to the floor to swing the motor over the front. It got a little shaky.
Oh yep the radiator support great time to look at the bottom of it.. I knew I was changing mine out when I did it but I couldn't see the real damage until it was out... And to all those putting a Tremec back in with your new motor you will appreciate that extra little bit with the rad support out of the way... Dave..
Can't stress enough about using a balancer or leveler. You can angle or position that engine/trans where ever you need to to clear anything, without banging it into stuff!
With a balancer I got my time down to pulling SB's in one hour!
I am with the leveler and having a friend help. There is a lot of weight swinging around. Once the motor/tranny is clear, I usually push the car back and lower the motor onto a stand. Figured the car is a heck of a lot more stable than an engine/tran combo swinging around on a cherry picker. Even a cheap engine stand can have its moments when rolling on a driveway with a some cracks.
I agree with pushing the car back once the engine is up if possible. Much more stable to roll the car back than jerking the stand out from the car especially with one guy.