To cut the plugs you cut back the ground electrode (the projecting metal tip) so that it covers no more than 1/2 of the plug. The plugs wont last that long but who cares. Also there are some aftermarket plugs that are already cut back, rapidfires I think.
Never tried it myself, supposed to be an old hotrod trick.

Another idea - get a shift kit for your auto transmission. Lets the transmission upshift quicker. Every little 100th of a second counts.

Let us know how you do on the next runs. Orlando, hmmm, run when you can now because in a month you will be either running in 92 degree temps and 90 percent humidity, or you will get rained out. With the heat you may very well not see 12's again until next November. I know, I grew up there.

 

Wish I could help you out more:
I've spent 23+ seasons with the solid-axle in the Z28 (1st the original 10-bolt, and now a 12-bolt/spool/C-clip eliminator/H-D axles, etc. ), so the I.R.S. is fairly new to me.....

I'm building a C3 to bracket-race with in my 'old-age', that'll either have the 10-bolt, or a 9" Ford, in it, with 4-link bars, for maximum durability and repeatability, too.

Sorry.

 

SpyderD - Yes I'm enjoying this weather! I hope it keeps up for a while (not the rain though). I know a couple of "old school" rodders and will seek their advice on how to cut the plugs. I'll also look into those rapifires. Thanks again for the great info. The tranny does have a shift kit in it. The previous owner did so.
Glensgages- No problemo! It's the thought that counts. Ithink I will go with the Royal Purple soon and hopefully the loops like VETDRMS suggested.
VETDRMS-I am going to preload tommorow as SpyderD earlier suggested to me. Thanks for the info on the beefier rear parts. Your right and I know I need that stuff for safety sake. I just need to find the money (without the wife knowing). Yes, please post what you run when you do!
C3 Stroker-Man what an improvement! That's a huge difference. I just don't think I will make that kind of improvement though. I don't think my car is capable of that. I would freak out if I saw that kind of improvement! I would then go buy lottery tix. But then again, I was not expecting to run in the 12's either.

 

Litevette: Does the track by chance have a scale? Would be a good time to figure out your race weight, and you can extrapolate (with some precision) your RWHP.
Good Luck!

 

2200 stall speed isn't a whole lot. Go with at least 3000 and sticky tires and you should see low 12's...

 

a very cheap h.p. mod is to recurve your distributor.just thought i'd throw that one out.

 

...Waiting for the race report

 

 

O.K. Not too happy here. I finished working so late that all I could do was pick the car up (it's been out at my sisters house) and run once. Still popping (cylinder down?). I launched higher (didn't look at rpms but was just below the point that it would start to inch forward), and I shifted at 6000. I ran 13 flat. I'm so p.o.'d I will not go again untill the stal is in and the car is running perfect. I hope to be needing slicks or drag radials after that.
Fast idle-Can that be done to an HEI? I am dumb in the distributer area.
GrandSport-I want to keep the street ability factor and also can't really afford (so the wife says) to be buying rear end parts. I know you drive your car around too. Do you run a 3000?
VETDRMS- I just found out that my brother in law has a set (4) of scales (he's a roundy round racer). They are on loan now but he should have them back soon. I'll get to find out then. Not sure if the track has em but I do want to check next time I'm out there.

 

litevette: There's always next time, no big deal. If your motor does not need a higher stall there is no point in going with one that is excessive. You'll end up running the motor beyond its power band which won't help ET. My torque converter flashes around 4200rpm, in 2nd and 3rd gear its closer to 5000. I drive it on the street all the time without any problems, I cruise down the highway at 3200-3500rpm with no heat buildup (160-180F), around town there is no real slip problems or heat issues. On a HOT day tranny temp can get around 210F if I'm beating on it. I am using B&M's stack plate racing cooler. Cruising at 35mph is ~1600-1800rpm, you can definitely feel how loose it is, but it doesn't hinder driveability at all.

Why not get it running right and have another go at it? If all your concerned about is getting another extra tenth here and there its going to get VERY frustrating. Try some different things, change your timing, tune the carb. Don't expect to run your best time every time (i've found it gets very dissapointing if you do!).

How about we figure out what that popping is, you said it is back-firing out one exhaust bank? What carburator and jet sizes/power valve are you running? What is your idle-vacuum and initial/total advance? Have you checked your plugs/wires?

Good Luck,

-Travis

 

VETDRMS- Yeah, I guess I can't possibly see an improvement or run the same every time. I need to take a chill pill as I'm new to this and still have much to learn.
The carb is a bone stock 600 cfm holley, so whatever power valve and jets those come with (insert blank stare) is what I'm running. I'm starting to get your point, I need to start studying more on ignition & fuel.
I'm pulling the plugs this weekend, and yes the popping is only coming from the exhaust on the passenger side.
As far as timing, I beleive it's at 16 initial.
It's nice to know you can cruise with the stall and still be o.k. I have the same tranny cooler as the aluminum radiator I bought didn't allow for tranny cooling. Me and my buddy will hopefully be able to get that stall in this weekend. I hope to run again next Wednesday night.

 

Sounds like the old Tecate,Mex strip where you ran down hill.

 

Play with that one a few different ways... the weight may help with your hooking up.. try it with varying fuel levels and see which provides the best.. you may be suprised. I won't be shocked if your times are better witrh more fuel in the car...merely due to traction.

 

The extra weight, over/between the drive-wheels, will offer better traction:
generally-speaking, if you can knock .1 off of your 60' time, your 1/4-mile ET will improve by .15-.20 (i.e.: almost DOUBLE your 60' improvement), and possibly off-set any additional weight you'd be dragging down the strip.

It is doubtful your 60' will improve that-much due to a full fuel-tank, but being topped-off will limit the chances of spinning, and give better data each run:
if your 60' times aren't consistent (with-in .02 from run-to-run), you'll have trouble deciding which modifications worked, and which ones didn't.....

 

Both times I ran I was almost empty. I'll try a 1/4 tank, then a half and so on. That would be amazing if I could knock some off just by running with more fuel (cheap mod).
Everything I've ever read and have done has been along the lines of running as light as possible. But, with the install this week of the stall, I might just need the added traction. Thanks because sometimes I need a little help to "think outside the box".