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Now that I got the Hydro-Lectric power top system working, I am moving on to rebuilding the soft top frame. My 1956 donor car came with a disassembled 56-58 design frame but the front arm #1 pieces are missing. The front arm #2 pieces are bent and have poorly done welding repairs. In working with Rich5962, it seems this is a common problem with the earlier design. Rather than try to acquire or recreate the early design front arm pieces I will convert my frame to the later single front arm with L-Bracket design.
I understand from Rich the rear bow is often too rusted to re-use. Mine seems to be original and OK; and the tack-strip although not useable, was crimped and not glued in. I was able to easily remove it with a multi-tool. Some of the 10-32 weld nuts need to be replaced.
For anyone not familiar with my project, it is a restomod so date correct originality is not important.
I will post updates and pictures as I progress.
Parts list from Corvette Central:
Disassembled frame from donor car:
Bent and poorly repaired front arm #2 pieces
Missing front arm #1 piece (photos from Rich5962):
Rear Bow with tack-strip removed:
Last edited by adamsocb; Apr 26, 2026 at 12:32 PM.
Reason: added missing front arm #1 photos
I got all of the old tack-strips out. After using diagonal cutters to remove all the remaining staples and tacks, I used a combination of a multi-tool and wood chisels.
Mostly multi-tool on the rear bow since the strip is behind such a deep roll/crimp of the sheet metal
1/2" and 1/4" wood chisels on bow #4 and the header
The thicker sections were easier to remove in layers rather than all at once
Parts of the strips came out in large pieces but much of them turned into very small pieces and dust. It makes a huge mess. With the material being 70+ years old who knows what toxic materials are in those strips. I recommend wearing an N95 dust mask and working outside.
The next step is to media blast everything.
Bow #4 before removal:
Bow #4 first layer removed:
Bow #4 removal complete:
Header before removal:
Header removal complete:
Top of header before, during after removal:
The mess...
At the top of this thread I said I was going to convert my frame to the later 59-62 one-piece front arms. Well, I ran into a snag. The aluminum front header bow of the 56-58 frame is not compatible with the later front arms and L-brackets. The bolt holes are at an angle for the early style attachment brace. They need to be perpendicular to work with the L-brackets. I can either buy a new front bow and continue with the conversion or keep the 56 bow and get the missing attachment braces. I was able to clean-up and repair the bent front arms I have and I found a set of the braces, so I think I will go that route vs a new front bow. I may look at modifying the front arms to prevent the common bending problem of the early design.
Good decision. I always used Weldwood contact cement on the flat bows.
BTW, as we conversed about the rear bow. Glad yours is good. I had a rusted one I experimented with, welding in patches, etc. Lots of work. It took forever to get the old tack strip out under the curled edges. I reverted to my air hammer. Then I had to bend the edges out to gt the strip in, then rebend it all downafterwards. They must've originally had a huge press to do them.
Doing the ends of the tack strips at the compound curves was tricky too. I had to cut multiple slices on the strips to get it to bend in there. I finished the bulk of it but need need to weld in new T-nuts and finish off with primer and gloss black paint.
Thankfully repros are available($$$$), but I don't like a few things about them.
Good decision. I always used Weldwood contact cement on the flat bows.
BTW, as we conversed about the rear bow. Glad yours is good. I had a rusted one I experimented with, welding in patches, etc. Lots of work. It took forever to get the old tack strip out under the curled edges. I reverted to my air hammer. Then I had to bend the edges out to gt the strip in, then rebend it all downafterwards. They must've originally had a huge press to do them.
Doing the ends of the tack strips at the compound curves was tricky too. I had to cut multiple slices on the strips to get it to bend in there. I finished the bulk of it but need need to weld in new T-nuts and finish off with primer and gloss black paint.
Thankfully repros are available($$$$), but I don't like a few things about them.
Hi Rich,
What is that tool called that you used to re-crimp the edge for the new tack strip?
I'm not near them but zooming in, the brand is Pexto.
I have a collection of unusual antique pliers that I've used in my work.
AI...
Pexto (The Peck, Stow & Wilcox Company) antique and vintage pliers are highly sought-after collectible tools known for their durable American craftsmanship. Primarily manufactured in the 19th and 20th centuries, classic Pexto models like the 8" Lineman's (e.g., Model 40-8) and slip-joint parrot-head pliers often sell for around \(\$10\) to \(\$40\) depending on their condition.
Last edited by rich5962; May 18, 2026 at 03:21 PM.
I'm not near them but zooming in, the brand is Pexto.
I have a collection of unusual antique pliers that I've used in my work.
AI...
Pexto (The Peck, Stow & Wilcox Company) antique and vintage pliers are highly sought-after collectible tools known for their durable American craftsmanship. Primarily manufactured in the 19th and 20th centuries, classic Pexto models like the 8" Lineman's (e.g., Model 40-8) and slip-joint parrot-head pliers often sell for around \(\$10\) to \(\$40\) depending on their condition.
Well, it's certainly rare. I can't find anything like that anywhere.
56-60 Soft Top Frame Rebuild
